Front of oil pan with gasket poking out. Not touching balancer even though it looks like it in this pic. Can see coolant leak made its way to bottom of balancer and drips from gasket. THINK it's coming from radiator bottom hose clamp. Yuk.


'96 Classic. While chasing a slow coolant leak I found my oil pan gasket is a mess. Poking out of front right behind balancer (not touching). I know getting pan in and out can be nightmare. Lots of obstacles in front. I am sure I can't do it with my limited tools and no way to lift front end enough (factory height). How long should it take for a competent mechanic with shop lift and correct tools to change it?
Pic shows how bad it needs it. Also can see where coolant leak is on bottom of balancer and drips from where the gasket is poking out. Would y'all drive it like this? Keeps great temp even in Alabama heat. Doesn't lose too much coolant, just adding a little at a time. I think I'm just gonna park it until I decide what to do just to be safe.
Thanks

 

for the coolant leak I would also check around the water pump it could be leaking there too. there is also a weep hole on the pump that will drip when it gets bad. as far as the pan gasket you might be able to get under there loosen the front of the pan and push the gasket back into place and snug up the bolts.

 

The oil pan gasket is cake. I replace mine in about 30 minutes with doing the rear main seal at the same time. Of course, I had the motor on a stand at the time, but, it's a simple job. The RMS is the bigger pain. Trying to get the top half of the seal out can be fun at times.

 

I'll check water pump. Thought about poking gasket back in like you said. Probably try that. Thanks.

 

If I could pull motor with my socket wrenches and assorted screwdrivers I'd be in heaven.lol. Completely new at this. Quick learner but lack many tools. Pretty sure can't get pan out. May tuck gasket in front if doable, after I get coolant leak fixed.

 

about a month ago i went through the same thing. it is the water pump. should change it soon. it is easy. i got everything new, not a rebuilt one, t-stat, gasket and a small tube of gasket set for under 50 bucks. i saved the coolant since it was changed last fall. and my oil pan gasket looked kinda weird also in the same spot. no big deal. as long as it is not leaking, dont mess with it.

 

Do check that weep hole on the bottom of the pump. As far as the gasket, I might clean all well and verify that it's leaking there before I did anything. Nice to have things clean to work on anyway.

 

The gasket appeared to be leaking to me. All you need to do both projects is a set of sockets. Drain the oil, remove the bolts (a million little ones) and drop the pan. Clean both surfaces, replace the gasket, throw a little rtv in the corners, and bolt it up.

Your working from your back. That's not always fun though.

Your leak doesn't appear to be terrible. You could let it ride if you wanted.

 

Oil, tyranny fluid and power steering fluid blow everywhere, so it looks like everything is leaking. Heck, oil from the oil filter adapter O ring might even end up, up there! You need to clean all well, then watch all right away to see what is leaking. Once road-speed wind gets to work, you can't tell where it came from.

 

Yep. Fix the water pump and clean the area up, then you can see if the oil pan is leaking or not. If it ain't broke...

 

Been busy. Changing water pump as soon as I can. Any info about trusted part brands and/or which to avoid. I'm guessing if the price seems too good to be true...it's painted Chinese Styrofoam!! lol

 

Make sure the PCV lines (1/8" black plastic "gang lines") on the drivers side of engine are free of blockage ( they all come off together )..remove and blow through each line..cut out blockage and repair with vaccum line or replace the PCV line package (over $100.00).. if blocked Crankcase will build so much pressure it will push out that seal or start leaking at rear main..if it's blocked, you can repair line, lossen pan, push seal back in place (RTV in seal corners) and retighten pan bolts to about 13-18lbs. ..Sometimes Rear Main Seal leaks can be repaired with no other work then fixing those PCV lines..It's magic..LOL

 

I used all Napa parts when working on my cooling system. I only use new (not re-manufactured) water pumps. When you do your water pump, put a thin layer of RTV on either side of the new gasket to ensure a tight seal. A lot of guys will say, "you don't need RTV; it didn't have it from the factory so it doesn't need it now." Well, we don't live in a perfect world, and our jeeps are getting old. So just put a thin layer on that gasket and you wont have to take it back off to fix that leaking paper gasket like I did. I think Permatex even makes a water pump specific RTV.

 

My oil pan gasket replacement was definitely not easy. Mine is a 91 and I believe it was factory. Pan didn't want to come off. Actually bent the lip of the pan before it finally broke (after pounding with a mallet - had to use a pry bar). Bent it back the best I could using my vice. Put RTV on both sides in that area. Still in the process of installing it but one bolt hole is just slightly off; the one hole which I used the plastic guide rod which came with the Felpro rubber gasket kit.

Since I was already there, I replaced the rear main seal. I also learned a lesson; don't bend the upper seal. It will ruin the seal and set you back another $15. I used dish liquid and an eye dropper. Squirted dish liquid in first then dipped the seal in it. Made sure the seal didn't bend away from shaft while pushing or rubber will peel off of metal rod in the seal.

 

yes, what i did also, same stuff, no problems what so ever with it. it was suprisingly cheap for the parts also. a new one, not rebuild either. think there was like a 4 dollar difference in price between them. i left the heater hose off the t-stat housing while filling to bleed the air out of the block. simple job to do.