Power steering gear box
07-27-2019, 10:33 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
An old friend of my dad who build hot rods said that many classic car builders use the jeeps steering shafts in their applications which really surprised me. He said they do so because they are collapsible once the “glue “ is out and will fit many different applications. I was just going to heat it just enough to get it to move slightly and taking his advice I cleaned all of the glue or whatever it was and greased it like he said. I also placed a wet towel over the rubber upper section. You only have to heat it right at the joint where the thinner channel goes into the larger upper channel. I then just pulled it apart and let it cool a bit before I started collapsing and extending it until all of the funk was cleaned out. I HOPE I didn’t ruin anything!!!!! I’ll keep you posted Jeepwalker if I run into any issues with it.
07-27-2019, 11:08 PM
#32
Member
Thread Starter
FYI there is only a few inches of the lower (smaller) channel that goes into the upper channel of the steering shaft! I wish I would have taken pic for everyone. I was really surprised just how little of distance the two pieces contact each other.
07-28-2019, 01:15 AM
#33
CF Veteran
Sorry if I sounded like a jerk.
I'm guessing the majority of returned steering boxes get a cleaning, teardown, inspect parts for obvious damage and discard those parts, then ...new seals, recirculating ball assembly, bearings and torque to specs and (maybe) test, that's probably about it. The worm screws generally don't wear that much. The metal is SO hard.
Some common things that can wear out a steering box are water can seep in around the top input seal and rust the top bearing where the stub shaft sticks out. Running oversized tires I'm going to assume can cause excessive lower output shaft bearing wear. I've seen both those issues on steering boxes I've rebuilt. Had one the top bearing was incredibly rusty. Just a little bit of 'play' in any steering component close to the steering box can be magnified to a lot of steering play at the steering wheel.
I'd get the steering box you feel has the best warranty. I've had really good luck with AC Delco quality rebuilt parts. I haven't had too many failures. I have a Cardone rebuilt steering box downstairs I bought for a classic car for $25 at a sale (haven't put on yet). Heck for all we know they might source them from the same rebuilder. Don't screw with it once you install it. Make sure ALL he other components are in good shape, including the lower bearing in the column, intermediate shaft, etc. Put the intermediate shaft in a vice and hook a vice grips to one end and see if there is ANY detectable 'play' in the joints. Even a little will cause a lot of steering wheel movement.
I'm guessing the majority of returned steering boxes get a cleaning, teardown, inspect parts for obvious damage and discard those parts, then ...new seals, recirculating ball assembly, bearings and torque to specs and (maybe) test, that's probably about it. The worm screws generally don't wear that much. The metal is SO hard.
Some common things that can wear out a steering box are water can seep in around the top input seal and rust the top bearing where the stub shaft sticks out. Running oversized tires I'm going to assume can cause excessive lower output shaft bearing wear. I've seen both those issues on steering boxes I've rebuilt. Had one the top bearing was incredibly rusty. Just a little bit of 'play' in any steering component close to the steering box can be magnified to a lot of steering play at the steering wheel.
I'd get the steering box you feel has the best warranty. I've had really good luck with AC Delco quality rebuilt parts. I haven't had too many failures. I have a Cardone rebuilt steering box downstairs I bought for a classic car for $25 at a sale (haven't put on yet). Heck for all we know they might source them from the same rebuilder. Don't screw with it once you install it. Make sure ALL he other components are in good shape, including the lower bearing in the column, intermediate shaft, etc. Put the intermediate shaft in a vice and hook a vice grips to one end and see if there is ANY detectable 'play' in the joints. Even a little will cause a lot of steering wheel movement.
Mine isn't leaking but I feel like I'm driving a damn bus down the road just to keep her straight in my lane. When I've had enough of this one, I'm going Redhead period. They cost more, but are actually rebuilt the way they are supposed to be in the first place.
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89build66 (07-28-2019)
07-28-2019, 11:50 AM
#34
Member
Thread Starter
Collapsing xj steering column
It was probably set in poly from the factory ...and not supposed to collapse (except in the case of a severe accident). The plastic will 'snap' and allow movement. You probably damaged it by heating it up, I hate to say, but if it's still tight.. Why didn't you just loosen the steering column bolts and slide it back?
But now that you have the new box on it, you can do the new steering box a big favor by not cranking on the steering wheel unless the engine is actually running (using the 'power assist').
Glad it steers tight now..
But now that you have the new box on it, you can do the new steering box a big favor by not cranking on the steering wheel unless the engine is actually running (using the 'power assist').
Glad it steers tight now..
07-28-2019, 04:06 PM
#35
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Seattle
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
When I was pulling my steering gear out, I was having problems sliding the collar up off the gear input spline. I pried it up a bit, but it just did not want to go all the way off. When I pulled the gear out, the collar stayed on, but the shaft separated in the middle. No heat was applied there. I greased the shaft and put it back together. I did not notice any torsional movement in it when I put it back together (I dod check for it). Seemed like in my case the reason it did not want to slide far enough in was a bit of rust on the inner portion of the shaft.
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89build66 (07-28-2019)
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