I know converting to an open loop has been discussed many times before. After reading many threads, It was time to dive in.
I also wanted space to put my vacuum bottle so I can build a new bumper.
The PO already installed a 94 xj radiator but did not plum the burp tank. He also wired the electric fan to a switch. But he did not remove any of the old lines.

Burp tank line ran from radiator overflow.

 

Remove burp tank and upper hose.
I used pip cutter to cut the pipe just after vacuum assist. I could also remove it altogether but I thought I would leave it.

 

I bought around 5' of hose. $6.10 with hose clamps.
I heated up a 1/2 wrench with a propane torch to open up the ends of the tubing to mate to the flanged ends. Buying pre made ends may be easier. I might opt for that in the future.
Unbolted the vacuum bottle from the bumper and drilled to holes on the flat area above the fire wall. It just fits under the hood and really helps get rid of extra lines.
I had the burp tank and just strapped to the old hole from the old mounting plate.

 

what is it you are trying to accomplish? running open loop only is normally done with an ecu you can tune. you simply tune the map to a decent A/F the whole way up. you also would need to retune every few months as changes in weather will effect mpg and how it drives. closed loop means part throttle is using the o2 and WOT is still open loop. on a street car, unless the cams are so big or injectors are so large that it simply won't idle in closed loop you always are better off keeping closed loop rather than deleting.

this is more of a question i'm use to seeing with turbo cars, not cherokees

 

My goal was to update to a more current setup. The PO put a new radiator in it but did not run run the over flow hose. I wanted to correct this.

 

I think the OP is refering to open style cooling system vs closed style.....nothing to do air/fuel ratios and/or open/closed loop.

The only concern I would have with the location of the new recovery bottle is it might need to be a little higher.....the bottle should be the same level as the top of the rad and the tube between the rad and bottle needs to be fairly level. Also, the bottle absolutely must be vented and fill/empty from the bottom.

 

I have played with the bottle few times. I really don't like the after market bottle as the plastic looks a little light. Not very secure mounting. It does fill, empty from the bottom right plug. (it has the option of multi placement.
I now have my eye out for a newer style stock bottle. I will try to raise it, and also build a better mounting bracket.

 

I have some other things to update woody. My next task will be to tackle the rough idle.

 

As Djb is saying, the cooling system (that is changed from a closed), now as it cools and the system makes a little vacuum, it needs to draw back past the check valve in the cap from the over flow res.. The lower it is the harder it will need to suck. Anything with a line in, or at the bottom will work. Needs a top though or the mice will use it for a hot tub!

"Closed Loop" might be when the engine warms up enough to start using the 02 sensor to help with the fuel mix. On a renix around 160* anyway.