Oil pan gasket mess!
08-15-2015, 07:38 PM
#16
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Make sure the PCV lines (1/8" black plastic "gang lines") on the drivers side of engine are free of blockage ( they all come off together )..remove and blow through each line..cut out blockage and repair with vaccum line or replace the PCV line package (over $100.00).. if blocked Crankcase will build so much pressure it will push out that seal or start leaking at rear main..if it's blocked, you can repair line, lossen pan, push seal back in place (RTV in seal corners) and retighten pan bolts to about 13-18lbs. ..Sometimes Rear Main Seal leaks can be repaired with no other work then fixing those PCV lines..It's magic..LOL
Any more info,pics?
08-16-2015, 08:28 AM
#17
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Location: North Ga.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yes, what i did also, same stuff, no problems what so ever with it. it was suprisingly cheap for the parts also. a new one, not rebuild either. think there was like a 4 dollar difference in price between them. i left the heater hose off the t-stat housing while filling to bleed the air out of the block. simple job to do.
08-16-2015, 08:47 AM
#18
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
One of my jobs was working near ATL. for Sandy Springs Garage...(one of the top shops in the South..as big as, and run like a dealership..I was on the american.car team) where I would do Jeep pan gaskets 4-8 times a week...."clogged PCV systems" (on all models) were very common and caused 85% of the pan & seal leaks I ran across...Loved working there, even if I had to spend 3-4 hours a day driving back and forth..they finally gave me no choice..move down to ATL. or leave..I left, I'm no "flatlander" Mtn. Boy to the bone...LOL
08-16-2015, 01:20 PM
#19
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My oil pan gasket replacement was definitely not easy. Mine is a 91 and I believe it was factory. Pan didn't want to come off. Actually bent the lip of the pan before it finally broke (after pounding with a mallet - had to use a pry bar). Bent it back the best I could using my vice. Put RTV on both sides in that area. Still in the process of installing it but one bolt hole is just slightly off; the one hole which I used the plastic guide rod which came with the Felpro rubber gasket kit.
Since I was already there, I replaced the rear main seal. I also learned a lesson; don't bend the upper seal. It will ruin the seal and set you back another $15. I used dish liquid and an eye dropper. Squirted dish liquid in first then dipped the seal in it. Made sure the seal didn't bend away from shaft while pushing or rubber will peel off of metal rod in the seal.
Since I was already there, I replaced the rear main seal. I also learned a lesson; don't bend the upper seal. It will ruin the seal and set you back another $15. I used dish liquid and an eye dropper. Squirted dish liquid in first then dipped the seal in it. Made sure the seal didn't bend away from shaft while pushing or rubber will peel off of metal rod in the seal.
08-17-2015, 01:21 AM
#20
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looking at water pumps now. Assuming '96 Classic 4.0L is standard flow pump? Haven't removed it yet to see. Also, if someone has short explanation why there is standard and reverse flows I would like to know just for general knowledge. Looks like belt configuration is a determiner?
08-17-2015, 04:38 AM
#21
Old fart with a wrench
Yup, that's it. serp belt runs on the bottom of the pulley so the pump spins in reverse. V-belt runs on top of pulley.
08-18-2015, 08:23 PM
#22
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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