POR 15 question
#1
Member
Thread Starter
POR 15 question
Hope this is the right place to ask this question. So my driver's floor pan has rust on it. I've wire wheeled, scraped the scale and loose pieces off to where it's pretty good. I have POR 15 which I'm applying to the entire area.
What products has anyone used to clean, degrease, and etch the metal before applying POR 15 besides their own (expensive) Cleaner Degreaser & Metal Prep? Both of those products are water based so I know whatever I use needs to be water-based. I was thinking Simple Green and Klean Strip Prep & Etch. Both are water-based products so they should work, right?
If anyone has used something different with great/good results, please let me know. Thanks
Sorry, no idea why my pics are not straight
What products has anyone used to clean, degrease, and etch the metal before applying POR 15 besides their own (expensive) Cleaner Degreaser & Metal Prep? Both of those products are water based so I know whatever I use needs to be water-based. I was thinking Simple Green and Klean Strip Prep & Etch. Both are water-based products so they should work, right?
If anyone has used something different with great/good results, please let me know. Thanks
Sorry, no idea why my pics are not straight
Last edited by DaRock; 06-08-2018 at 08:21 PM.
#2
CF Veteran
I always use lacquer thinner to clean a metal surface that I am going to paint, no matter what kind of paint I am going to use, be sure it has all evaporated before you start to paint and it will be fine.
#3
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I can't enlarge your pictures but it looks like you took it down to clean metal. I would think about not using POR 15 if so. On rusty metal when you just get all the loose stuff off all day long. For me the jury is still out on clean metal. I have wire wheeled, cleaned with Purple Power, but used their Metal Prep on cleaner metals. Also used more and prepped longer then the instructions say to with the Metal Prep. Plus remember you have to rinse and let dry completely after each step. Can't see that being to much fun when doing floors.
#4
CF Veteran
If you’re going to clean it to mostly bare metal it’s best to just use rust converter and then epoxy primer. Most guys that restore cars use epoxy primer. Then your topcoat needs to be solid to block any moisture or air penetration. I would use Monstaliner or something similar.
I have an XJ that I sprayed with rust converter in a few spots. I sprayed regular lacquer based filler primer over some and some spots I never primed and none of it has rusted through even after sitting outside for almost 2 years. I also have another which I sprayed all the new steering components with epoxy paint before installing and it’s driven daily and not garaged and has been through 2 harsh Connecticut salty winters and they have not rusted yet. So I know if combined those two products would hold up well.
I have thought a lot about using POR but I just can’t get myself to pay so much. I have also researched the heck out of the subject and what I have done is quite common with good results.
I have an XJ that I sprayed with rust converter in a few spots. I sprayed regular lacquer based filler primer over some and some spots I never primed and none of it has rusted through even after sitting outside for almost 2 years. I also have another which I sprayed all the new steering components with epoxy paint before installing and it’s driven daily and not garaged and has been through 2 harsh Connecticut salty winters and they have not rusted yet. So I know if combined those two products would hold up well.
I have thought a lot about using POR but I just can’t get myself to pay so much. I have also researched the heck out of the subject and what I have done is quite common with good results.
#5
CF Veteran
To actually answer your question though any type of solvent based paint prep should work. But I would check with the product manufacturer because they probably won’t guarantee it if you don’t use their preparation methods. They also state it works better on rusty metal than clean.
#6
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Thread Starter
If you’re going to clean it to mostly bare metal it’s best to just use rust converter and then epoxy primer. Most guys that restore cars use epoxy primer. Then your topcoat needs to be solid to block any moisture or air penetration. I would use Monstaliner or something similar.
I have an XJ that I sprayed with rust converter in a few spots. I sprayed regular lacquer based filler primer over some and some spots I never primed and none of it has rusted through even after sitting outside for almost 2 years. I also have another which I sprayed all the new steering components with epoxy paint before installing and it’s driven daily and not garaged and has been through 2 harsh Connecticut salty winters and they have not rusted yet. So I know if combined those two products would hold up well.
I have thought a lot about using POR but I just can’t get myself to pay so much. I have also researched the heck out of the subject and what I have done is quite common with good results.
I have an XJ that I sprayed with rust converter in a few spots. I sprayed regular lacquer based filler primer over some and some spots I never primed and none of it has rusted through even after sitting outside for almost 2 years. I also have another which I sprayed all the new steering components with epoxy paint before installing and it’s driven daily and not garaged and has been through 2 harsh Connecticut salty winters and they have not rusted yet. So I know if combined those two products would hold up well.
I have thought a lot about using POR but I just can’t get myself to pay so much. I have also researched the heck out of the subject and what I have done is quite common with good results.
#7
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I have never used POR15 but I have used Chassis Saver many many times.
But to really clean and prep any surface for painting I always use compressed air to get as much dust off as possible then use a damp clean rag to scrub away the dirt/rusty particles/whatever else. I scrub a little then rinse the rag in clean water then repeat. then used compressed air again to dry the area very well then final step is lacquer thinner and as said above it dries and your left with a nicely prepped surface.
I am no pro and people may disagree but I have had nothing but good results over many many applications through the years by using this method
But to really clean and prep any surface for painting I always use compressed air to get as much dust off as possible then use a damp clean rag to scrub away the dirt/rusty particles/whatever else. I scrub a little then rinse the rag in clean water then repeat. then used compressed air again to dry the area very well then final step is lacquer thinner and as said above it dries and your left with a nicely prepped surface.
I am no pro and people may disagree but I have had nothing but good results over many many applications through the years by using this method
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#8
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Thread Starter
To actually answer your question though any type of solvent based paint prep should work. But I would check with the product manufacturer because they probably won’t guarantee it if you don’t use their preparation methods. They also state it works better on rusty metal than clean.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
I have never used POR15 but I have used Chassis Saver many many times.
But to really clean and prep any surface for painting I always use compressed air to get as much dust off as possible then use a damp clean rag to scrub away the dirt/rusty particles/whatever else. I scrub a little then rinse the rag in clean water then repeat. then used compressed air again to dry the area very well then final step is lacquer thinner and as said above it dries and your left with a nicely prepped surface.
I am no pro and people may disagree but I have had nothing but good results over many many applications through the years by using this method
But to really clean and prep any surface for painting I always use compressed air to get as much dust off as possible then use a damp clean rag to scrub away the dirt/rusty particles/whatever else. I scrub a little then rinse the rag in clean water then repeat. then used compressed air again to dry the area very well then final step is lacquer thinner and as said above it dries and your left with a nicely prepped surface.
I am no pro and people may disagree but I have had nothing but good results over many many applications through the years by using this method
Last edited by DaRock; 06-08-2018 at 08:54 PM. Reason: changed a word to make it G rated
#10
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Thread Starter
I can't enlarge your pictures but it looks like you took it down to clean metal. I would think about not using POR 15 if so. On rusty metal when you just get all the loose stuff off all day long. For me the jury is still out on clean metal. I have wire wheeled, cleaned with Purple Power, but used their Metal Prep on cleaner metals. Also used more and prepped longer then the instructions say to with the Metal Prep. Plus remember you have to rinse and let dry completely after each step. Can't see that being to much fun when doing floors.
#11
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When I first started messing with POR 15 I bought a starter kit. No idea what I was doing and wanted to check it out. I was just doing small areas under my Jeep that were rusty. I wire brushed everything I wanted to do. Used their chemicals in the kit to prep. Layed down 2 coats. So everything that was rusty that I prepped and coated is fine. Now at the time my understanding was that POR 15 did not keep well. So the little bit that I had left in that 4 oz can I just started slapping around under the Jeep. No prep. On the cleaner metal it peeled off in less then a year. On the rusty metal it still worked well. This is a shot of my gas tank heat shield. I did not even wire brush it let alone prep. This is after being under the Jeep for 2 years which is when I hung a gas tank skid. If you are just looking to get a couple years out of it I would lay down the POR 15, use whatever chemicals, if any, you want to prep, but would not waste the Monstaliner on the floors then. Especially since you also bought the Monstaliner to do other things.
#12
CF Veteran
You can put POR15 on clean metal but it needs to be well keyed otherwise it'll just peel off in a big sheet.
#13
Seasoned Member
I had most of my roof down to clean metal. I used por for it a few years back and it is still perfect. What I did was heavily sand with 60-80 grit sandpaper to give some tooth for the por to stick to. But more importantly use a respirator at the very least and out doors. Buy something like this
Not the cheap particle mask.
This stuff is terrible to breathe in.
Not the cheap particle mask.
This stuff is terrible to breathe in.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
When I first started messing with POR 15 I bought a starter kit. No idea what I was doing and wanted to check it out. I was just doing small areas under my Jeep that were rusty. I wire brushed everything I wanted to do. Used their chemicals in the kit to prep. Layed down 2 coats. So everything that was rusty that I prepped and coated is fine. Now at the time my understanding was that POR 15 did not keep well. So the little bit that I had left in that 4 oz can I just started slapping around under the Jeep. No prep. On the cleaner metal it peeled off in less then a year. On the rusty metal it still worked well. This is a shot of my gas tank heat shield. I did not even wire brush it let alone prep. This is after being under the Jeep for 2 years which is when I hung a gas tank skid. If you are just looking to get a couple years out of it I would lay down the POR 15, use whatever chemicals, if any, you want to prep, but would not waste the Monstaliner on the floors then. Especially since you also bought the Monstaliner to do other things.
#15
Member
Thread Starter
I had most of my roof down to clean metal. I used por for it a few years back and it is still perfect. What I did was heavily sand with 60-80 grit sandpaper to give some tooth for the por to stick to. But more importantly use a respirator at the very least and out doors. Buy something like this
Not the cheap particle mask.
This stuff is terrible to breathe in.
Not the cheap particle mask.
This stuff is terrible to breathe in.