Problems trying to get my jeep to start. Help
#19
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#20
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#23
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Ok i tested the ground for the tps, with ohms, I got a reading of 1.7 ohms.
I read on another post of yours (Cruiser54) that the solve for that is another ground from the sensor ground harness by the dipstick, to the inner fender thats a 8mm stud right?
I bought 11mm nut for the stud, it didnt fit....
I also tested the voltage again from a to c to get the output voltage again, Key on I got 0.00 again, so I turned the engine on and got a reading of 0.03, I was using the lowest setting i had.
I read on another post of yours (Cruiser54) that the solve for that is another ground from the sensor ground harness by the dipstick, to the inner fender thats a 8mm stud right?
I bought 11mm nut for the stud, it didnt fit....
I also tested the voltage again from a to c to get the output voltage again, Key on I got 0.00 again, so I turned the engine on and got a reading of 0.03, I was using the lowest setting i had.
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Just a second ago i tested b to c again just key on setting was on 2v DCV i got a reading of 0.02
So ive got a reading engine on of 0.03
and now i got a reading key on engine off, of 0.02
So ive got a reading engine on of 0.03
and now i got a reading key on engine off, of 0.02
#26
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Sounds like the TPS is bad.
Ohms are a little high for the sensor ground circuit.
Have you refreshed your grounds per my write-up?
Ohms are a little high for the sensor ground circuit.
Have you refreshed your grounds per my write-up?
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I have I refreshed the grounds cleaned them all, I also replaced the firewall ground cable, mounting it to a bolt on the heat shield,
I put a ground cable from the negative battery post to a radiator support bolt.
I read on another post that i need a ground from the sensor ground to a stud on the inner fender I havent don
I put a ground cable from the negative battery post to a radiator support bolt.
I read on another post that i need a ground from the sensor ground to a stud on the inner fender I havent don
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Today I did the new ground cable from the sensor ground, to the inner fender, but I am still getting 1.9 OHMS of resistance to the tps, Im puzzled.
Also I relaced the tps today, and I am still get 0.00 output voltage to the tps,
"A" to "B" I get 4.90 on my meter -- REFERENCE
"B" to "C" I get 0.00 on my meter -- OUTPUT VOLTAGE
"A" to "C" I get 4.90 on my meter -- Ground?
Do these wires lead back to the computer under the driver side dash, I think its the ECU?
And can i take the ECU out to check if the wires are all secured in?
What are the colors of the wires to the the tps connector?
I see a yellow and green one, and purple (or brown) and white one, and another
( 3 wires in total)
Help would be very much appriciated I cant figure out what to do, Id rather not take it to a mechanic, that might cost an arm and a leg.
Jeep , Just Empty Every Pocket..... Right
Also I relaced the tps today, and I am still get 0.00 output voltage to the tps,
"A" to "B" I get 4.90 on my meter -- REFERENCE
"B" to "C" I get 0.00 on my meter -- OUTPUT VOLTAGE
"A" to "C" I get 4.90 on my meter -- Ground?
Do these wires lead back to the computer under the driver side dash, I think its the ECU?
And can i take the ECU out to check if the wires are all secured in?
What are the colors of the wires to the the tps connector?
I see a yellow and green one, and purple (or brown) and white one, and another
( 3 wires in total)
Help would be very much appriciated I cant figure out what to do, Id rather not take it to a mechanic, that might cost an arm and a leg.
Jeep , Just Empty Every Pocket..... Right
#30
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What is B to ground in ohms? 1.7 or 1.8? What happens if you wiggle the harness along the valve cover during this test?
THIS is the fix for the sensor ground circuit for future reference:
Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.
Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.
Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.
You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.
Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.
Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement. I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.
Revised 03-09-12
THIS is the fix for the sensor ground circuit for future reference:
Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.
Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.
Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.
You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.
Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.
Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement. I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.
Revised 03-09-12
Last edited by cruiser54; 10-25-2012 at 04:54 PM.