lawsoncl

Use a sharp punch to get a dimple started. The impact can also help loosen it up. Let it sit with some penetrating oil too.

cruiser54

Use left hand drill bits also.

awg

Yep. dont even think about getting any old fasteners apart, such as exhaust or into aluminum without heat cycling first (others may disagree, but I have cut my breakage rate to near zero)

A butane torch will do

You have a low chance of getting those stress hardened studs out without a very careful approach

The one you show is broken off too deep for my (used to be) favored approach, place washer over hole and mig weld a nut, that heats it

If you must drill and tap, you need brand new drill bits, start small, drill up to size. HSS may be ok, otherwise you need special hardened drill bits

I dont like those tapered extractors, straight fluted ones are better

You will probably have to drill it almost all the way, so make sure the centre punch mark is not offset

Its fixable, dont panic

lucknuts

Thanks! I especially like the Don't Panic being a fan of Douglas Adams.

I got the front one out by accidentally drilling all the way through. It startled me and I nicked the back of the bolt hole. Just a small divot. I hope it’s ok.

Need to check if it’s aluminum but it sure felt soft under the drill.

The rear one seems impossible to get a perpendicular angle on it, even with the right angle drill. There’s no room and I’ve broken lots of plastic parts in the engine bay having to crawl in there to work in it.

And now I have another off center angled hole started. Its barely a divot though because I would need new hardened bits to make any progress.

Sounds like you’re saying to heat it with a torch and let it cool a couple times?

awg

How deep in the head is the stud broken off ?

If it is less than 1/16", I would first try my stick or mig welder

clean it all up chemically spotless, a washer has to be put in place over the hole, then a nut is placed over the washer, and the broken stud is welded to the nut, though the hole

Makes it red hot and often wind straight out, if the nut snaps off, try again. It really pays to get it right first time though

I am here to tell you this will not be easy, if you are on your own, holding things in place, frustrating (unless you get it dead right)

No oxy is needed to heat frozen fasteners, butane is fine, unless they are big. You are way beyond that point, for future reference!

If that is not possible, you will have to get a right angle drill attachment, I cant tell, no pic

All iron, but you can still drill though, use a pointer to make sure you havent !

When doing this job, its essential that the starting drill in particular be brand new

Dave51

Y'know, at this point you don't need much more effort to just pull the head and work on the bench. I mean, time wasted, broken tools and parts-- cut your losses.

Do the valves while it's off.

lucknuts

Don't have a mig welder. Don’t even have a bench. Or a creeper. Funny thing is, I have all that at work but it’s on top of the mountain.

Got another couple extractor kits, just for the drill bits. Apparently left handed drill bits are hard to come by.

Finally got the smallest drill bit all the way through.




The hole was going all wrong at first trying to drill with these gimmicky Speed Out “As seen on tv” bits.

Although now that I have a hole I think I might try the extractor side before I drill up two more sizes like I had to with the kits from harbor freight.

I guess I need to go look up how to heat cycle it with my propane torch if it doesn’t come out soon.

Thanks for the input everyone.

lucknuts

If anyone was wondering…. Yep, there’s yer problm.

The transmission mount looks fine and so does the passenger side. But this drivers side mount is half missing and the bolt is bent. Looks more bent in person. The phone isn't quite capturing it.

I had to get doorman mounts and a bolt from autozone. I hope that’s close enough to OEM

cruiser54

Left hand drill bit might just grab the stud and pull it right out.

awg

At this point, I am going to agree with Dave

Unfortunately, imo, you are doing too many things wrong here

Once again, you should always use heat, its possible the studs have factory loctite on them

The Jeep factory loctite is very strong, but is like butter when heated

I could not remove the LCA nuts..until I heated them

I mentioned, but did not fully elaborate some of the issues to contend with, you should not attempt to extract studs that are not well drilled out etc

I do not know how many times you have done this sort of work

If this is your first rodeo, take the head off

Now, with that broken drill bit...hard things are brittle, so take a good quality sharp ***** punch and smash the drill bit, gouge out the pieces with hard pointer and magnet

This also works if you snap those stupid tapered "easy outs"

lucknuts

After a brief detour over that stuck head stud where I’m grateful to have been able to prove all the naysayers wrong, I’m back to replacing the exhaust manifold. To be fair to the naysayers, that should have been impossible. I might be blessed.

I almost started taking it apart. All I needed was a little faith and perseverance.

Don't know why nobody read the part where I had already turned it a half turn. That’s why it seemed that heat was unnecessary. But, if I ever do this again I will heat it first, if only to check for loctite.

Detour:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bro...0/#post3716691

awg

classic symptom of loctite. especially the Jeep stuff, it absolutely will gall up on the threads and prevent further movement

Once its heated that does not happen

Once again, others may disagree, I use copperslip on exhaust studs and nuts

If done properly, this does not lead to any issues

My exhaust pro is dismissive, saying it burns up...but it does not!.. I take my own tub and beg him

lucknuts

Ha! Thanks. The doorman replacement studs had some kind of loctite on them. It was yellow though.

I used anti-seize on the bolts and nuts.

lucknuts

It was a lot of wrestling for one guy in the dark. But I got it back together last night.

Now how in the world am I supposed to torque this thing? Do they even make a tiny clicking torque wrench that does ft lbs?

lucknuts

Wow, autozone has a torque wrench that does inch pounds. But only up to 200. (24 ft lbs. = 288 in lbs. )

And the only ft lbs wrench is 35 ft lbs and up!

Anyone else’s town like this or is it just here? Can hardly ever find what we need.

Maybe torque wrenches are for sissies and I can just do some bolt whispering.

6 hours later:

It wasn't impossible. Just needed to get creative with different combos of extensions and swivels and sockets.