How do you guys pressure test a radiator fresh out of the box, before installing in vehicle?

Anything special for blocking off the radiator hose openings?

Most important, some way around buying a special tool for hooking up the an air line?

 

I've never tested a radiator before installing. I think it wouldnt really be worth the effort

 

I have, but both were the old copper and brass. The inlets were tweaked on both and needed bent back for the hose to fit. Only reason i tested them was to make sure i didnt crack them.

 

Part of the problem is solved. O'Reilly has pressure testing tools available on the loaner program.

Should note also, and I need to find the A/C thread I was on a few weeks ago, they have the full compliment of loaner A/C manifold/vacuum/cleaner tools available too.

Now to figure out how to plug up the holes and pump one up to a bit over 16PSI.

 

Before I met my wife, she was doing QC for an auto parts manufacturer. It was her job to put air into the condenser / evaporator, fill with air and dunk into the tank of water.

I would assume that whoever manufactured the radiator would have some QC in effect. But, anyways I'd go to the big local hardware store, go to the plumbing section and describe what you need. I'd call it a rubber block off plug / cap. Might have to special order it off the internet, once you get the diameters figured out.

 

Yes, they are called drainage system test plugs. Then you use a regular radiator cap system tester to pump it up. I suggest you DON'T use an air hose because it's way too easy to screw up and blow it apart!

 

Noticed the loaner pressure test kit from O'Reilly has a hand pump.

 

Before ordering a radiator, going to dig under the hood a little deeper and see just how much of a leak I have and maybe JB Weld can take care of it. As it sits, it is not even leaking every day. If it is a tube or something hard to get to, then yep it is getting a new skookum rad.

 

If you pressure test your cooling system, just make sure you have the cooling system completely filled and maybe coolant slightly running out / overfilling at the radiator cap. It should only take a few pumps to bring the system to operating PSI specification, as found on the radiator cap.

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time on a JB Weld fix on something that sees extream tempertures, along with expansion and contraction. This is assuming you are going to JB weld the radiator. I'd recommend a quality 2 row radiator. Maybe new radiator hoses if they are questionable. I look at it this way. What's my time worth to me. Just a radiator replacement now, or get inconvenienced next year by a blown radiator hose, have to track down the part, find time to put it in, take out 1/2 the parts I already had out when the radiator was done, buy new coolant, and burp the system. I'd bet the cost of coolant would off set the cost of a radiator hose.

 

I have everything but the heater core and heater lines in the shopping cart now. But I haven't looked at the radiator's actual leak yet. Discovered it with dye a few days ago. Guessing probably I will be ordering the new radiator too. What I have in the Jeep now is a copper rad and Gates hoses that are about 15 years old or so. From other forums, for little stuff the JB Weld can work a long time.

Will know what I am going to do after I get home from work tomorrow and pull that upper radiator support off for a better look at the actual problem.

 

If you are going to keep the Jeep for awhile, take a look at my profile. In the profile under Misc Accessories is my slow build on another forum. You'll see what I did for silicon radiator hoses & heater hoses. Since the front end was apart, I also installed a transmission cooler.

In the near future, I'll be pulling the dash to rebuild the heater control box, install an ALL METAL heater core, and a new evaporator core.

 

I was considering silicone hoses a while back, but reality bit into my budget and this repair is getting the standard Gates radiator hoses with constant tension clamps.

However, those heater hoses are a candidate for silicone replacements in the spring. No sign of problems yet, but they came from the factory in 1996. Original heater core is still in there too, should be all metal if what I've been seeing from other 1996 XJ is the same with mine.

Also, going to start a more rigorous coolant replacement and system cleaning program. By more rigorous I mean actually changing and flushing every other year rather than waiting for a failure.

 

What a complete and total waste of time. I could install and remove one in the time that's been spent on asking the question and reading the replies.

 

You have the advantage of having a garage full of them on hand and ready to install. I do not.

 

No. I don't. I buy new ones and install them. If one leaked, which has never happened in the course of all the radiators I've replaced, I would remove it and install a replacement.

Seems like in your mind the new radiator is already leaking before it's installed.

Is it used? If so, leaks should be apparent. If that's the case, don't use that one.

Or, take whatever you have to a radiator shop and pay to have it pressure checked.

I'm confused now as to what the actual situation is. New, used, garage full?????