overheating after flush and new coolant
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Your cooling system could very well have rust in it if overheated or neglected. Common problem with the cast iron block. I have a '98 that was not overheating but had a very dirty and neglected cooling system from the PO. Light brown sludge in radiator filler neck and in the overflow reservoir. Took multiple hose flushes as well as drain and fills with just distilled water before it came clean. Flush the heater core separate from the radiator and block. I did not attempt to remove the block drain plugs.
Since I have a dummy light for overheating, what is the standard operating temperature for the XJ's with 4.0 engines? 210 or 215? Does anyone know what temperature mine is getting at when the dummy light goes on?
#17
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
Posts: 3,700
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
So there must be life on this planet. Someone finally saw the question about block drain plugs.
Since I have a dummy light for overheating, what is the standard operating temperature for the XJ's with 4.0 engines? 210 or 215? Does anyone know what temperature mine is getting at when the dummy light goes on?
Since I have a dummy light for overheating, what is the standard operating temperature for the XJ's with 4.0 engines? 210 or 215? Does anyone know what temperature mine is getting at when the dummy light goes on?
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have heard that too. I have seen on here that many people have switched from dummy to gauges and have heard that its a direct swap. So I wont have to get different senders and run wires either? My only problem is that the gauge cluster that I bought has 177k miles and mine only has about 155k. Do you know if I can tear into the cluster and adjust the odometer myself? I know the ramifications but what do you think?
#19
CF Veteran
You'll need two senders meant specifically for gauge clusters. The oil sender and the temp gauge sender which is located at the back of the head on the drivers side.
As far as the mileage difference my gauge cluster reads 40K miles more than the light cluster did. I'd not mess with the mileage difference.
As far as the mileage difference my gauge cluster reads 40K miles more than the light cluster did. I'd not mess with the mileage difference.
#20
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Most folks leave the ODO - it is physically possible to open the cluster (it's not legal) and I saw at least 1 post where a guy broke the little electric motor that spins the numbers. I've heard that a speed shop or collision repair shop can do the ODO adjustment and you'd still be legal if your state cares about the mismatch. I think since you'd be going from low to high it wouldn't even matter. On mine I went from 295k on the base to 133k on the gauges - but my title was already an "inaccurate ODO" one due to the PO swapping the engine. I just noted the orig and new mileage - I won't be selling my XJ in any "normal" type sale - "from my cold dead hands" and all that.
You do need the gauge style Oil and Temp sending units. They are a direct swap for the ones you have in there now. In other words, same threads/same connectors. I used the BWD brand (Advance and Pep boys) and have had zero problems with them.
You do need the gauge style Oil and Temp sending units. They are a direct swap for the ones you have in there now. In other words, same threads/same connectors. I used the BWD brand (Advance and Pep boys) and have had zero problems with them.
#22
CF Veteran
That's what I was thinking. I have a 98 with the light and I have a spare cluster with gauges but mine is at 163k and the spare is 227k. I would rather keep it original and I like the idea of having some aftermarket gauges.
Only thing I haven't decided yet is where to install the sensor. Not sure about installing a T where the factory one is in the thermostat housing. I'm sure it would be fine but there is always the risk of the factory sensor not reading as accurately as it would if it were directly on the flow of coolant. There's always the ones that can be installed into a hose. Or maybe even drilling and tapping a second hole in the thermostat housing.
Only thing I haven't decided yet is where to install the sensor. Not sure about installing a T where the factory one is in the thermostat housing. I'm sure it would be fine but there is always the risk of the factory sensor not reading as accurately as it would if it were directly on the flow of coolant. There's always the ones that can be installed into a hose. Or maybe even drilling and tapping a second hole in the thermostat housing.
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So there must be life on this planet. Someone finally saw the question about block drain plugs.
Since I have a dummy light for overheating, what is the standard operating temperature for the XJ's with 4.0 engines? 210 or 215? Does anyone know what temperature mine is getting at when the dummy light goes on?
Since I have a dummy light for overheating, what is the standard operating temperature for the XJ's with 4.0 engines? 210 or 215? Does anyone know what temperature mine is getting at when the dummy light goes on?
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Today, I drove about 24 miles round trip and on the way I had no problems. But on my return it overheated and my idiot light came on. So I killed it, then when I started it back up it sounded like it burped and I turned on the heater the light went off and I drove it home. Upon further inspection my radiator cap seemed loose and I noticed a brown gunky mess. I removed the cap and saw brown goop, rust colored but no rust as this was like I said goop kind of like paste.
Other than flushing it several times and putting in new coolant, what's going to stop this from happening again? It just keeps happening over and over.
Other than flushing it several times and putting in new coolant, what's going to stop this from happening again? It just keeps happening over and over.
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