Theres a reason he sells parts and doesnt install them.

You need to affix the gasket to the block, i tried "the right stuff" this past weekend to do one and it cut the time in half as it's tacky enough to cure enough in a few hours to hold the weight of the gasket as you GENTLY position the oilpan and get your bolts started.

The only way your getting that gasket on without an adhesive is if the engine is on a stand upside down.

 

Clean FLAT surfaces and Very Minimal Sealer (If any!).. People are all Way overusing the sealers !!
Make sure both surfaces are clean and FLAT ! If the pan has been overtightened (most have!) Then it is Bent. Lay it flat on a flat floor and straighten it out with a small hammer. Determine the threads and find some studs (Cut off bolts work great) Thread them into the block at 4 - 5 spots so you can set the pan and gasket onto them.Then install the other bolts and tighten the bolts to the correct torque.Then remove the studs and replace with the normal bolts.

If you want to use a sealer use permatez gasket sealer, NOT rtv gasket MAKER ! The sealer will hold the gasket in place if you let it dry before installing it.

Blue Silicone Should Be ILLEGAL !

 

i was always told to never use rtv with a rubber gasket cause it will slip, from when it swells with oil

 

I usually clean both surfaces with brake cleaner, and let it sit overnight after installed. I use a VERY light coating of high tack gasket sealant to adhere the gasket. Installing on the block is the right way.

 

milmat has the right idea with the studs, I only ever use sealer on the corners (a dab about 1/2 the size of a pea between the caps and block) a quality gasket will not require sealer all the way around, and I swear by right stuff, you just need to let it cure before running the engine. Instead of studs I get the pan and gasket up there with four longer bolts, one on each corner, letting it hang and then working the pan up into position as I position the gasket using a dulled pick as an aide until I get it raised up enough to start my oil pan bolts. From there its just a matter of slowly snugging them up while watching your gasket to make sure it stays into position and torquing them down. Only time I ever had a leak was when it was discovered that the pan was fubar and I did'nt see it until after reinstall. Hope this helps.

 

I read a tech article a ways back stating to use chevy v8 valve cover studs. So give them a try.

 

i've done my oil pan gasket 3 times and the gasket always seemed loose over the rear main bearing cap. It looked loose like the picture in original post, but on the block side. I guess that is normal to have that much play?

 

True, don't use silicone with rubber ,cork or paper. A little on transitions or corners. I like using copper spray or interior fabric/ carpet spray glue, sometimes super glue. Silicone is used when you don't use a gasket, sometimes around water passages (older small block chevys and the like.)

 

On the rubber gasket I do not use RTV, only on the cork ones

 

the easiest way is to put the gasket on the block by fabricating 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 1/4 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver

 

just put those 4 bolts in the corners of the gasket and the pan slides right over top

 

I just got done doing this. According the the manual the ONLY places sealer should be used is on the corners of the radiuses that go around the crank. My trick for putting the oil pan back on is to put a bolt in each "corner" of the gasket by the crank and then gently and carefully position the oil pan and start the bolts. This way it hold the gasket in place for that groove and still allows for minor adjustments to the gasket as needed to get the rest of the bolts in. The trick though is to just START the bolts, don't even snug them up until you get all the bolts in.