Parts that can reduce Heat in Jeep
05-09-2021, 09:18 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Parts that can reduce Heat in Jeep
What parts could you replace in your Jeep in order in to keep the heat down?
Could a Continental Elite Serpentine Belt or some type of serpentine belt reduce heat?
What about high pressure water pump?
What about a new performance thermostat?
(does a lower opening temperature help?)
What about a low or high pressure radiator cap?
92 XJ Manual
Could a Continental Elite Serpentine Belt or some type of serpentine belt reduce heat?
What about high pressure water pump?
What about a new performance thermostat?
(does a lower opening temperature help?)
What about a low or high pressure radiator cap?
92 XJ Manual
Last edited by XJ_XJ; 05-09-2021 at 09:21 PM. Reason: Additional Information
05-09-2021, 11:23 PM
#2
CF Veteran
Why? Are you overheating or running hot? In that case, you need to go look for the cause,but not remedy a symptom.
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ijeeep (05-12-2021)
05-10-2021, 06:05 AM
#4
CF Veteran
Your engine is designed to run within a certain temp range (which for a great part is regulated by your thermostat).
Cooler isn't better per se.
So, why ?
Cooler isn't better per se.
So, why ?
05-10-2021, 06:26 AM
#5
Senior Member
The only engine (engine bay) heating issue (I am aware of) with a properly maintained/operating XJ is "heat soak" on the fuel rail in the 2000-2001 years.
05-10-2021, 09:26 AM
#7
CF Veteran
What parts could you replace in your Jeep in order in to keep the heat down?
Could a Continental Elite Serpentine Belt or some type of serpentine belt reduce heat? UNLESS THE EXISTING BELT IS WORN OUT, OR OILY AND SLIPPING, NO A NEW BELT WONT HELP.
What about high pressure water pump? THE STOCK PUMP IS GOOD FOR MOST CONDITIONS, THE STOCK PUMP MIGHT HAVE ERODED BLADES, AND HENCE A REPLACEMENT MAY HELP. A PERFORMANCE ONE MIGHT BE THE BEST CHOICE, I REPLACED MY STOCK PUMP WHICH LEAKED WITH A FLOWKOOLER BRAND.
What about a new performance thermostat? THERE ARE THERMOSTATS THAT ARE REPORTED TO BE LESS RESTRICTIVE TO FLOW, AND FLOW IS GOOD, BUT STOCK IS FINE IN MOST APPLICATIONS. ROBERT SHAW MAKES A FANCY HIGH FLOW THERMOSTAT, I USE THAT ONE.
(does a lower opening temperature help?) NO, A LOWER RANGE THERMOSTAT THAN STOCK WONT KEEP THE PEAK TEMPS LOWER, IT WILL HOWEVER CAUSE A LONGER WARM UP PERIOD, AND TOO COLD IS A PROBLEM. THE ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM WILL RUN THE FUEL TOO RICH IF THE ENGINE IS TOO COLD FOR INSTANCE.
What about a low or high pressure radiator cap? LOW PRESSURE MEANS IT WILL BOIL OVER EASIER, DONT DO THAT, A HIGHER PRESSURE CAN CAUSE FAILURE OF WEAK PARTS OF THE SYSTEM, USE THE CORRECT TYPE. THIS WONT HELP YOU BE COOLER, UNLESS YOU ARE BOILING OVER DO TO A DEFECTIVE CAP.
92 XJ Manual
Could a Continental Elite Serpentine Belt or some type of serpentine belt reduce heat? UNLESS THE EXISTING BELT IS WORN OUT, OR OILY AND SLIPPING, NO A NEW BELT WONT HELP.
What about high pressure water pump? THE STOCK PUMP IS GOOD FOR MOST CONDITIONS, THE STOCK PUMP MIGHT HAVE ERODED BLADES, AND HENCE A REPLACEMENT MAY HELP. A PERFORMANCE ONE MIGHT BE THE BEST CHOICE, I REPLACED MY STOCK PUMP WHICH LEAKED WITH A FLOWKOOLER BRAND.
What about a new performance thermostat? THERE ARE THERMOSTATS THAT ARE REPORTED TO BE LESS RESTRICTIVE TO FLOW, AND FLOW IS GOOD, BUT STOCK IS FINE IN MOST APPLICATIONS. ROBERT SHAW MAKES A FANCY HIGH FLOW THERMOSTAT, I USE THAT ONE.
(does a lower opening temperature help?) NO, A LOWER RANGE THERMOSTAT THAN STOCK WONT KEEP THE PEAK TEMPS LOWER, IT WILL HOWEVER CAUSE A LONGER WARM UP PERIOD, AND TOO COLD IS A PROBLEM. THE ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM WILL RUN THE FUEL TOO RICH IF THE ENGINE IS TOO COLD FOR INSTANCE.
What about a low or high pressure radiator cap? LOW PRESSURE MEANS IT WILL BOIL OVER EASIER, DONT DO THAT, A HIGHER PRESSURE CAN CAUSE FAILURE OF WEAK PARTS OF THE SYSTEM, USE THE CORRECT TYPE. THIS WONT HELP YOU BE COOLER, UNLESS YOU ARE BOILING OVER DO TO A DEFECTIVE CAP.
92 XJ Manual
Last edited by robsjeep; 05-10-2021 at 09:30 AM.
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05-10-2021, 12:13 PM
#8
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Sounds like it aint broke. So why fix it? Will it be a trail rig, or used for towing, or used in triple digit climates? If not, i see no point in upgrading the cooling system. If serviced regularly, you should never need to. But parts do wear out. Waterpump, radiator, radiator cap, hoses, heater core, and thermostat. If the coolant looks dirty, flush it. I wouldnt bother with the belt unless there is something physically wrong with it.
Do you have a heater control valve? If you do, delete it before it cracks and dumps coolant. Not a pretty sight.
Do you have a heater control valve? If you do, delete it before it cracks and dumps coolant. Not a pretty sight.
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cruiser54 (05-11-2021)
05-10-2021, 12:47 PM
#9
CF Veteran
Well, no one has answered his question. But here are a few thoughts.
High flow water pumps are a waste of money. Sounds good in theory, but the fact is that the pump will pump more coolant than necessary to properly cool the engine, much more.
Performance tstat. Same thing same answer.
Cooling is all about temperature transfer and air flow. So, a clean radiator and cooling system is essential.
Air flow can be increased by eliminating the fan clutch. More air flow equals more cooling, up to a point. Some have put a ZJ fan clutch in, which will make the fan spin a little faster since it is a heavier clutch.
Having a full shroud on the mechanical fan instead of a partial shroud will increase air flow. The fan blade should be half exposed outside of the back of the shroud to allow centrifugal slinging of air and thus increasing the flow. (Really, backed by research in the HVAC industry)
Anything more than a single core never hurts, if you have the air flow to go with it.
Wiring your efan to operate all the time doesn't hurt either.
If you decide to run an electric fan set up, make sure total air flow is greater than 2000 cfm
Venting the hood in the proper place. There is currently an active thread on that.
Separate transmission cooler, if adequate can help too by removing a heat source from the return coolant to the engine
Adding an engine oil cooler can help by cooling deep internally
I am sure some will disagree, but those are all proven things to consider
High flow water pumps are a waste of money. Sounds good in theory, but the fact is that the pump will pump more coolant than necessary to properly cool the engine, much more.
Performance tstat. Same thing same answer.
Cooling is all about temperature transfer and air flow. So, a clean radiator and cooling system is essential.
Air flow can be increased by eliminating the fan clutch. More air flow equals more cooling, up to a point. Some have put a ZJ fan clutch in, which will make the fan spin a little faster since it is a heavier clutch.
Having a full shroud on the mechanical fan instead of a partial shroud will increase air flow. The fan blade should be half exposed outside of the back of the shroud to allow centrifugal slinging of air and thus increasing the flow. (Really, backed by research in the HVAC industry)
Anything more than a single core never hurts, if you have the air flow to go with it.
Wiring your efan to operate all the time doesn't hurt either.
If you decide to run an electric fan set up, make sure total air flow is greater than 2000 cfm
Venting the hood in the proper place. There is currently an active thread on that.
Separate transmission cooler, if adequate can help too by removing a heat source from the return coolant to the engine
Adding an engine oil cooler can help by cooling deep internally
I am sure some will disagree, but those are all proven things to consider
05-10-2021, 12:52 PM
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
and the radiator cap is there as a safety device. it not only keeps the pressure in the system at a certain setting to keep the coolant form boiling, it also releases at a certain pressure to keep the coolant from breaking any hoses or heater core and radiators. if you put a high pressure cap on, it could not release and your heater core could split unloading all the hot coolant on you or your passenger's feet and lower legs.
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BrandoJeepo (05-12-2021)
05-10-2021, 03:50 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sounds like it aint broke. So why fix it? Will it be a trail rig, or used for towing, or used in triple digit climates? If not, i see no point in upgrading the cooling system. If serviced regularly, you should never need to. But parts do wear out. Waterpump, radiator, radiator cap, hoses, heater core, and thermostat. If the coolant looks dirty, flush it. I wouldnt bother with the belt unless there is something physically wrong with it.
Do you have a heater control valve? If you do, delete it before it cracks and dumps coolant. Not a pretty sight.
Do you have a heater control valve? If you do, delete it before it cracks and dumps coolant. Not a pretty sight.
What do you mean by the belt having something physically wrong with it? It has fuzzy stuff on the edges, is that bad? No cracks that I noticed?
05-10-2021, 03:52 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well, no one has answered his question. But here are a few thoughts.
High flow water pumps are a waste of money. Sounds good in theory, but the fact is that the pump will pump more coolant than necessary to properly cool the engine, much more.
Performance tstat. Same thing same answer.
Cooling is all about temperature transfer and air flow. So, a clean radiator and cooling system is essential.
Air flow can be increased by eliminating the fan clutch. More air flow equals more cooling, up to a point. Some have put a ZJ fan clutch in, which will make the fan spin a little faster since it is a heavier clutch.
Having a full shroud on the mechanical fan instead of a partial shroud will increase air flow. The fan blade should be half exposed outside of the back of the shroud to allow centrifugal slinging of air and thus increasing the flow. (Really, backed by research in the HVAC industry)
Anything more than a single core never hurts, if you have the air flow to go with it.
Wiring your efan to operate all the time doesn't hurt either.
If you decide to run an electric fan set up, make sure total air flow is greater than 2000 cfm
Venting the hood in the proper place. There is currently an active thread on that.
Separate transmission cooler, if adequate can help too by removing a heat source from the return coolant to the engine
Adding an engine oil cooler can help by cooling deep internally
I am sure some will disagree, but those are all proven things to consider
High flow water pumps are a waste of money. Sounds good in theory, but the fact is that the pump will pump more coolant than necessary to properly cool the engine, much more.
Performance tstat. Same thing same answer.
Cooling is all about temperature transfer and air flow. So, a clean radiator and cooling system is essential.
Air flow can be increased by eliminating the fan clutch. More air flow equals more cooling, up to a point. Some have put a ZJ fan clutch in, which will make the fan spin a little faster since it is a heavier clutch.
Having a full shroud on the mechanical fan instead of a partial shroud will increase air flow. The fan blade should be half exposed outside of the back of the shroud to allow centrifugal slinging of air and thus increasing the flow. (Really, backed by research in the HVAC industry)
Anything more than a single core never hurts, if you have the air flow to go with it.
Wiring your efan to operate all the time doesn't hurt either.
If you decide to run an electric fan set up, make sure total air flow is greater than 2000 cfm
Venting the hood in the proper place. There is currently an active thread on that.
Separate transmission cooler, if adequate can help too by removing a heat source from the return coolant to the engine
Adding an engine oil cooler can help by cooling deep internally
I am sure some will disagree, but those are all proven things to consider
I like all the feedback, but thanks for the details. To the best of my knowledge I have never had a Jeep run at the correct temp, always a little over. haha
What makes more sense the transmission cooler to engine cooler? Transmission, since it would help towing?
Also how do you wire the efan? Are there directions for that?
What is engine cooler? <- Ice?
Last edited by XJ_XJ; 05-10-2021 at 04:14 PM. Reason: Additional Information
05-10-2021, 04:55 PM
#13
CF Veteran
Obviously I was wrong in some of my guess thanks.
I like all the feedback, but thanks for the details. To the best of my knowledge I have never had a Jeep run at the correct temp, always a little over. haha
What makes more sense the transmission cooler to engine cooler? Transmission, since it would help towing?
Also how do you wire the efan? Are there directions for that?
What is engine cooler? <- Ice?
I like all the feedback, but thanks for the details. To the best of my knowledge I have never had a Jeep run at the correct temp, always a little over. haha
What makes more sense the transmission cooler to engine cooler? Transmission, since it would help towing?
Also how do you wire the efan? Are there directions for that?
What is engine cooler? <- Ice?
05-10-2021, 06:44 PM
#14
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,511
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
What parts could you replace in your Jeep in order in to keep the heat down?
Could a Continental Elite Serpentine Belt or some type of serpentine belt reduce heat?
What about high pressure water pump?
What about a new performance thermostat?
(does a lower opening temperature help?)
What about a low or high pressure radiator cap?
92 XJ Manual
Could a Continental Elite Serpentine Belt or some type of serpentine belt reduce heat?
What about high pressure water pump?
What about a new performance thermostat?
(does a lower opening temperature help?)
What about a low or high pressure radiator cap?
92 XJ Manual
No
No
No
No
the points @4.3L XJ would work
IF you live somewhere hot. My XJ doesnt get hot under about 75F ambient, as the ambient temp rises much over 80F it will be a consideration
fit a new radiator and water pump if in doubt
engine temp rising to 220F is completely normal
05-10-2021, 07:04 PM
#15
CF Veteran
Well, no one has answered his question. But here are a few thoughts.
High flow water pumps are a waste of money. Sounds good in theory, but the fact is that the pump will pump more coolant than necessary to properly cool the engine, much more.
Performance tstat. Same thing same answer.
Cooling is all about temperature transfer and air flow. So, a clean radiator and cooling system is essential.
Air flow can be increased by eliminating the fan clutch. More air flow equals more cooling, up to a point. Some have put a ZJ fan clutch in, which will make the fan spin a little faster since it is a heavier clutch.
Having a full shroud on the mechanical fan instead of a partial shroud will increase air flow. The fan blade should be half exposed outside of the back of the shroud to allow centrifugal slinging of air and thus increasing the flow. (Really, backed by research in the HVAC industry)
Anything more than a single core never hurts, if you have the air flow to go with it.
Wiring your efan to operate all the time doesn't hurt either.
If you decide to run an electric fan set up, make sure total air flow is greater than 2000 cfm
Venting the hood in the proper place. There is currently an active thread on that.
Separate transmission cooler, if adequate can help too by removing a heat source from the return coolant to the engine
Adding an engine oil cooler can help by cooling deep internally
I am sure some will disagree, but those are all proven things to consider
High flow water pumps are a waste of money. Sounds good in theory, but the fact is that the pump will pump more coolant than necessary to properly cool the engine, much more.
Performance tstat. Same thing same answer.
Cooling is all about temperature transfer and air flow. So, a clean radiator and cooling system is essential.
Air flow can be increased by eliminating the fan clutch. More air flow equals more cooling, up to a point. Some have put a ZJ fan clutch in, which will make the fan spin a little faster since it is a heavier clutch.
Having a full shroud on the mechanical fan instead of a partial shroud will increase air flow. The fan blade should be half exposed outside of the back of the shroud to allow centrifugal slinging of air and thus increasing the flow. (Really, backed by research in the HVAC industry)
Anything more than a single core never hurts, if you have the air flow to go with it.
Wiring your efan to operate all the time doesn't hurt either.
If you decide to run an electric fan set up, make sure total air flow is greater than 2000 cfm
Venting the hood in the proper place. There is currently an active thread on that.
Separate transmission cooler, if adequate can help too by removing a heat source from the return coolant to the engine
Adding an engine oil cooler can help by cooling deep internally
I am sure some will disagree, but those are all proven things to consider
I disagree with your first comment. Take a look at my prior post made this morning, a bit before 7 a.m. Bunch of questions answered.
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jpz (05-11-2021)