BimmerJeeper

The Titanic would probably be easier to work on.

94XjSport94

Merlin's beard!

What are you spending $500 on at HF? You'll be perfectly fine with the 6 ton ones.

Please tell my why you continue to put money and time in this Jeep. This is my life question.

jpz

Because he doesn't have a pry bar.

DougyFresh

3 ton stands are really only good for rotating tires, and even that is pushing it. I have a set, and they literally are ONLY used for tire rotations and I will NEVER get under a vehicle that is supported only by them. my 6 ton stands will allow me to get underneath and do whatever I want or need to do.

BimmerJeeper

Ok, I assumed my 2-tons were fine, but I have never had to raise the XJ yet.
I don't run a lift kit, and there is plenty of room under there.
The 2nd shock was the first time it was really cramped.
But jackstands aren't the answer since they would get in the way of where I can lay down.

I will gladly buy new jackstands, b/c these are old and rusty anyway.
I will stick to the 6-ton for $50.
It seems the 12-ton is really huge. It will probably get in the way.

This might be a dumb question, but what is the point of buying taller jackstands if you can't sit up underneath the car?
I need 36" to sit up. You'll be on your back anyway, and the car will just be farther from you.

Is there much advantage of using 24" tall jackstands? When will they be better than my smaller 2-ton ones? I can see it being useful when you're putting a breaker bar and the ground is getting in the way...
I guess the situation with the shock would allow you to move your arms and stuff since the underside is not right in your face. So, maybe a few more inches of clearance can't hurt.

Anything else?

JWheeler

Good golly that is a lot of rust. Does the whole jeep look like that?

94XjSport94

More power to you if you love it, just don't complain

I can set my Jeep up higher on the larger stands. Helps for axle swaps, front or rear axle droop, holding parts up to it, taking tires off, gear work, pulling shafts, whatever really. And I only have 3 ton ones and cinder blocks. I need some 6 ton ones...

I have never wanted to sit under my jeep. I can do everything in the upward facing dog yoga position.

BimmerJeeper

No, the exterior is fine. While the rust does make working on this Jeep a hassle, it has made me learn a lot more about auto mechanics, and it has made me develop a much more comprehensive tool collection. I would not have learned that from working on import cars, which are a breeze, in comparison. After this XJ, all others cars will feel like a breeze. "What, you just remove a bolt and it actually just comes right out? That's not even real automotive work!!"

Rogue4x4

This. Only reason I have 12 tons is for axle drops, just makes it easier. 6 tons do the job just fine. On a side note: lose the cinder blocks, man, that's just asking for trouble if you ask me. I've known more than one person that has had blocks crumble and had the car drop on them, and not all of them have lived.

salad

6-ton stands under the frame, yank the tires off and let the axle droop. Plenty of room. Passenger side I found easiest since it was further from the gas tank and there weren't any lines going across the access hole in the cross member

jake92

Have you ever worked on a Honda? Guess not.

Bimmer why must you **** up something so simple. I want an answer because I'm a "professional automotive technician blah,blah, blah" and shocks are such a small deal. It's not like an Explorer Sport Trac where there is virtually no room to access the top bolts and guess what? Those take 30 minutes max a side for a first timer!

Come on yoga buddy, maybe get the girls to help you? They would probably have it done before you finished examining.

XJriot

Good penetrating lubricant + a blow torch is all I use on a stuck bolt. If the lube doesn't work then the torch will. Yellow bottle, MAPpro, is better than the blue bottle since it burns hotter. **** lasts forever too. I've had the same bottle for like 5 years now.

9 times out of 10 I use a normal 12" 1/2" drive HD ratchet with a 12pt socket. Keep tension on the ratchet with your weight so it doesn't bounce then use a BFH to slowly break the thread loose by using moderate swings. Don't go ape**** with the hammer since youre not trying to break it loose in one swing or you have a higher chance of snapping the bolt. Just slowly work it out by using lube, heat and a hammer. You can also tap the front and back of the bolt with the hammer while the bolt is hot to help break things up a bit.

Best penetrating lube wont be found in the stores either. Industrial strength is the way to go so order some from an industrial supplier like MSC or Grainger.

Good luck and stop being such a quitter when something goes wrong. You'll encounter snags but the only way you're going to learn is by evaluating the situation and brainstorming some ideas to try. If you just give up and run to the forums you'll never learn anything. You might accomplish the task at hand but chances are you're still as clueless as you were at the start.