lucknuts

Yep.

So I don’t wrench on these things every day. Only when something needs fixing. I was hoping you guys would help with a parts list for what all would make this somewhat large job, at least for me, go easier.

I’m probably getting the doorman replacement exhaust manifold and gasket kit. I’d like to replace anything I can while I’m in there. Suggestions on other improvements that could be done while it’s apart are welcome. For example, I plan to at least clean the throttle body and I hope to have it bored out by a local machine shop too.

On amazon it says that people buy the rear main seal with the motor mounts. Is it possible to change this when changing the motor mounts?

• Replacement exhaust header with gaskets and bolts
• Possibly get felpro gasket anyway
• possibly get flex pipe to add to downpipe
• throttle body/carb cleaner
• PB blaster
• Engine mounts
• transmission mount

…?

Edit: Actual List so far

• Doorman exhaust header with gaskets and bolts
• Anti-seize
• Blue thread locker
• Throttle body/carb cleaner
• PB blaster
• Engine mounts
• Transmission mount
• Fuel injector o-rings
• Throttle body gasket
• Dielectric grease
• Screw extractor set (1 set for each broken stud)
• Right angle drill
• Right angle attachment for impact drill
• Metal punches/center punch
• Hoses to replace all the plastic tubes that will break

lawsoncl

Rear main seal is a completely different job. Don't bother boring the throttle body, just clean it up. Motor and trans mounts are a good idea, and bad mounts can contribute to a cracked manifold.

lucknuts

Thanks but in the book he noticed the difference when adding a bored throttle body.

Less cost to just clean it. Still haven’t asked what they want to bore it. You may be right in the end, for me right now.

lucknuts

According to this it’s bad to drive it very hard, like up a mountain every day, with a cracked exhaust.
https://www.autopadre.com/blog/how-l...n-exhaust-leak

I don't want to damage anything. Is this true for the xj?

And it says it can kill the cat. How to test for bad cat?

cruiser54

If you're hell bent on a bored throttle body, here ya go: http://strokedjeep.com/

awg

I would just fix what is busted and completely forget about bored throttle bodies, unless you are liking more power at high RPM, which is the only situation where more air would be considered

The inlet of an XJ is not restrictive at lower RPM

In my opinion, the exhaust is restricted (by design, for pollution control). I have 3 x XJ, and its my opinion a 2" (or 2-1/2" on mine) exhaust does give more power at all RPM (my DD has a Flowmaster header as well, sounds superb)

Not just my opinion, if you do some reading, 10-15% is claimed

If your engine and trans mounts are approaching 100k/10yrs, I would replace them with OEM quality

The Ex side takes much more punishment, its under compression as well, and its hard to change, so with ex out is ideal, the other side is simple.

A OEM style trans mount is vital to maintain good exhaust clearance, and make sure you blue loctite those big bolts that face down

lucknuts

Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated. Sounds like I’d be better off replacing the rest of the exhaust. Replaced the cat like a decade ago. But not with anything special.

I just ordered the engine and trans mounts that would get here the fastest. The local stores aren’t carrying all the parts for this old jeep anymore.

I hope they’re OEM. They look the same. I got rubber this time. Replaced the motor mounts with polyurethane when I did the lift.

But I don’t remember ever hearing about a transmission mount. Though when I look at it, it looks pretty new. Maybe I already changed it. How can I tell? Prying on the transfer case is what the book says. Sounds like a bad idea.

And I see that I may need a fuel line disconnect tool?

I don’t have a ride to the auto store. Any other way?

Dave51

IMO the key is the thickness. IIWM I'd make 2 tabs from a Chinese take-out soup container.

Dave51

Ask these guys:

https://www.mvd.newmexico.gov/vehicl...ssion-testing/

lucknuts

The fuel lines had tabs to pinch. Whew.

But these metal clips were a PITA. Had to poke the edge with a little screwdriver, shown in pic, until I could work a knife tip under the edge to pull them out.
Had to squat on the valve cover to get the rearmost one.

lucknuts

Just read in the instructions for the new exhaust manifold that I need thread locker and anti-seize.

They must mean the blue thread locker. I had a feeling I should have picked some anit-seize up since I’m dealing with aluminum parts.

lucknuts

Getting there. Only broke a little piece of that plastic rail getting it out. The fuel rail was stubborn. Finally popped out after lots of wiggling and pulling too hard for such a weak part.

Wow the injectors are dirty! Thought I saw a way to clean these at home on this forum. Anyone remember where?

lucknuts

The (front pipe, down pipe) seems to have never been apart. Been hitting it with PB blaster for a couple days. Many times today. Tried the ryobi hammer drill. Tried a breaker bar.

Am I supposed to torch it or cut it off now? They don’t look that rusted or corroded. Maybe just more spray and wait?


nvm

The big revelation was remembering that there are nuts under there and attacking them from underneath with hammer drill. The pb blaster probably helped.

lucknuts

I broke both studs off in the block.

Going to get an extractor set this morning. Anyone have any advice?

I have no idea how I'm going to get a drill on the rear one. Might buy a right angle drill.

Another question: I got this pack of doorman bolts that amazon said go with the manifold. But amazon sent me the wrong brake booster so…


Are these the same? And what is the plastic bit for?

lucknuts

So fuuuuuuuu…. n? The extractor kits drillbits dulled immediately and the extractors are bending and stripping.

I think I just bricked my jeep.


Holy wow I got one. Front one. Easy one. But still.

Need to find a way to drill it straighter and more center. Like a jig. Hmmmm