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**please help** trouble with idle and voltage

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Old 12-04-2011 | 09:52 AM
  #61  
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This might sound stupid. but since all your problems started when you just changed your valve cover gasket is it possible you may have pinched a wire under the valve cover and now its creating a short to ground. i'm only throwing this out there cause i did this dumb mistake when i was a kid on my crappy ford granada.
Old 12-04-2011 | 09:53 AM
  #62  
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That's not stupid, and the wiring for the crank position sensor is back there....
Old 12-04-2011 | 12:44 PM
  #63  
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Well I looked and its not a pinched wire. And this is a headache like no tomorrow! But I will work at it when I can. Its a pain in the *** but in a weird way, I enjoy it
Old 12-04-2011 | 12:46 PM
  #64  
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You will feel like you climbed everest when you do fix it. Feels great plus you learn a lot about your vehicles.
Old 12-04-2011 | 01:36 PM
  #65  
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Here we go. I'll give you some stuff to do. I hadn't been subscribed to this thread. Slick sent me a PM. Do as described in these instructions. NO SHORTCUTS.

Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
 
 
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at
www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
 
Revised 11-28-2011

Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing
 
 
The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future.
The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner.
Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU.
While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in.
I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep.
 
Revised 11-29-2011
Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting
 
 
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.
 
Revised 11-29-2011
Old 12-04-2011 | 01:57 PM
  #66  
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Thank you cruiser! Konrad, cruiser is very knowledgable on renix systems. I recommend you follow his directions to a t and you should resolve your issue.
Old 12-04-2011 | 02:39 PM
  #67  
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Anyone know where this goes. I fixed my problem, it was bad spark plug wires. But I found this just laying there. Anyone know where is goes?
**please help** trouble with idle and voltage-forumrunner_20111204_133923.jpg

Last edited by T85konrad; 12-04-2011 at 06:12 PM.
Old 12-04-2011 | 06:16 PM
  #68  
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To the heater control valve that you probalby don't have anymore.

Oughta do the grounds just cuz. You have no idea how much future trouble you'll save yourself.
Old 12-04-2011 | 07:39 PM
  #69  
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Oh I cleaned all my grounds and replaced my CPS and the oil pressure switch and a new battery and the spark wires. Now I need a new vacuum part (the one with all the hoses connected to it) and tires and a full blown tune up, im atill getting a bad idle and voltage drops when im at idle. Also my oil pressure surges when I'm on the gas and drops when I'm off it so I still have some stuff to do but still need help. anyone know a good mechanic in the Chicago land area?
Old 12-04-2011 | 07:50 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Here we go. I'll give you some stuff to do. I hadn't been subscribed to this thread. Slick sent me a PM. Do as described in these instructions. NO SHORTCUTS.

Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud's mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn't hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you're in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver's side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it's intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3'4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.


If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.

Revised 11-28-2011

Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing


The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future.
The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner.
Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU.
While you're right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in.
I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep.

Revised 11-29-2011
Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting


Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn't generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won't start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That's a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It's worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it's mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won't fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.

Revised 11-29-2011
OK u, my friend, are a life saver. I will be doing all of this this week. I got her to start but she sounds rough. So I will do the fallowing steps and hope it clears up the bugs. And does anyone have pic of a stock 1990 era in line six. My jeep was tampered with alot and have alot of crap that doesn't look right. I need a new vacuum piece ($25 at Autozone) and the hose from the valve cover isn't supposed to go straight to the damn intake box. I'm just getting oil in my intake from that.
Old 12-06-2011 | 01:49 PM
  #71  
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What r the symptoms of an engine's timing being off?
Old 12-06-2011 | 05:40 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by T85konrad
What r the symptoms of an engine's timing being off?
Your timing is controlled by the ECU. Forget about it.

Until you have done what's outlined in the above instructions, I wouldn't be searching for more stuff just yet.
Old 12-06-2011 | 05:46 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Your timing is controlled by the ECU. Forget about it.

Until you have done what's outlined in the above instructions, I wouldn't be searching for more stuff just yet.
Ah OK. Thank you again.
Old 12-06-2011 | 05:50 PM
  #74  
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Print the instructions and take them out to the garage and get to work. LOL.
Old 12-06-2011 | 06:16 PM
  #75  
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Lol already printed and on tomorrow's agenda lol



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