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**please help** trouble with idle and voltage

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Old 12-20-2011 | 06:59 PM
  #181  
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Haha once again. Hilarious. I believe hd oil has more zddp also.... Least it did when I ran it in my beetle.
Old 12-20-2011 | 07:00 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
I think the "HD" you see on the oil bottle means "high detergent". I remember an old chevy I had run on Pennzoil before high detergent was the norm. The valve cover was completely casted with gunk. Just clearance to let the rockers move.
Theory was you didn't want to switch to HD because when all that gunk came loose it would foul things up. (that is, switch without cleaning it up first).

If I was worried about some sort of contamination, I'd change the oil & filter, then just plan the next change sooner. If modern High Detergent oil can't get it to come loose and lodge in my filter, it can stay where it is as far as I'm concerned. Just my Two cents......
I like the way u think. So what would be a good oil and weight and filter?
Old 12-20-2011 | 07:42 PM
  #183  
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Wix or Napa Gold for a filter. Rotella 10-30 or 15-40 in gallons from Wal-Mart. Don't forget the MMO.
Old 12-20-2011 | 08:05 PM
  #184  
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Cruiser is the man. /\. I was asking him about filters last week. I happen to like Castrol (so does my Beetle btw.)

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil.../opinions.html
Old 12-20-2011 | 09:48 PM
  #185  
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Rotella, MMO, and Wix. Great recipe.
Old 12-20-2011 | 09:59 PM
  #186  
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there is a ground on the back right of the valve cover (when looking at the engine from the front) check for tightness. just sayin
Old 12-20-2011 | 10:03 PM
  #187  
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I might give that Rotella 15-40 a try. "MY" 30W Castrol only comes in $4.50 quarts, (Wall-mart). If it knocks, (again) on the multy grade, no loss, I'll have a years supply of oil for my chainsaw bar! (saw has been getting Castrol 10-40 this last year).
Old 12-21-2011 | 01:43 PM
  #188  
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Why would you use a 15-40... Cruiser have you read the very in depth explaination of viscosity at bobistheoilguy.com? It's called motor oil university I believe. I will never use anything thicker then a 5-30 again.
Old 12-21-2011 | 06:19 PM
  #189  
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Cuz in the factory owner's manual I have on my desk, and the one that was current in 1989, says that for temps down to 0* use 10w and for up to 100* use 40w. We always used the factory oil at the dealership that was a 15w40 since our temps varied from 0* to 100* throughout the year.
Old 12-21-2011 | 09:40 PM
  #190  
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The rules have changed. Especially with synthetics....
Old 12-21-2011 | 09:41 PM
  #191  
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The what? Cat got your keyboard?
Old 12-21-2011 | 09:42 PM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
The what? Cat got your keyboard?
Haha im sitting in dui class posting from my phone with one hand lol
Old 12-21-2011 | 09:45 PM
  #193  
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I've used synthetics for years, mostly in big rigs. I think the whole oil weight thing is over-emphasized.
Old 12-22-2011 | 12:26 AM
  #194  
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It's just the fact that most automotive oils are the same viscosity at operating temperature. Even the heavy ones. The difference is more at cold start. There is no oil in automotive use today that is light enough to properly lubricate when cold but lighter oils become thin enough to lubricate much faster. Synthetics are even better because they are engineered to be a little lighter cold in comparison.
Old 12-22-2011 | 06:24 AM
  #195  
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I would hope that the film left on my bearing surfaces from the previous shutdown would be sufficient to lubricate during the nano-second it takes for my Jeeps to build oil pressure. Ever disassembled an engine? No dry bearings in there. Can you imagine what the difference in viscosity is between 10 and 15 weight oils at 32*? Splitting hairs here.

Last edited by cruiser54; 12-22-2011 at 08:26 AM.



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