on my 94 Cherokee 4.0 the rear passenger door isn't wanting to open from the outside handle i've tried replacing the spring on the locking mechanism that pushes the button on the handle back out. but it's like the bar inside there isn't pushing down enough for it to actually open the locking mechanism. because it will still open if I push on the bar by hand. could this be just the clips holding the rods getting loose? anyone have any ideas?

 

Sorry for the stupid suggestion but ...did you check the kid's safety lock? I got caught once...

 

Kid lock prevents opening from the inside, not outside.

Is the door locked?

 

Oh duhh. Never mind. I thought my suggestion was stupid. I'll go for my nap now.

 

Mine was doing this, the rods just needed some good lubrication.

 

Do you think it has seen allot of use? I had a REALLY BAD TIME when my drivers went "into neutral", both inside and out due to the lock design having a plastic piece in a crucial spot (inside the mechanism). I had to "plunge cut" through the door, to cut the actual pin.

I was able to bend something in there to take up the wear on the plastic. (not recommended) I'm over 6' and was over 250! Climbing over the console...really sucked in the heat.

They CAN just wear out, (when plastic is properly used )

 

What did you use to lubricate them? and Yes they have seen alot of use it's a 94 with 250k miles... I need to replace the door handles on the driver and passenger rear anyways but i'm just checking to see if anyone had any ideas so I could buy the next parts before just ordering the door handles...

 

Well, that brings up a good question. I find that with my window all the way down, I can "laser" arisol "chain & cable lube" on the window crank (some!), and the lock...been a while...that foam shoots feet, (the can should come with a tube), then dissolves in as the bubbles brake...maybe there is a better way?

(that would be through a space, by moving the rubber stripping over, then hitting things through that crack)

No clew, maybe a dealer for parts, I'd hit the JY......allot of "body parts" , wont be at the auto parts.

 

i'll check out the chain lube idea I just tried WD40. I'm going to try PB blaster also. but thank you for the ideas. I may end up having to buy a new locking mechanism but we'll see. Or I can try and jerry rig something to make it that little bit longer or maybe I just need new plastic connecting clips?

 

Likely a different deal...but inside my mechanism, an importand "Pad", that needs to push on something else important, was PLASTIC! I'm usually somewhere where it's hard to get anything, so I just bent something in there, did a hail Mary, then spent another "forever" putting it all back together. It is just worn out, (but mostly working). Forget WD 40. If you did get it to squirt anywhere that mattered, it just might help clean it. PB...maybe for a bit...that chain & cable lube, even at $8 a can is pretty neat. It really shoots a ways, and is an actual lubricant. Short of dipping your door in gear oil, it seems a good option to me!

If the plastic clip were broken, sure. I might look at BOTH ends of that rod, maybe a worn bushing at the handle end? Or the handle pivot, it IT"S actual mount. If I could make it work by hand, I might bend the rod straighter, (or shorter), it that made it work, (then lube it well)

 

Okay thank you DF Flinstone. I'll be buying some Chain lube. and When I replace the door handle tommorow i'll look into bending the rod back if it needs it or possibly replacing the plastic clips if there really loose.

 

My passenger rear door does the same exact thing. I have to push the button in real far and then open it with a little "love" as I say. Not to mention the window doesn't budge at all and the lock sticks. I just kinda leave it alone as the reject door...