Overheating still.
#2
CF Veteran
My internet server and me have been out of commission awhile so excuse me for not knowing the history of your thread. Actually 210 is the normal operating temp for your engine. My '96 runs that even with the A/C on. If your going by your dash gauge they aren't precise in their readings.
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No replace with the proper one that is required for your XJ, those temps aren't that high to begin with mine runs about 210 when all is good.
Posted at the same time Earl.
Posted at the same time Earl.
#6
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
There is a bunch of things that make up your cooling system. Make sure you check the following items:
- Radiator, ensure no blockages in the radiator by flushing it upside down, or backwards. Check for leaks as well
- Thermostat, use a stock 195 not a crappy no name brand one
- Waterpump, ensure proper pressure by squeezing the upper upper and lower hose while the car is warm to ensure hoses are holding pressure.
- Radiator Cap, most overlooked item and the easiest to replace. If older then 5 years old, replace it
- Heater Core, ensure proper flow and that it is not leaking.
- Clutch Fan, test clutch fan operation when cold and when at proper operating temp with the car off. you should have resistance trying to spin the fan yourself, and not make one full rotation with any kind of free spin attempt.
- Electric Fan, ensure this turns on at 218*F, or wire in a secondary switch to turn it on yourself, or be activated via temp window.
- Radiator fluid, to be changed every 3-5 years, or when discoloration is noticed. If a brown color is seen, change immediately. Use 1 gallon of Concentrate and use DISTILLED WATER to fill up the remaining space. Bleed properly. DO NOT USE TAP WATER. If black particles are seen in the fluid, you have a radiator hose, or heater hose that is deteriorating, and falling apart. squeeze hoses when cold and replace the softest ones. More certain way is to remove hoses one by one and scrap the inside with your finger, if it feels smooth it is fine, if it feels rough inside, or black particles come out of the hose, replace it. It is better to replace it then have it collapse of burst later.
If after ALL this is attended to, and still having issues with A/C off (oh yea, ensure Electric fan is ALWAYS on with A/C on) then you have bigger issues. You would then be looking for blockages in your engine, or even cracks in the cylinder head, or engine block.
- Radiator, ensure no blockages in the radiator by flushing it upside down, or backwards. Check for leaks as well
- Thermostat, use a stock 195 not a crappy no name brand one
- Waterpump, ensure proper pressure by squeezing the upper upper and lower hose while the car is warm to ensure hoses are holding pressure.
- Radiator Cap, most overlooked item and the easiest to replace. If older then 5 years old, replace it
- Heater Core, ensure proper flow and that it is not leaking.
- Clutch Fan, test clutch fan operation when cold and when at proper operating temp with the car off. you should have resistance trying to spin the fan yourself, and not make one full rotation with any kind of free spin attempt.
- Electric Fan, ensure this turns on at 218*F, or wire in a secondary switch to turn it on yourself, or be activated via temp window.
- Radiator fluid, to be changed every 3-5 years, or when discoloration is noticed. If a brown color is seen, change immediately. Use 1 gallon of Concentrate and use DISTILLED WATER to fill up the remaining space. Bleed properly. DO NOT USE TAP WATER. If black particles are seen in the fluid, you have a radiator hose, or heater hose that is deteriorating, and falling apart. squeeze hoses when cold and replace the softest ones. More certain way is to remove hoses one by one and scrap the inside with your finger, if it feels smooth it is fine, if it feels rough inside, or black particles come out of the hose, replace it. It is better to replace it then have it collapse of burst later.
If after ALL this is attended to, and still having issues with A/C off (oh yea, ensure Electric fan is ALWAYS on with A/C on) then you have bigger issues. You would then be looking for blockages in your engine, or even cracks in the cylinder head, or engine block.
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#8
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
OP, unless you are getting higher spikes in temp, it looks like you are running normal.
Mine always goes from 210 to 215, even after a complete overhaul of the cooling system (new pump, radiator, fan clutch, several system flushes). If stuck in traffic on a really hot day, it will jump to 230-240 and the auxilary will kick on.
Mine always goes from 210 to 215, even after a complete overhaul of the cooling system (new pump, radiator, fan clutch, several system flushes). If stuck in traffic on a really hot day, it will jump to 230-240 and the auxilary will kick on.
#9
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/coolant-225085/
I predict someone will eventually end up with a concussion in one of these threads.
#10
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
210* is normal operating temperature of a 4.0L I6. you need to run a factory spec 195* thermostat for the jeep to function correctly. it will function with a lower temp thermostat but not to its full potential. The coolant temp sensor does a ton of fuel curve timing adjustments via the computer depending on the temp of the coolant.
#11
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No it's not. Not even a little bit.
Of course it does. That's exactly what should happen.
No.
Stop trying to solve the "problem" of your engine running correctly. You do NOT know better than the designers what running temperature is correct for your your engine.
Of course it does. That's exactly what should happen.
No.
- 210-215 is the correct operating temperature for this vehicle. Making it run cooler would be bad.
- A lower rated thermostat will not make it run cooler. It will make it take longer to get up to operating temperature. Hammer this into your brains, people.
- So if you do a lot of short runs, yes, it will run cooler for those runs.
- #s 2 and 3 are bad things, not good things.
Stop trying to solve the "problem" of your engine running correctly. You do NOT know better than the designers what running temperature is correct for your your engine.
#12
CF Veteran
If the CTS senses below a certain temperature it will not go into closed loop, meaning the fuel and timing trims will be from a table in ram and not from the O2 sensors. Vewy inefficient. "Discovery, take air data."
#14
CF Veteran
Here's his earlier thread. It doesn't really help.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/coolant-225085/
I predict someone will eventually end up with a concussion in one of these threads.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/coolant-225085/
I predict someone will eventually end up with a concussion in one of these threads.
THANKS. Been away for a bit but nothing seems to have changed none.
#15
CF Veteran
His problem is that he wants it to run at the temp value of the thermostat and that ain't gonna happen. Sometimes the machine is smarter than the operator.