Yea sorry i didn't get that at first sorry been was a long day yesterday lol.

But in other news earlier this week i had a tranny line that i missed blow off i noticed it quick i only lost about 2 quarts but the damage was done i lost the tranny tonight on my way home from college.

 

You sure it's fried? I ran my tranny near bone-dry while towing a boat, to the point where it was locking and unlocking in 3rd, and I still got at least 30k more miles out of it.

-E

 

sorry if i missed it....tmi.....any cel's? don't see where you've checked the temp sensor (not the dash guage...the sensor on your water pump - it's what kicks in to tell the computer to turn on electric fan, etc.)?!?!? you need to check your voltages/resistance at the sensor and path to ground....remove sensor and check resistance in hot/cold water....from what you have described it seems like all else is in order! good luck!

fyi... Temp sensor diagnostics....

"Basically - To test, use a high impedance volt-ohmmeter. Resistance should be less than 1000 ohms with a WARM engine (examples = 212* would be about 185 ohms, 160* would be about 450 ohms, 100* (not warm enough) would be 1,600 ohms) - this sensor functions by providing a resistance-to-ground circuit that the computer (ECU) uses to determine how much fuel the engine requires (The hotter the coolant - the lower the resistance.) The resistance of the sensor is read by the ECU which in turn adjusts the air/fuel ratio as close to 14.7:1 as possible. When a coolant temperature sensor fails (open circuit / no continuity) the high / infinite resisitance will cause the ECU to falsely read the max low temperature of -40 degrees F. The ECU then tells the injectors to enriche the fuel mixture because it thinks the temp is really cold when it really isn't. A short to ground would cause a 'no-resistance' fault causing the ECU to think the coolant air temperature was extremely hot and lean out the fuel mix.".... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm