Problems trying to get my jeep to start. Help
10-25-2012, 05:44 PM
#32
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
10-25-2012, 10:05 PM
#33
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Model: Cherokee
Ok so I found only 1 splice in my system, not 2...
all 5 Brown with white stipe wires were spliced into 1 Brown and white wire.
In your instructions it says I am supposed to find two splices? making a total of 6
I didnt find any other Brown and white wires
The looks of your picture help alot but am i supposed to take the 1 wire that the other 5 splice into and soldier them all together
all 5 Brown with white stipe wires were spliced into 1 Brown and white wire.
In your instructions it says I am supposed to find two splices? making a total of 6
I didnt find any other Brown and white wires
The looks of your picture help alot but am i supposed to take the 1 wire that the other 5 splice into and soldier them all together
Last edited by Kris503; 10-25-2012 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Miss wrote
10-25-2012, 10:10 PM
#34
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The number of splices varies from year to year. My instructions were written primarily for 87 and 88 models with the C101 connector. Bottom line is you want them all soldered together and have less than 1 ohm resistance when wiggling the harness. You wanna make sure the grounds for CTS, TPS, IAT, and MAP are all good.
11-11-2012, 05:55 AM
#37
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Year: 1990
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I don't have a pic.
Furthest back head bolt on the driver's side is a stud. The cable attaches there and runs directly up and behind to the firewall. 15mm headed bolt holding it on.
Furthest back head bolt on the driver's side is a stud. The cable attaches there and runs directly up and behind to the firewall. 15mm headed bolt holding it on.
11-14-2012, 07:30 PM
#38
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
I tried to remove/replace this braided cable. I used a 19mm deep socket but had very little awkward room to maneuver. Could not get the bolt to budge. If I had some pipe maybe I would extend my small 3/8 ratchet handle. I wasn’t able to get my 1/2” ratchet down in there. Very little clearance. I was also afraid I’d smash my hands into the fuel rail and random hoses above the intake manifold, so I decided not to press my luck. Should I get a pro mechanic to get the bolt loose for me? How important is it to have the bolt as tight as it currently is when I eventually remove/replace it?
11-14-2012, 08:29 PM
#39
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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I tried to remove/replace this braided cable. I used a 19mm deep socket but had very little awkward room to maneuver. Could not get the bolt to budge. If I had some pipe maybe I would extend my small 3/8 ratchet handle. I wasn’t able to get my 1/2” ratchet down in there. Very little clearance. I was also afraid I’d smash my hands into the fuel rail and random hoses above the intake manifold, so I decided not to press my luck. Should I get a pro mechanic to get the bolt loose for me? How important is it to have the bolt as tight as it currently is when I eventually remove/replace it?
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...x-tips-153657/
11-15-2012, 07:58 AM
#40
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
On a 1998 XJ, I already have a negative battery post connected to the fenderwell? So, the "fix" above seems to accomplish the same thing. Right? The braid goes from the engine to the firewall. Maybe the fix is only for older XJ's without the negative battery ground that the 98 already has?
Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.
Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.
11-15-2012, 02:57 PM
#41
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Year: 1990
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On a 1998 XJ, I already have a negative battery post connected to the fenderwell? So, the "fix" above seems to accomplish the same thing. Right? The braid goes from the engine to the firewall. Maybe the fix is only for older XJ's without the negative battery ground that the 98 already has?
Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.
Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.
11-19-2012, 06:29 PM
#43
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Year: 1990
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You don't need to drill. Isn't there a thin metal heat shield attached to the aluminum intake manifold?
Post a pic of your intake manifold if that will help.
Post a pic of your intake manifold if that will help.
11-19-2012, 07:02 PM
#45
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
On a 1998 XJ, I already have a negative battery post connected to the fenderwell? So, the "fix" above seems to accomplish the same thing. Right? The braid goes from the engine to the firewall. Maybe the fix is only for older XJ's without the negative battery ground that the 98 already has?
Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.
Oh, you meant "I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt."
Anyone have a picture of where I attach? I don't know what a heat shield or fuel rail bolt is.