AlSpeciale

yeah. Please. I'm a beginner

dave1123

Seeing as how I've been charged with adding to the valve lash debacle, I'd like to defend myself by saying you really only have to check the lash if major cuts have been taken on the head to take out a warp or damage from flame cutting with a blown gasket. Also, if you regrind the valves yourself and don't check assembled height, you might need to adjust this. FOR THE MOST PART, if using stock parts that haven't been modified heavily, you shouldn't worry about it.

97grand4.0

I just heard from TJ805, who you may remember was looking for help with his 4.0 stroker when he spun it up and had a few gushing lifters and the rest were dry. He put in a new cam and comp cams told him to use .010 oversize pushrods. He pulled the head and replaced the lifters, this time setting up the preload on each, and had to add .090 in stacked shims to some pedestals.
He got it going a half hour ago and reports that this time all are oiling perfectly. He thanked me for the help profusely.
Now I know how Trump must feel. Heh!
True, Dave, if nothing ever changed in the engine, you got all the pushrods back in the exact order the factory put them in, same size head gasket, no wear on the valve train, etc,..it might work ok.
If not, you won't mind pulling the head again because our lifters are SO easy to change, and then setting the preload after you flush the ground metal outta the crankcase.

AlSpeciale

Does the oil pump pick up tube need to be welded into the pump? Or simply stuck in there?

tech

Most oil pump pick up tubes press in but some people like to tack weld them to help it not come off , I never welded any of the pumps I installed but I always used a new pick up . But it up to you if you want tack weld it .

AlSpeciale

thanks. do I need a special tool to get the pick up tube in?