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Oil Pressure Sending Unit leak; Hoe, Why, Function, Should I?

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Old 05-02-2015 | 10:23 AM
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georgiasouthernGOEAGLES!'s Avatar
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Default Oil Pressure Sending Unit leak; Hoe, Why, Function, Should I?

Let me Preface this post with the statement that this is my first forum post (Ever, for anythiing on the internet, not just car/jeep stuff) If I am in the wrong section please help me by yelling at me to fix my junk!

I have a pretty heavy leak From the Oil pressure sending unit. The is a piece that has a wire runnign from it that clips into the sending unit. On this piece there is a rubber stopper that a wire runs out of every time i turn the engine over, this piece pops out and starts to leak in a constant stream as if you were to barely turn on a sink.

I bought a new duralast Sending unit for 35 dollars, but I am having a lot of trouble getting the old one unscrewed and out, I do not want to force it and break it, but everytime I attempt to remove it it feels very much like I'm going to snap something.. do something stupid.. etc. I am concerned though, this sending unit does not include the "sensor" (for lack of a better word because I dont know what the clipped in wire connected piece is called). That sensor is what seams to be leaking.

I have three questions:

1. Is there a way to do this that is simpler or more effective than simply using a crescent wrench and turn the unit left till it pops and unscrews?

2. Is the sensore/clipped in piece to the sending unit what really needs to be replaced? or how can I tell if this is so?

3. Do I even need the entire assembly? I don't use that gauge and don't care to have it functioning or inoperable, I just don't want to have to add a quart of oil every 45 minutes of operating. This is the last leak I have (knock on wood) to fix. Is it possible to just remove the old unit and find a screw that is the same size and put it in place where the old unit screwed in? or will this cause a rough run of some sort? I guess Im wondering if this part only serves to run the gauge or if it has a part to play in some other function.

Thank you for your time.

-Matt

Last edited by georgiasouthernGOEAGLES!; 05-02-2015 at 10:28 AM.
Old 05-02-2015 | 03:34 PM
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extrashaky's Avatar
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Always remember to tell us year/model/engine of your vehicle. The sending units are not the same for all years.

Originally Posted by georgiasouthernGOEAGLES!
3. Do I even need the entire assembly? I don't use that gauge and don't care to have it functioning or inoperable, I just don't want to have to add a quart of oil every 45 minutes of operating.
Yes, you need it, and you should be using it. If you don't have it and your engine loses oil pressure, how would you know to shut it down before a catastrophic failure?
Old 05-02-2015 | 03:36 PM
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georgiasouthernGOEAGLES!'s Avatar
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Default My apologies!

It is a 1996 jeep cherokee country, 4.0, automatic transmission, 242 transfer case, dana 35 rear axle. I don't really know any other information than that.
Old 05-02-2015 | 03:48 PM
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You will need the whole assembly. There is a socket for them that grabs the odd shaped "head" and cuts back on the possibility of breakage. They run around $6 to $8 at most parts stores.

If you do break it off, it isn't too bad to get the stub, but you'll need an offset E-Z out, not the tapered variety to get it out of there.

It is a good idea to have it functioning, as oil pressure is part of your OBD package and it might get the computer uppity.

Last edited by El_Guapo; 05-02-2015 at 03:51 PM.
Old 05-02-2015 | 04:40 PM
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If you have the kind of sender that has flat places to put a wrench, it will most likely be a 1-1/16". There are special deep sockets that will fit over it, but you can just use a 1-1/16" open end wrench or an adjustable wrench. Just make sure you wrench on the metal part and not on the plastic, because the plastic will break right off. If you have the kind of sender that doesn't have the flat faces, you'll need to just use a pair of pliers on the metal part.

The part that goes into the block is all metal, so it shouldn't break. It's probably just stuck in there with the sealant that was used when it was installed. In fact, if you're feeling it "give" a little, it may be the sealant sticking rather than the sensor twisting.
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