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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Hope this is the right place to ask this question. So my driver's floor pan has rust on it. I've wire wheeled, scraped the scale and loose pieces off to where it's pretty good. I have POR 15 which I'm applying to the entire area.
What products has anyone used to clean, degrease, and etch the metal before applying POR 15 besides their own (expensive) Cleaner Degreaser & Metal Prep? Both of those products are water based so I know whatever I use needs to be water-based. I was thinking Simple Green and Klean Strip Prep & Etch. Both are water-based products so they should work, right?
If anyone has used something different with great/good results, please let me know. Thanks
I always use lacquer thinner to clean a metal surface that I am going to paint, no matter what kind of paint I am going to use, be sure it has all evaporated before you start to paint and it will be fine.
I can't enlarge your pictures but it looks like you took it down to clean metal. I would think about not using POR 15 if so. On rusty metal when you just get all the loose stuff off all day long. For me the jury is still out on clean metal. I have wire wheeled, cleaned with Purple Power, but used their Metal Prep on cleaner metals. Also used more and prepped longer then the instructions say to with the Metal Prep. Plus remember you have to rinse and let dry completely after each step. Can't see that being to much fun when doing floors.
If you’re going to clean it to mostly bare metal it’s best to just use rust converter and then epoxy primer. Most guys that restore cars use epoxy primer. Then your topcoat needs to be solid to block any moisture or air penetration. I would use Monstaliner or something similar.
I have an XJ that I sprayed with rust converter in a few spots. I sprayed regular lacquer based filler primer over some and some spots I never primed and none of it has rusted through even after sitting outside for almost 2 years. I also have another which I sprayed all the new steering components with epoxy paint before installing and it’s driven daily and not garaged and has been through 2 harsh Connecticut salty winters and they have not rusted yet. So I know if combined those two products would hold up well.
I have thought a lot about using POR but I just can’t get myself to pay so much. I have also researched the heck out of the subject and what I have done is quite common with good results.
To actually answer your question though any type of solvent based paint prep should work. But I would check with the product manufacturer because they probably won’t guarantee it if you don’t use their preparation methods. They also state it works better on rusty metal than clean.
If you’re going to clean it to mostly bare metal it’s best to just use rust converter and then epoxy primer. Most guys that restore cars use epoxy primer. Then your topcoat needs to be solid to block any moisture or air penetration. I would use Monstaliner or something similar.
I have an XJ that I sprayed with rust converter in a few spots. I sprayed regular lacquer based filler primer over some and some spots I never primed and none of it has rusted through even after sitting outside for almost 2 years. I also have another which I sprayed all the new steering components with epoxy paint before installing and it’s driven daily and not garaged and has been through 2 harsh Connecticut salty winters and they have not rusted yet. So I know if combined those two products would hold up well.
I have thought a lot about using POR but I just can’t get myself to pay so much. I have also researched the heck out of the subject and what I have done is quite common with good results.
Well, I already have the POR 15 & Monstaliner. Only a quart of each but I paid good $$$ for them both so they're going down. After the POR I'm applying Monstaliner on the drivers and passenger floor pans, bumpers, and whatever else I decide. I just want to know how I can get around having to buy POR's products yet still get a decent result that may last a few or more years
I have never used POR15 but I have used Chassis Saver many many times.
But to really clean and prep any surface for painting I always use compressed air to get as much dust off as possible then use a damp clean rag to scrub away the dirt/rusty particles/whatever else. I scrub a little then rinse the rag in clean water then repeat. then used compressed air again to dry the area very well then final step is lacquer thinner and as said above it dries and your left with a nicely prepped surface.
I am no pro and people may disagree but I have had nothing but good results over many many applications through the years by using this method
To actually answer your question though any type of solvent based paint prep should work. But I would check with the product manufacturer because they probably won’t guarantee it if you don’t use their preparation methods. They also state it works better on rusty metal than clean.
Both of POR's products are water-based. I did call and speak to technical support and of course, they'll 'always' say you "need" to use our product for it to work. I'm just checking to see if anyone has used anything outside of POR's recommended products and had a decent result. I'm not worried about it being guaranteed. I just want it to last for a couple years till I decide to retire my '01 and get a new one.
I have never used POR15 but I have used Chassis Saver many many times.
But to really clean and prep any surface for painting I always use compressed air to get as much dust off as possible then use a damp clean rag to scrub away the dirt/rusty particles/whatever else. I scrub a little then rinse the rag in clean water then repeat. then used compressed air again to dry the area very well then final step is lacquer thinner and as said above it dries and your left with a nicely prepped surface.
I am no pro and people may disagree but I have had nothing but good results over many many applications through the years by using this method
I'm removing the loose and flaking rust and cleaning the ship out of everything. After rust removal, I'm using Acetone to wipe it all down. Like you I'm no pro but I feel if done as close to 100% as possible, the protection POR 15 provides should last a few years
Last edited by DaRock; 06-08-2018 at 08:54 PM.
Reason: changed a word to make it G rated
I can't enlarge your pictures but it looks like you took it down to clean metal. I would think about not using POR 15 if so. On rusty metal when you just get all the loose stuff off all day long. For me the jury is still out on clean metal. I have wire wheeled, cleaned with Purple Power, but used their Metal Prep on cleaner metals. Also used more and prepped longer then the instructions say to with the Metal Prep. Plus remember you have to rinse and let dry completely after each step. Can't see that being to much fun when doing floors.
When I first started messing with POR 15 I bought a starter kit. No idea what I was doing and wanted to check it out. I was just doing small areas under my Jeep that were rusty. I wire brushed everything I wanted to do. Used their chemicals in the kit to prep. Layed down 2 coats. So everything that was rusty that I prepped and coated is fine. Now at the time my understanding was that POR 15 did not keep well. So the little bit that I had left in that 4 oz can I just started slapping around under the Jeep. No prep. On the cleaner metal it peeled off in less then a year. On the rusty metal it still worked well. This is a shot of my gas tank heat shield. I did not even wire brush it let alone prep. This is after being under the Jeep for 2 years which is when I hung a gas tank skid. If you are just looking to get a couple years out of it I would lay down the POR 15, use whatever chemicals, if any, you want to prep, but would not waste the Monstaliner on the floors then. Especially since you also bought the Monstaliner to do other things.
I had most of my roof down to clean metal. I used por for it a few years back and it is still perfect. What I did was heavily sand with 60-80 grit sandpaper to give some tooth for the por to stick to. But more importantly use a respirator at the very least and out doors. Buy something like this
When I first started messing with POR 15 I bought a starter kit. No idea what I was doing and wanted to check it out. I was just doing small areas under my Jeep that were rusty. I wire brushed everything I wanted to do. Used their chemicals in the kit to prep. Layed down 2 coats. So everything that was rusty that I prepped and coated is fine. Now at the time my understanding was that POR 15 did not keep well. So the little bit that I had left in that 4 oz can I just started slapping around under the Jeep. No prep. On the cleaner metal it peeled off in less then a year. On the rusty metal it still worked well. This is a shot of my gas tank heat shield. I did not even wire brush it let alone prep. This is after being under the Jeep for 2 years which is when I hung a gas tank skid. If you are just looking to get a couple years out of it I would lay down the POR 15, use whatever chemicals, if any, you want to prep, but would not waste the Monstaliner on the floors then. Especially since you also bought the Monstaliner to do other things.
That's what I decided to do. Just use Monstaliner on the bumpers, POR 15 the driver's floor, a few other areas inside and underneath
I had most of my roof down to clean metal. I used por for it a few years back and it is still perfect. What I did was heavily sand with 60-80 grit sandpaper to give some tooth for the por to stick to. But more importantly use a respirator at the very least and out doors. Buy something like this
06-08-2018, 02:25 PM
POR 15 question
