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Overheating issue WTH?!?!?!

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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:57 PM
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Default Overheating issue WTH?!?!?!

Ok so my truck was running fine (temp wise) but the water pump was a bit weak so I decided to change the water pump for a new one (not reman) at the same time I changed the thermostat to a 180*, coolant temp sensor, coolant temp switch and flushed the system. After doing all that my jeep now runs warm WTF?!

The radiator is only a couple of years old so what could it be? Im going on a trip this weekend thats why I changed all those things so I really would like to resolve this issue ASAP please help!

Last edited by Pab's; 05-21-2012 at 10:58 PM.
Old 05-21-2012 | 10:44 PM
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Not advanced tech moved to OEM
Old 05-21-2012 | 10:52 PM
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Could be gauge just not reading properly. Temp gun'd it to be sure?
Old 05-21-2012 | 10:57 PM
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I dont have access to a temp gun. Im not sure what temp the E-fan turns on at but I let the jeep run untill it read 220-230 on the gauge and it did not turn on (the e-fan works).
Old 05-21-2012 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Pab's
I dont have access to a temp gun.
Less than $20 @ Ama
Amazon.com: HDE Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight: Home Improvement Amazon.com: HDE Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight: Home Improvement

Buy 1 & toss it in your toolbox, they come in handy.
Old 05-21-2012 | 11:15 PM
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Random but what about rad cap? Try a new one, if it helps, it was cheap.
Old 05-21-2012 | 11:37 PM
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Heres the thing. Im fixing to go on vacation with the wife we were going to drive down to the coast this weekend. I dont have time to order a temp gun from amazon and wait for it to get here.

Why would the radiator cap matter? I dont think thats the issue though its the same cap that was on there when the temp read fine.
Old 05-21-2012 | 11:47 PM
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Are you sure all the air is purged from the system? If yes & it still upsets you try putting the old coolant temperature sensor back in & see what happens.
Old 05-22-2012 | 12:20 AM
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Yes all the air out. No can do on the old sensor....it broke while I was removing it.
Old 05-22-2012 | 10:15 AM
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Can u explain in detail the flush procedure?
Old 05-22-2012 | 10:40 AM
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unless all the air was purged from the head, an air pocket is going to form under the sender. i agree with djb, explain exactly what you did.
Old 05-22-2012 | 12:31 PM
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You could have the wrong sensor. Put it in hot water and messure the ohm, then find out what ohm your should have at the temperatur the wate has and see if its correct. I dont know what year they changed the ohm, maybe it have something with renix to do? but i got a sensor (the one to the gauge) that had wrong values.
Old 05-22-2012 | 08:36 PM
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Alright so I went to go use the temp gun while the gauge was giving me a reading of 260* I checked the thermostat housing and got a reading of 217* & got a reading of the back of the head of 206*. I figured it was safe to drive so after calling the dealership to get the correct part number for the coolant temp switch I went to O'Reilly's and picked the right sensor up went home and poped it into place.

After it was installed I let it idle for 10 minutes and the temp stayed steady at under the 210* marker I went out for a hard 15 minute drive and the temp was around 220*

Old 05-22-2012 | 09:40 PM
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Did you recheck temp with gun after all that?
Old 05-22-2012 | 09:55 PM
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I suspect your rad is partially clogged giving u something less than a 100% clear/efficient rad. No amount of flushing will remove solids from the bottom portion of the rad.....only a rad shop can clean it thoroughly by removing the tanks from the core and rodding it out. Sometimes a flush can move crud from one area to another. Crud from the big water jackets (the block and head) can easily plug the small passages in the rad.



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