Who said cold tranny fluid causes issues? Maybe lack of efficiency, like the motor.

 

Your buddy over in the "tranny running hot or not" thread said cold fluid is "no bueno", which is misleading/incorrect.

 

It likely is 'no bueno' for extended driving or in very cold climates. Like the 4.0 motor, the AW4 has operating range that is specified by the manufacturer, Aisin-Warner.

 

Share that operating range with us, please.

 

Tag you're it.


saw this one coming.

 

LOL. I was already targeted in another thread..


FSM for AW4
http://www.scribd.com/doc/97292423/A...c-Transmission

 

Sizemic2......if you're still here.......your temps aren't that far above normal, but my Renix does run a bit cooler than that, even in 100°+ weather. The highest I ever see it is up a grade pulling my 4000 lb boat, and even then it doesn't go above 215° or so. Cools back to 195° on level ground @3000 RPM (60 MPH) in 3rd (auto xmsn). You might want to look for any blockages of the airflow through the condensor/radiator, by bugs or other litter.

 

^ Good advise. I am amazed at what comes out of the condenser fins when using compressed air to blast it (from inside engine bay, forward). Sand, dirt, dragonflys, sea grass, mud, etc.

 

The trick is......to know how much sand/dirt and how many dragonflies and how much sea grass, mud, etc. to leave in the fins, since the motors r designed to run at approx 210* from the factory. Removing one too many dragonflies could lead to all kinds of.........well, u know, doom and gloom. Might even lead to the tranny running too cool. LOL

 

Contraire.....The thing you have to be careful of is how high a PSI your using when blowing out the radiator and condenser that you do "NOT" bend the fins. I have saw more than few do this when using a large compressor or forcing the nozzle into the fins.

 

It seems that not long ago, you were more intelligent than this.

 

Yep, I just thought that went without saying (careful not to bend fins with compressed air), but u r right, some folks, even some in this thread, gotta have everything explained to them very slowly.

I'm intelligent enough to know that posting insults, while hiding behind a keyboard, shows a lack of any intelligence.

 

Thanks everyone for both the useful information and the snarky banter.

Since the fan clutch is the only thing I'm certain is relatively new (and since posting I talked to the previous owner who said that the radiator had been replaced... it does look new) I'm planning to drain the radiator, pour in some prestone flush and water, run a few days, drain, fill with new coolant. I'll also spray out the rad fins although they don't look to grimey.

I also noticed some shimmery stuff in the coolant when I opened the cap, like VERY small aluminum or something. It's not a lot and I only noticed it under bright light. Is this stop leak or is this what a failing water pump looks like or is it somewhat normal?

I'm considering replacing the water pump just to know it's new. If I do change it, I assume oem mopar is the way to go?

 

I replaced my entire cooling system last year, not because it needed it, but because I wanted peace of mind, it was all original except for the water pump and thermostat (replaced those when I dealt with the head Crack in 2005).
After flushing my original rad resides in my MJ now.
Just used jobber parts (rad was $125, WP was $35, hoses were around $18 each, and some 5/8 heater hose) only thing that remains is the heater core.
Figure if I get 5yrs without failure I'll do it again, but rad does have lifetime warranty. And the parts have lasted more than that given previous parts.
IIRC wp was a standard and was the same brand I tossed in in 2005, old pump is now backup for XJ and MJ.
Point being don't have to go just Mopar, not all parts store parts are pure crap.

 

Seems like the NoPower pump from the dealer had a 90 day warranty......maybe 12 months. The one from O'Reily was lifetime warranty.