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Power window woes- switches replaced- ds rear still just goes down

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Old 01-09-2021, 12:05 PM
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Default Power window woes- switches replaced- ds rear still just goes down

As title states, already replaced ds master switch and ds rear door switch. Also bought additional window regulator. DS rear window only goes down with rear switch, but will not go up. Window Will not go down or up with new or original front master switch. What’s next? Inspect wiring? I have an multimeter but only know how to use it with basic functions. I am ok with mechanical repairs but absolutely hate wiring issues. Thanks
Old 01-09-2021, 05:59 PM
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This diagram is for a 2001 but I believe it should be the same.

I suspect a broken wire between the rear switch and the front switch, most likely in either front ot rear door harness where is passes from the door to the body. It should be the Red/Black wire. I would suggest unplugging the rear door connector and window switch first, see if you do have a Red/Black wire and if so, check for continuity between both connectors. If you don't have a Red/Black wire, just test all colours match both connectors. If you find no continuity faults, try the same on the front door then if needed, between both body connectors.

Power comes from the front switch, into the rear switch. Ground is also supplied in the same way. When you select up or down, one side of the motor switches to live and the other ground. As you can make the window go down, there is a power feed to the motor and one ground working, but one not working.


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Old 01-09-2021, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by boxburn
This diagram is for a 2001 but I believe it should be the same.

I suspect a broken wire between the rear switch and the front switch, most likely in either front ot rear door harness where is passes from the door to the body. It should be the Red/Black wire. I would suggest unplugging the rear door connector and window switch first, see if you do have a Red/Black wire and if so, check for continuity between both connectors. If you don't have a Red/Black wire, just test all colours match both connectors. If you find no continuity faults, try the same on the front door then if needed, between both body connectors.

Power comes from the front switch, into the rear switch. Ground is also supplied in the same way. When you select up or down, one side of the motor switches to live and the other ground. As you can make the window go down, there is a power feed to the motor and one ground working, but one not working.

thank you, I will study this in the morning. Too tired right now.
Old 01-10-2021, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by boxburn
This diagram is for a 2001 but I believe it should be the same.

I suspect a broken wire between the rear switch and the front switch, most likely in either front ot rear door harness where is passes from the door to the body. It should be the Red/Black wire. I would suggest unplugging the rear door connector and window switch first, see if you do have a Red/Black wire and if so, check for continuity between both connectors. If you don't have a Red/Black wire, just test all colours match both connectors. If you find no continuity faults, try the same on the front door then if needed, between both body connectors.

Power comes from the front switch, into the rear switch. Ground is also supplied in the same way. When you select up or down, one side of the motor switches to live and the other ground. As you can make the window go down, there is a power feed to the motor and one ground working, but one not working.

. When I am checking continuity on the the red black wires- rear switch I should be seeing approx 12volts on my multimeter? If not, then proceed to check front switch?
Old 01-10-2021, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandaid nose man
. When I am checking continuity on the the red black wires- rear switch I should be seeing approx 12volts on my multimeter? If not, then proceed to check front switch?
A continuity test isn't looking for voltage. You want to set your meter to either 200 Ohms or the speaker looking symbol ))))). In both settings you are looking for a number close to 0. If you see 1 or OL, that shows no continuity. You may need to give the terminals a good scrape to get a good reading.

You are looking for a wire (which should be the Red/Black) where you cannot get a reading, and this would indicate a break.

When the door harness is disconnected there will be no power to the door. So you won't find a voltage.
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