AlSpeciale

So I just finished replacing rear main seal, oil pan, and oil pump. I disconnected the CPS and tried starting the engine, but now oil pressure is showing up. Should I try starting the car with the CPS plugged in? I was also messing with the distributer earlier because I was going to try and prime the pump with a drill, but I couldn't get the distributer shaft off.

Steve Hayes

"Now" or "No" oil pressure?

4x4jeepmanthing

pull the distributor and prime the pump with a drill and flat screw driver end. theres only one bolt holding the distributor hold down, 13mm/1/2" i think. mark your rotor position and pump or youll have to reset TDC.
use the drill until you feel resistance from the pump, youll know.

AlSpeciale

no oil pressure

AlSpeciale

I cant get the bolt for the distributer off. Any recommendations?

AlSpeciale

My joy that I had when I bought this car is slowly dwindling away. I'm trying to prime my oil pump after a week long battle with rear main seal + oil pan gasket replacement, and I can not get the distributer bolt off. Not only is it very tight, it's in a spot where you can't get leverage with a wrench. Who would put a bolt there? How the hell do I get this thing off? Even the swivel wrench isn't working. Tried the wrench with a hammer. The bolt is beginning to dull. It doesn't help that some ******* put the oil filter on there super tight, so I can't even remove that to get good leverage on the distributer bold. Likewise, I can't remove the distributer to get good leverage to remove the oil filter!!!!!!!!

97grand4.0

I'd remove the oil filter first, your main problem is not to strip out that dizzy bolt. Then work on the bolt. Stuck filters are stuck until they aren't. A good filter wrench and patience will do it. I never heard of pulling a dizzy to get at the oil filter and don't recommend it.
If not there's always the nuclear option, drive a screwdriver through it but don't hit the screw base threads. And or make a hole in it and tap the hole with a steel hammer and a long punch to unscrew it.

97grand4.0

Try a 6 point socket or wrench.

AlSpeciale

been trying the wrench. Its impossible to get a socket in there

AlSpeciale

should the screw driver go through both sides of the can?

97grand4.0

Yep, for sure.

97grand4.0

Use the biggest driver that space allows. I have used tire irons. And make sure when you drive it through, to be at an angle where you can get the best turn possible on it. Tapping is better than brute force btw. More likely repeated taps will loosen it. Use a combination of the two. Spray blaster can't hurt either around the base. This trick is the oldest in the book. Also you want to be as close to the base as you can , without hitting the threaded part from the engine inside.
Did you try your best with the slip type filter wrench? I have used them with a cheater pipe, again, you want to be around the base of the filter or it will crush. Even if it crushes you can still use the slip type wrench.

97grand4.0

Put some heat on it with a propane torch. No reason you can't put a LOT of heat on it.

dave1123

Heat it, then quench it with penetrating oil. The heat will draw the stuff right into the threads as it cools.

dave1123

The worst one I ever ran across was one that I had to cut the entire can off of and bend the flange to release it. I think it was installed with an impact wrench!