Parts list for replacing the exhaust manifold and maybe more?
#31
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Year: 96
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I am pretty sure my torque wrenches cover the full range, the 1/2" drive goes 20-150ft lb
They are electronic, and showed my very expensive manual TR was way out !
I recently acquired for a very low price a Norbar 3/4", covers 150 to 600ftlb, its industry standard use is truck and bus wheel nuts
My mate who does this, was clearly envious, his Snap-On was like a toy, about half the size
They are electronic, and showed my very expensive manual TR was way out !
I recently acquired for a very low price a Norbar 3/4", covers 150 to 600ftlb, its industry standard use is truck and bus wheel nuts
My mate who does this, was clearly envious, his Snap-On was like a toy, about half the size
#32
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Year: 1990
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and the extensions and wobblies alter the torque reading.................
#33
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copperslip usually alters the torque values substantially, there are tables that indicate what it should be
Also MUST check them soon after
One way is to use a less powerful loctite than red or yellow, such as blue, or Loctite "screw lock" these seal and lock the thread but come apart with little heat and hand tools
Also MUST check them soon after
One way is to use a less powerful loctite than red or yellow, such as blue, or Loctite "screw lock" these seal and lock the thread but come apart with little heat and hand tools
#34
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copperslip usually alters the torque values substantially, there are tables that indicate what it should be
Also MUST check them soon after
One way is to use a less powerful loctite than red or yellow, such as blue, or Loctite "screw lock" these seal and lock the thread but come apart with little heat and hand tools
Also MUST check them soon after
One way is to use a less powerful loctite than red or yellow, such as blue, or Loctite "screw lock" these seal and lock the thread but come apart with little heat and hand tools
I never used it! In all the instructions and online stuff most people said to use a tiny dab of anti-seize on the bolts and the spot where the nuts tighten on the studs.
And after that stud breaking off I wanted to make sure that never happened again.
I read that anti-seize increases torque by about 10% so most people reduce torque by that much when using it.
I also read that the 4.0 exhaust manifold torque is not enough and some recommended torquing and then tightening a little more.
So, I just torqued it to spec to gain an extra 10% tightness, which is not all 24ft lbs as many say. The studs, 6&7, on my year are listed at 17 ft lbs. 🤪
And I will check them again after driving around a bit.
Hey why did nobody warn me about all the smoke when I ran it the first time? That was freaky. Ha
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#35
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You're making good progress!!!
When I did my exhaust manifold, I had a bear of a time getting to some of the lower bolts in order to torque them.
Glad you checked the torque specs. You're right, the studs are 17, the rest are 24. Hope you followed the sequence.
When I did my exhaust manifold, I had a bear of a time getting to some of the lower bolts in order to torque them.
Glad you checked the torque specs. You're right, the studs are 17, the rest are 24. Hope you followed the sequence.
#36
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