The pneumatic cylinder thingy in my front suspension is totally leaking
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 1,744
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
The pneumatic cylinder thingy in my front suspension is totally leaking
I can't find an XJ photo that has the part that looks like the screen door closer.
What effect is this going to have on the driving?
What is this part called, so I can order a new one....
Is this a major job to replace?
What effect is this going to have on the driving?
What is this part called, so I can order a new one....
Is this a major job to replace?
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
I bet you 10 bucks you spend more than 16 hours replacing this part because removing the tapered stud from the drag link can be difficult sometimes.
Please do a full writeup on the replacement.
Please do a full writeup on the replacement.
#11
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lehigh Valley PA
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 renix
Mine had completely drained as well. Was a very easy job. I doubt you'd have any issue doing it, it's like 2 bolts that shouldn't be too much of a problem.
The Moog OEM one is a lot beefier than the stock ones, and are only like $40.
The Moog OEM one is a lot beefier than the stock ones, and are only like $40.
#12
Junior Member
C'mon. You know he's not going to try to use something like that. It's too dangerous.
You're obviously not familiar with the OP. Took this guy 14 hours to replace a valve cover gasket.
You're obviously not familiar with the OP. Took this guy 14 hours to replace a valve cover gasket.
#13
Beach Bum
The 'two hammer technique' I use for tapered bolts did not work for removing the steering damper from a Currie drag-link. But it works great on steering knuckles.
#14
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I use this for tie rods, ball joints, and anything else that uses a tapered bolt that you have to remove. This also has less chance of destroying a boot like a pickle fork.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
#15
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lehigh Valley PA
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 renix
Meh...if you spray some pb blaster onto the boot a bit before taking a pickle fork to it, it should only take a few solid whacks. I was shocked how easy all the tre's and castle nuts came off on mine, and it's an 89. Granted I wasn't re-using them, but if I wanted to the boots would have still been fine to re-use. The only problematic part is (usually) the track bar (both the frame and axle ends can be a pain, either the axle side can get wallowed out, and the frame side's castle nut can be a real pita, resulting in having to remove the frame mount and/or use an air chisel) - but tie rod ends/stabilizer should usually be easy to swap out. Again, this is going on faith of someone that can at least turn a wrench.
A cheap pickle fork is usually good enough honestly. I got one on amazon for like $9 and have used it quite a bit and it has held up perfectly fine. Why spend a ton of money on something you're gonna be beating with a hammer anyway right?
A cheap pickle fork is usually good enough honestly. I got one on amazon for like $9 and have used it quite a bit and it has held up perfectly fine. Why spend a ton of money on something you're gonna be beating with a hammer anyway right?
Last edited by Stabsthedrama; 10-31-2014 at 09:31 AM.