salad

That temperature is close enough! When we say "210°F" really if the needle points mostly straight up that's good enough. Everyone is making that statement based on a quick glance at the factory gauge while driving Not exactly accurate. As long as an IR thermometer pointed at the thermostat housing shows >195°F you're golden.

Looks like you've got some lovely rusty crusties in there still

Tex-J

Thanks again, salad. I'll have to remember the IR thermometer check. As far as the rusty crusties are concerned, I plan on checking it regularly and flushing/refilling as needed. I'm hoping things will clear up after a few more flushes.

Also, I read your Rotella write up. I'll definitely be using it at the next oil change.

autosurgeon

I would flush out all the coolant you can. Then refill with lemi shine and water. One full container in the system. Then run at idle until at ok temp. If stable drive around for an hour. Then drain and full several times with water to get the lemi shine and crud out. Once clean refill with water and correct coolant. I would get acquainted with the block drains on this project.

Tex-J

I didn't drive around for an hour, but this is pretty much what I did with the Cascade trick. What exactly is lemi shine?

**Edit - I see it's basically the same thing as Cascade. But I will take it for a longer drive next time. Thanks.

Tex-J

*Update* - I've driven it back and forth to work (40 mile round trip) for a couple of weeks, now. So far, it's performed flawlessly, both idling in traffic and at highway speeds. However, I haven't ran the AC, yet (I'm currently troubleshooting why the compressor won't come on) which will obviously put more stress on the cooling system. Right now, though, the temp gauge never gets above 210.

As for the compressor, I'm not getting voltage to it, even with the low pressure switch jumped. It's probably something simple, but between working all day, taking classes all night, and trying to build a garage, I hardly have any time to work on it.