Jeepergirl

Hello, I Have a 1999 XJ sport (4 door) that I was trying to remove the door check in the left front door and I noticed that I can't get it out do to the window track mount in the way.

I'm figuring that it was replaced earlier with the wrong door check which is not hard to believe since the previous owner was a "Mechanic" and I'm constantly having to get small things properly fixed. Anybody have any idea how to get it out before I start with the destructive methods?

Thank you

Ralph77

I don't remember doing anything weird when I replaced them in both my front doors on my '00.
Doesn't mean I did not though.
So my guess is if I did have that problem I loosened a couple of the bolts to the window regulator.
Which made it so I could move it out of the way just enough to pull the door check out.
Or maybe I removed my speaker and pulled it out through there.
Sorry I don't really remember.
Don't remember it being that difficult either though.

cpttuna

I think I removed the speaker and did not have to mess with the regulator.

awg

here is some relevant info pertaining to your year model and issue

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDoorHinge.htm

I had no issue R&R a front driver door item several times (but on a '96 pre-update"), as it made a frightful cracking sound every time you open or close the door

I could not rectify it, so decided to remove the check strap

Have you consulted the FSM ?.........dont want to sound silly, but we have all been caught dismantling doors and having to wind the window up & down to get at all the items

Sirsyc0

Not to hijack this thing, but what brand door checks are you guys using? I need one.

Ralph77

I went with Mopar for the door check, pin, and bracket.
Frankly don't think it was necessary but said screw it.

Dsword

I just replaced both of my front door checks on my 1998. You can see one of them in the pictures had come completely apart. It must have jammed and someone forced it open.

You do not remove the window regulator or any of the window channels. It is very tricky to get the door check headed in the right direction. Remove your speaker. GENTLY push the wire bundle IN, towards the outside of the door and you can wiggle it through that area next to the wire bundle and out the speaker hole.

Refitting the new door check is just as tricky. Put a piece of stiff wire through the pin hole of the door check end and push the wire up through the door check hole in the door. Then gently pull it up toward that hole, again, gently pushing the wire bundle to the side and using your other hand to feed it through.

The new ones from Dorman come pre-greased. I found them on sale for $23 each at some random auto parts store. If the pin hole in the door check bracket (mounted on the door frame) is worn even a little bit, this allows the pin to get slapped around in the pin hole when the door check springs activate at partial open and full open. This is what makes the cracking sound. I went to the boneyard and got the rear door check brackets out of a 2000 that were like new, with low usage of course being in the rear. They allow for quiet operation of the door check and no more having the door close on your leg!

Sig220

Good pics! I just replaced mine with a junkyard pull a couple of weeks ago. Once the speaker is out of the way, I just kept the nose of the door check angled up and got in right in. Of course, I only lifted the door part and not the frame bracket. Took mine off a 99 passenger door. Should have grabbed both parts. Within a week it had popped the pin out that holds them together, never found it, so just replaced with a 6mm metric screw.......no nut and that has been a charm so far.

Wish I could find new ones for $23... I would keep a couple back for the lean, dark years! Lol

318SixPack

1996 XJ 360,000 mi.
I finally replaced the driver's side check pin. First I tried an identical replacement from Dorman, but noticed some hardware at Ace Hardware and put something together that seems a bit more skookum.

Shoulder bolt, stainless washer, lock nut.
Watched a few videos on the repair Dsword did. Dsword's post is more informative.
I pulled another from the passenger side of a 1995 at the junk yard. No rubber block part at the end and the door was working fine. The Dorman part says it fits both sides and I don't see why the factory passenger one wouldn't work fine on the driver's side either.
The repair I made is holding well, pin/screw isn't twisting or turning at all. I have the stuff to do the passenger side too, but it is still hanging in there. Have video of it, one of these days will get that edited and posted someplace.

Dsword

318SixPack - You are correct, all the door checks are the same and you simply flip them 90 degrees from side to side. Same thing with the brackets. Front and back are the same too if you have a four door.

I considered just moving my rear pin brackets to the front but there are a bunch of XJs at my local boneyard.

cruiser54

check the length of the arms front vs rear.

Dsword

Thanks for the info cruiser54 - I assumed they were the same, but the rear door checks on my '98 are almost an inch longer than the front. Interestingly, I did a quick search on the web for rears and did not see any available for sale. I may have to grab a couple from the boneyard for future inventory.

Ralph77

See that is cause you did not ask me. LOL.
Part number is 55075259AB.
I have already replaced my fronts. With Mopar ones despite there being cheaper alternatives out there.
I just said screw it.
But this thread got me thinking about the backs. So I started poking around.
So it appears no aftermarket support for the rear.
Also did not find any from an online Mopar Dealer.
Found a couple Mopar ones on Ebay. $35 for one, another at $49, and a third at almost $68.
Plus Morris seems to have one for $72.
But then pay dirt.

https://teamcherokee.com/rear-door-c...kee-1984-2001/

Assuming I am reading the description correctly they say they are OEM.
So I ordered 2. There was just under $9 for shipping.
Oh and Amazon appears to have some too. MLOL.

Dsword

Thanks Ralph77 - Amazon = $268. Team Cherokee = $15. That's hilarious.

For $15 brand new, it's not worth my time and effort at the boneyard when he charges about $10 each. Even though I am retired...

Ralph77

I couldn't help myself. I had to post that Amazon link. LOL.
And that is what I figure. With the shipping they cost me like $19.50 each.
I am retired too and even though rear doors are used less and boneyard ones probably would be fine I figure screw it.
Even if you could get them for $5 each I figure at that price.....
I am hesitant that they are actually OEM but seeing how I can't find any aftermarket ones........
Also I might be swapping in a more rust free passenger side rear door in my '00.
So I figure while I am there use at least one of them.