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Put ZJ clutch fan in a XJ to keep cooler (it worked). Photos.

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Old 07-04-2012 | 10:21 AM
  #61  
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Yep, $36.99 at our local O'Reilly. Has anyone played with adjusting the center metal spring....say one turn looser or tighter?????
Old 07-04-2012 | 11:21 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by CrawlerYJ
Just enter the model number given 2737, nothing more, it shouldn't ask you the year/make/model
Ok, that worked.
Hmm........I'm wondering if that had already been done to my XJ. The old worn out fan clutch I took off, looked just like it while the new one I installed a few weeks ago, looks smaller and open on the front (no heat sink fins on the spring side).
Old 07-04-2012 | 11:40 AM
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I had the same fitment problem when i put in my fan clutch... I got the one from AZ for my 94 6cyl... But it didnt fit in without persuasion... Idk what happened but i got it in there and it works great now so i cant justify fixing an already working part plus to help my temp i run my E-fan a lot
Old 07-04-2012 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by djb383
Yep, $36.99 at our local O'Reilly. Has anyone played with adjusting the center metal spring....say one turn looser or tighter?????
I didn't know that did anything?
Old 07-04-2012 | 12:30 PM
  #65  
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The spring is a bi-metal strip that reacts (expands/contracts) to air temp. The outer end of the bi-metal spring is in a fixed location and the inner end of the metal spring turns the center (internal) mechanism of the fan clutch as the spring expands/contracts, winds/unwinds.

I'm wondering if anyone has experimented with changing the position of the fixed (outer) end of the spring which should also effect the other end of the spring....engage sooner/later, more/less fan speed in relation to pulley speed?????

Last edited by djb383; 07-04-2012 at 12:33 PM.
Old 07-04-2012 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by djb383
The spring is a bi-metal strip that reacts (expands/contracts) to air temp. The outer end of the bi-metal spring is in a fixed location and the inner end of the metal spring turns the center (internal) mechanism of the fan clutch as the spring expands/contracts, winds/unwinds.

I'm wondering if anyone has experimented with changing the position of the fixed (outer) end of the spring which should also effect the other end of the spring....engage sooner/later, more/less fan speed in relation to pulley speed?????
If that's true, it could move in shipment, and thus effect the out come of the clutch fan "on/off" during install? Someone should post up.
Old 07-04-2012 | 01:06 PM
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... just came back from autozone, you guys are making me spend $ on my heap lol
I told the counter person I need the hayden 2737 clutch fan. OTD with taxes $39.xx
I'll have it tomorrow.
I'll try to install it tomorrow.
and I'll try to get a video of it... tomorrow.

If I have time, I'll try to do a step by step for yous.
Old 07-04-2012 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bbasso
... just came back from autozone, you guys are making me spend $ on my heap lol
I told the counter person I need the hayden 2737 clutch fan. OTD with taxes $39.xx
I'll have it tomorrow.
I'll try to install it tomorrow.
and I'll try to get a video of it... tomorrow.

If I have time, I'll try to do a step by step for yous.
Awsome! Mine roars more than not. Curious how yours sounds.

Footnote: I replaced my fan clutch years ago on my YJ. I just looked it, and guess what? It's the same number! So, it's not just a ZJ clutch fan, it is also a YJ clutch fan.

Last edited by CrawlerXJ; 07-04-2012 at 01:58 PM.
Old 07-04-2012 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CrawlerYJ
If that's true, it could move in shipment,.......
Kinda doubt it.....the outer end of the spring would need to be forcibly/intentionally moved.
Old 07-04-2012 | 03:05 PM
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I don't understand this mod.

If you're overheating, and you've replaced the fan clutch, and you're still overheating... Then it isn't the fan clutch, and you don't need a bigger one. There's obviously some kind of underlying issue. The only thing you should have to do is drop a lower temp t-stat in it.

If you've done a flush, t-stat, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, and you're still running hot... Then it's probably your radiator that needs to be replaced, or there's a blockage somewhere.

It's been mid 80's - 90 degrees where I live, and I'm running 190* +/-. I'm guessing it's due to a lower temp t-stat the OP put in it. I've never had to touch my e-fan. Maybe you've got another issue somewhere???

Old 07-04-2012 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
I don't understand this mod.

If you're overheating, and you've replaced the fan clutch, and you're still overheating... Then it isn't the fan clutch, and you don't need a bigger one. There's obviously some kind of underlying issue. The only thing you should have to do is drop a lower temp t-stat in it.

If you've done a flush, t-stat, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, and you're still running hot... Then it's probably your radiator that needs to be replaced, or there's a blockage somewhere.

It's been mid 80's - 90 degrees where I live, and I'm running 190* +/-. I'm guessing it's due to a lower temp t-stat the OP put in it. I've never had to touch my e-fan. Maybe you've got another issue somewhere???

+1.....The only thing the fan clutch mod will "for sure" do is make noise, rob power and mpg. IF, and only IF, the stat temp is lowered will the fan clutch mod possibly lower coolant temp. The stat only is what determines MINIMUM coolant temp. All of the other cooling system components, their condition, ambient temp and driving conditions determine MAX coolant temps. More air flow thru the dinky XJ rad will lower coolant temp only slightly once the stat is fully open. The weak link in the XJ rad is the dinky radiator, not the fans or the stock fan clutch.

The fan clutch mod is a simple/easy to do bolt-on mod (and about the only cooling system mod)......now, if there was some way to (if it was offered) bolt-in an aluminum rad with dual 1.25" wide tubes that would be a major cooling improvement.....but there isn't.

Last edited by djb383; 07-04-2012 at 05:03 PM.
Old 07-15-2012 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by KJamesJR
I don't understand this mod.

If you're overheating, and you've replaced the fan clutch, and you're still overheating... Then it isn't the fan clutch, and you don't need a bigger one. There's obviously some kind of underlying issue. The only thing you should have to do is drop a lower temp t-stat in it.

If you've done a flush, t-stat, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, and you're still running hot... Then it's probably your radiator that needs to be replaced, or there's a blockage somewhere.

It's been mid 80's - 90 degrees where I live, and I'm running 190* +/-. I'm guessing it's due to a lower temp t-stat the OP put in it. I've never had to touch my e-fan. Maybe you've got another issue somewhere???

I did the mod to keep mine cool, not to cool it down. That's why I did it. My a/c is cooler, I posted pics of my temp as well. Everything runs cooler. Just to re-cap, I never had any over heating issues, nor did my electric fan have to come on to help. Just wanted my Jeep to run cooler than 200-210*. Project solved.

The other day it was 108* plus outside and the temp ran the same as pictured, and my a/c was ice cold. No issues. Jeep ran cool.

190* is great. That means your t-stat never fully opened at 90* outside? I assume you have a 195* stat. Interesting.

Originally Posted by djb383
+1.....The only thing the fan clutch mod will "for sure" do is make noise, rob power and mpg. IF, and only IF, the stat temp is lowered will the fan clutch mod possibly lower coolant temp. The stat only is what determines MINIMUM coolant temp. All of the other cooling system components, their condition, ambient temp and driving conditions determine MAX coolant temps. More air flow thru the dinky XJ rad will lower coolant temp only slightly once the stat is fully open. The weak link in the XJ rad is the dinky radiator, not the fans or the stock fan clutch.

The fan clutch mod is a simple/easy to do bolt-on mod (and about the only cooling system mod)......now, if there was some way to (if it was offered) bolt-in an aluminum rad with dual 1.25" wide tubes that would be a major cooling improvement.....but there isn't.
Good catch, most over look this. This mod needs to be in combo with a lower t-stat. That's why I did the 180* stat AND drilled the 1/8" hole. The fan cools the coolant sooner, thus not allowing high temps.

As for robbing horse power. I didn't notice any robbed. Just me. But, mine has a K&N CAI and Hypertech III chip.

Last edited by CrawlerXJ; 07-15-2012 at 02:23 PM.
Old 07-16-2012 | 06:59 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by djb383
+1.........now, if there was some way to (if it was offered) bolt-in an aluminum rad with dual 1.25" wide tubes that would be a major cooling improvement.....but there isn't.
I do have a nice 2 Row All Aluminum Radiator in my '01 XJ which is thicker than the OE Stock unit it replaced. That's why I was unable to get this Hayden clutch unit to fit in my rig (easily). I think if I rotate out the radiator by loosening the upper supports I may get it to work... but not sure. I'm not worried about dropping the coolant temps in my rig as it cools quite nicely w/the radiator and hood vents... but it would be nice to pull more air across the AC Condenser to improve cooling in my rig.
Old 07-16-2012 | 09:39 AM
  #74  
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I wonder how much difference there would be by only replacing the thermostat with the 180* and NOT changing the fan. I have a feeling that's where most of the gains came from. The only real advantage I would see would being able to pull more air through the A/C condenser. I would be curious to see how much difference there would be if someone put the stock clutch back in but left the 180* thermostat in place for a comparison.
Old 07-16-2012 | 09:49 AM
  #75  
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Interesting list that O'Reilly's says that fan clutch fits... Apparently it's standard on the 2.5L....


This part also fits:

Jeep27 vehicles
3 vehicles1998 - 2000Cherokee
L4 - 2.5L vin P 150ci - MFI GAS OHV
4 vehicles1994 - 1997Cherokee SE
L4 - 2.5L vin P 150ci - MFI GAS OHV
2 vehicles1998 - 1999Wrangler
L6 - 4.0L vin S 242ci - MFI GAS OHV
3 vehicles1991 - 1993Wrangler Base
L6 - 4.0L vin S 242ci - MFI GAS OHV
2 vehicles1991 - 1992Wrangler Islander
L6 - 4.0L vin S 242ci - MFI GAS OHV
4 vehicles1991 - 1994Wrangler Renegade
L6 - 4.0L vin S 242ci - MFI GAS OHV
2 vehicles1994 - 1995Wrangler SE
L6 - 4.0L vin S 242ci - MFI GAS OHV
6 vehicles1991 - 1997*Wrangler Sahara
L6 - 4.0L vin S 242ci - MFI GAS OHV
1 vehicles1997Wrangler Sport
L6 - 4.0L vin S 242ci - MFI GAS OHV


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