ImCas

I have an odd problem. I had the issue where I could only control all the windows from the driver's master switch and other switch worked. Figuring it was the window lock causing the issue I replaced the master switch. After doing so all the windows worked EXCEPT the front passenger window, which now will not work either from the passenger switch OR from the master switch. I can tell it's doing something because when I attempt to roll it down from the driver side, the light in the passenger's switch goes out and then goes back on when I release the switch. This happened IMMEDIATELY after replacing the master control panel. Any ideas? Bad master control? Bad window motor? Bad passenger switch?

​​​​​​*EDIT*

After reading a post with a similar issue I have discovered when I push the passenger switch up I can hear the motor click as it's getting power. It will not do it pushing the passenger switch down or in either position from the master control switch in the driver door.

Ralph77

So it might be bad luck but the window worked when you had the old master control switch in right?
My first thought is put it back in and see what happens.
Other thoughts
Put a meter to the connector to the window regulator on the passenger side.
Make sure that power is going to the window regulator.
Put power the window regulator direct and see what happens also.
This is why I love my little jump box for stuff like this.
And this:

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-2-x-...p-00920915000P

ImCas

Yes it worked with the original switch and I have thought of that. What's throwing me off is that when I hit the switch on the master it cuts off power to the light on the passenger switch, both with and without the car running.

ImCas

*update* I just plugged the old switch back in and it works just as before. Figure I might as well pull them apart and try to see if I can swap out parts from one to the other. If it works great if not I'll have to get a new one anyway.
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2DrXJRegulatorFix

You can fix them by re-soldering the joints. Super easy and takes about 20 minutes.

is the video I used to do mine when I had the same problem.

ImCas

I got it to work. The original one had broken solder points like you said, along with a little slot in the window lock switch where a tiny little coil spring sits so it can toggle had worn out so it wouldn't stay in the locked position. I stole that part from the new defective switches. I know my issue was that it was permanently locked but it would've been the opposite if I hadn't checked in the switch itself. On the new one it was just some bad luck. The circuit board was fried right next to the side of the switch that rolls the window down which explains why I only heard the clicking when I pushed up on the passenger door's switch but not down. Between that and a redo on the solder all four windows are working as they should.
PS I got this part from car quest. $70. If you need one of these master controls I'd get it elsewhere if I were you.

Picture of the defective board

Black & Tan

I had the same problem with the passenger side window not working. I followed the video but I also used contact cleaner and sprayed it all over the individual switch contacts. Everything works great now. After 20 years there was lots of black soot that built up on the contacts preventing proper switch operation.