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Oil pump failure ..What should I look over while my pan is off?

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Old 10-17-2013, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by belvedere
NAPA oil pumps are simply relabeled Sealed Power, which is a well known brand.
Yes this is true.
And "sealed power" is pure crap. I will upload a video when I get a chance comparing the sealed power brand with the OEM pump.
Majority of the difference was in the quality of the metals. Also the "sealed power" brand was more than double the weight. Guessing its housing cast process is cheaper with less quality control, by the looks of it.

Originally Posted by bigbadon
Agree. The pump was probably turning intermittently.
Think about the contact between the oil pump drive, and the oil pump.
There was little to none. How do you figure the shaft was being turned adequately?

What actually happened (after I disassembled the oil pump to find out) was the shaft running the gear inside was bent. Which means there was HUGE resistance to turn. Add to that the oil pump was only getting 1/2 of the contact it would usually get. Also, it was not sandwiched in the middle of the tongs as it should of been.

Backing this idea up, The OPD was wobbling around insanely. I wish I would of took a video of that.
It wobbled so much that it broke off the OPD retaining bolt in the engine block.
This makes me think the OPD was barely contacting the pump at all since there was such a resistance to turn (in addition to the ridiculous wobble)
Beats me how it was bent. I will eventually get pictures up. I work long hours and have little time to post on here.

But about the no oil running an engine thats insane! I cant believe that haha But I kind of figured there would be lubrication but I wasnt sure as to how much.

Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Sometimes rod bearings are the first to go.
I would think this too considering they take the most stress IMO.

Originally Posted by DFlintstone
You might Google "plastagauge" .....also the bearing should be stamped on the back after you pop it out. If the crank had been turned it might say .10 for example. (or Std). Or .60
Good info on the bearing cap stuff. I know what plasti-gauge is haha Just didnt have the time to check all of this. Pump came in within one day and I needed a car to drive to work everyday.

Originally Posted by s346k
if you didn't hear any knocking odds are it's ok. I'd check the bearings just to be sure. I had the sane issue with a melling pump I put in an old truck. however, that old sbc valvetrain let me know it had no oil pressure.
This is good to hear lol. I wish I would of checked everything over more carefully but I didnt have the time off I had expected.

Originally Posted by CCKen
With the pump removed, check the condition of the oil pump drive gear on the camshaft. If it's badly worn out the camshaft needs to be replaced.
It is very badly worn, the teeth ends look like they are sharp.
I am going to bring this up to Napa and see what they can do for me. Considering it was their part that failed.

Originally Posted by CCKen
If you pull connecting rod caps and see that the bearings/crank journals are worn, the cam bearings are probably trashed as well. The engine needs to be pulled to change all the cam bearings.
This was also my first thought. Considering the huge stress that was put on the cam, By the off-center OPD shaft creating a huge strain on the cam. As if it was pushing it towards the rods.

Originally Posted by CCKen
Check the piston skirts in the full down position for scuff marks in line with the piston pins. If the skirts are scuffed on both sides of the pistons, the piston in the pin area is probably going to fail. Scuffing of the pistons in this area is usually caused by a lean running (hot piston) condition.
I did look at the skirts as well as I could, And I do not recall them being scuffed badly. But then again I was mostly checking for hairline cracks.

Originally Posted by CCKen
Check the cam bearings for bearing liner extruding out.
I didnt see any of that, But I wouldnt doubt there was damage done to the bearings.

Originally Posted by CCKen
If all of the above is okay, with the piston full down, see if you can fit a .003 feeler gauge between the piston skirt and the cylinder bore. If it fits, the piston to bore clearance is excessive.
I was not able to check this due to needing the car the next day (staying up until 3am to get the pump done).

But I did notice what seemed like excessive pressure getting into the crankcase.
While rotating the motor to #1 TDC with the pan off, I could hear the compression passing the piston that was in compression and entering the crankcase.
I am not sure if this is normal. But I was shocked that I was able to hear the compression rotating the motor only by hand. (it was alot of pressure and I will be checking my oil for blow by)
I understand this is an almost 200k motor but would the rings be that worn?

Originally Posted by cruiser54
On some of the late model blocks like 2000 and up, there is a surface where the oil pump mounts that is not machined like the earlier models.
Hence, an oil pump seems as if it's tight when in fact it is not seated well and doesn't seal to the block. The other problem is that the pump sets cocked and breaks the tangs on the drive.
This is interesting information I never knew about.
Funny you mention this, because my original OPD had some unusual wear on the gear. And I was wondering to myself why this could of happened.

I actually broke a bolt off in the block where the oil pump mounts the first time around (due to a faulty torque wrench). Fun getting that bolt out.
This time I am pretty sure the pump sealed well. I was very careful to take my time and check everything twice over.

Can you explain further on how the pump gets cocked?
Would that be because of the improper seating of the pump on the block?
Old 10-17-2013, 08:49 PM
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But thanks everyone for all your help.
I will repost here if/when there is further damage from the possible oiling issues.

But I think reading all of this and hearing all of your opinions have calmed me down alot. In terms of my motor life at least haha
Old 10-17-2013, 08:49 PM
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The machined area on the block isn't machined big enough for the oil pump to seat. It's held away from the block by a rough casting.
Old 10-17-2013, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
The machined area on the block isn't machined big enough for the oil pump to seat. It's held away from the block by a rough casting.
Funny because I remember starring at the surface where the oil pump mounts to the block. And It appeared (to me at least) very flat.

But I did notice the excessive gear wear on my original OPD. Even thought that wasnt the point of failure on that one.
Old 10-17-2013, 09:02 PM
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Look to see if the housing of the pump interferes with any rough castings.
Old 10-18-2013, 06:56 AM
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Check this out:


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/1...-help-1695785/
Old 10-18-2013, 07:02 AM
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common sense tells me the engine must have getting SOME lubrication if there were no noise. Before you go to far with $$$ send a oil sample to Blackstone.....If there was wear it will show up in the report. Like I said the pump was probably turning intermittently enough to move some oil.
Old 10-18-2013, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bigbadon
common sense tells me the engine must have getting SOME lubrication if there were no noise. Before you go to far with $$$ send a oil sample to Blackstone.....If there was wear it will show up in the report. Like I said the pump was probably turning intermittently enough to move some oil.
Yes. Like it was engaged but cocked where it mounts to the block......
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