Question about replacing front brake lines/hoses
06-27-2018, 06:34 AM
#17
CF Veteran
Well I just did a few cupra nickle lines on the xj. AZ does have them pre made to standard lengths, 50, 60, 10 etc in the 3/16ths. Pricey though but worth saving the time to flare etc.
Relieved that I wont be worrying about rust and corruption with those here in NYS its a big issue. Steel last about 2 years here.
Relieved that I wont be worrying about rust and corruption with those here in NYS its a big issue. Steel last about 2 years here.
06-27-2018, 09:41 PM
#19
CF Veteran
finished mine today.. what a job ugh. But a good feeling now to have them all in right.
06-27-2018, 10:31 PM
#20
Senior Member
Another vote for NiCopp tubing. The stuff is just so easy to work with. Bends so easily you don't even need a tubing bender, and it's hard to make a bad flare with it. Between that and no rust it's a no-brainer that's well worth the additional cost. I'll never go back to installing steel replacement lines.
06-28-2018, 02:11 AM
#21
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Another vote for NiCopp tubing. The stuff is just so easy to work with. Bends so easily you don't even need a tubing bender, and it's hard to make a bad flare with it. Between that and no rust it's a no-brainer that's well worth the additional cost. I'll never go back to installing steel replacement lines.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER161A
06-29-2018, 03:42 AM
#24
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I did not forget the flare nut when I cut down premade lines but put the necessary bends in a line with one of the flare nuts down at the other end. LOL. Good thing the cupro-nickel line is so easy to work with. LOL.
07-17-2018, 04:00 PM
#26
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
From the factory, the right front hardline is one solid line from the brake hose to the master cylinder. The best place to splice it is just behind the valve cover. Thats how the aftermarket does it. Its in 2 pieces. Should you go with the pre-bent kits off ebay, the line from the brake hose into the engine bay is missing a couple bends entirely. They simply arent there. The factory line bends in towards the engine at the inner fender, and then bends back towards the firewall, passing under the charcoal canister. The aftermatket kits do not. Instead, the line is bent in such a way that it would enter the passenger compartment.
Perhaps i got a bad kit as i have not heard of any complaints about that line anywhere else. But its something to watch out for. I think most just bend thier own lines anyway.
Perhaps i got a bad kit as i have not heard of any complaints about that line anywhere else. But its something to watch out for. I think most just bend thier own lines anyway.
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Philipp Hartmann (05-02-2020)
07-17-2018, 09:42 PM
#27
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Nothing fancy about bending and flaring your own lines. I picked up a 25’ roll of brake line at one of the auto stores, thinking it would work out cheaper after a couple jobs, plus give me a couple chances to mess up at no cost. I used about a foot off the roll to practice my flaring technique before starting on my car’s tubes.
You’ll hear two stories on which fittings to use - some guys will insist on a proper flare nut to contain the pressure, while others will say they’re fine with the cheaper compression fitting. I’ve done it both ways but since learning how easy it is to do my own flaring, flare nuts are the only way I’ll do it from now on.
Brett
You’ll hear two stories on which fittings to use - some guys will insist on a proper flare nut to contain the pressure, while others will say they’re fine with the cheaper compression fitting. I’ve done it both ways but since learning how easy it is to do my own flaring, flare nuts are the only way I’ll do it from now on.
Brett
04-24-2020, 06:31 PM
#28
I finished replacing the lines on my 99, went with the stainless set from Inline Tube. The front right line was fine. One of the master cylinder lines was not bent quite right. Ironically it is one of the easiest lines to bend, and was trivial to fix with just my hands, no tools. Stainless is not easy to work with, need to torque the fittings down harder, I had a couple leaking initially and had to tighten them, but in the end it all worked out. Still need to drive it, but so far pumping the brake pedal 20 times produces no leaks.
i have the same Brake Line Set from Inline Tube, thanks for all that hints you have written! I have to change the front right line
what is all needed to take out to get this done, where do you start...?? thank you! Fill
Last edited by Philipp Hartmann; 04-24-2020 at 06:37 PM.
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