Possible fix for (my) death wobble
#16
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just tore the hell out of a mud hole and went down some pretty extreme 4 wheeler trails and it seems to work pretty well. Hasn't DW'ed once
#17
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok this is getting ridiculous. I have DW every now and then very unpredictably. I have found that it WILL ONLY do it between 52 and 55 and has to be slowed to 45 or sped up to 60 to get it to stop. I have also found that sticking it in 4 hi also seems to stop it instantly. There is no telling when it will or won't do it. I can set my cruise at 53 and yank the wheel back and forth and it won't do it yet I can very slightly turn to the left to make a curve in a highway and it will do it. I can say that 0 to 50 and 60 to 120 is smooth as silk but anywhere between 50-60, it make a pretty bad shake in the front end SOMETIMES!!!. I have decided to let the pros take a look at it up on a lift cuz I'm stumped. I have half a mind to just throw a new stabilizer on it and call it good till I get an entire lift kit
#20
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
We fixed my death wobble in my first Jeep with new tires after we had already changed just about everything else in the front end. Good luck! I know how scary and annoying it is.
#22
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok so Sears can't find one loose part in the front end but did notice that my Camber is leaning to the right on both wheels. The left on is just out of spec while the right one is just on the verge of being out. That and I'm toed in .4 degrees but I don't think any of this is the problem. My wheels have been full of mud and it never made a difference so I don't think tires or balance is the problem. I'll get that alignment perfect and replace my ball joints next and see if it helps
#23
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What did they say your castor was set at. A typical alignment shop will set it at 4 degrees. For a lifted cherokee I suggest 6 or 7 degrees. Helps greatly with handling.
You know they can't adjust camber without some cheesey ball joints, right?
You know they can't adjust camber without some cheesey ball joints, right?
#24
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok so Sears can't find one loose part in the front end but did notice that my Camber is leaning to the right on both wheels. The left on is just out of spec while the right one is just on the verge of being out. That and I'm toed in .4 degrees but I don't think any of this is the problem. My wheels have been full of mud and it never made a difference so I don't think tires or balance is the problem. I'll get that alignment perfect and replace my ball joints next and see if it helps
As you know you need ball joints, you really have to start there.
Yes, control arms are also high on the suspect list if your DW continues after ball joints and alignment.
#25
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Year: 1993
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Both were negative .1 or so. I meant give the tie rod a good crank toed out so it might be closer to in spec. I'm gonna get the professional alignment done after the ball joints
#26
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Are only lifted Jeeps susceptible to death wobble? Is it a recall thing? Now I'm nervous about putting a lift on my XJ.
#27
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Adding a lift increases your opportunity to experience it.
#28
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Year: 1993
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They ALL can do it but lifting them makes it more likely since you are messing with the steering geometry and such. Hell I had a 2 wheel drive not lifted do it cuz of a bad tire
#29
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got it. New stabilizer, re balanced front wheels, and gave the tie rod a good crank. Can't get it to do it at all. Been trying for 3 days now
#30
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6 cylinder
Originally Posted by XJdryva
Got it. New stabilizer, re balanced front wheels, and gave the tie rod a good crank. Can't get it to do it at all. Been trying for 3 days now