Chases98

Just to start off I’m fairly new to this forum so I will try and explain what’s going on the best way possible.

I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2wd 4.0
i bought it about 6 months ago from an older woman for $1200. Engine and transmission run great! But almost every time I go to brake the vehicle around 50mph range I can feel pulsating in the brake pedal as well as vibration in the steering wheel. It honestly gets so bad to were it vigorously shakes the car until I let off of the brake. Ive seen on here already about possibly warped rotors, pads, wheel bearing. The only thing that confuses me is the ABS light on the dash always stays on and never cuts off.

When I bought the car from this older woman she had told me she went to go try and get the ABS fixed, then proceeded to say the shop was going to charge her around $1500 to repair it. I’ve heard a few times if your ABS light is on, it could cause those symptoms as a warped rotor. The car has both front/rear disc brakes, I’m just trying to avoid spending a arm and a leg on all brand new rotors and pads, if it could be something less expensive 😂

Dave51

Get an ABS Code Reader to determine exactly what the code(s) is for.

Get a dial indicator from HFT to see if the rotors are warped.

Also there's a Grand Cherokee Forum (this is XJ) where more specifics may be discussed.

lawsoncl

The ABS light could just be a bad ABS sensor and unrelated. It does sound like it needs at least the front brakes done. How are you mechanical skills?

fb97xj1

The ABS light can also be a dirty sensor. Dirt, rust, whatever. A tone ring could be damaged as well. Usually rust and/or damaged teeth. Wont know until someone looks at it.

4.3L XJ

Not sure about any codes. But I can just about guarantee you will be replacing the front rotors and pads. That would get rid of the pulsing and shaking. I would start with that.

BlueBalls

Had a similar problem with my 01 xj. It was necessary to purchase and replace hubs, rotors, front axle ujoints, pads, hardware for brake pads, flexible hoses, etc.
Also, it was necessary for me to get hold of a factory service manual. I needed to back probe and use my DVM. It took 5+ hours of pain stacking testing to verify each and every wire, sensor. This was not a code reader fix lol. Had to get cuts and grease under fingers.