I can't believe where they put the drain plug on the radiator. I've seen some bad designs, but damn! I had to remove the passenger side light bezel and turn signal to get to it, and even then I couldn't turn it. I finally go it off and then on, but wow, what a task. To be honest, it was easier dropping the fuel tank to change out the press regulator than to drain the radiator.


I could the engineer that came up with that idea.

 

The easiest way to flush that system out is to remove the air box and then remove the lower radiator hose. I usually buy 8 or so gallons of distilled water and start fill/flush/drain via lower hose method 4 or 5 times. By the 4th time it's coming out pretty much clear. Use a flush product of your choice on the first drain and flush and just the water thereafter. After the last drain simply fill with full strength antifreeze (again of your choice) and you're set since you already have the distilled water in the block. Clean the overflow tank really good and put full strength antifreeze in it as well.

 

Good idea. I actually bought one of those flush t's and flushed it through the input to the heater core, I also removed the thermostat. I also bought the 50/50 antifreeze and need to figure out how to get most of the water out of the block before filling it up with 50/50. There was a lot of junk in the system and I think the heater core is pretty much rusted out. I will remove the lower radiator hose to see if I can get more stuff out of the system since with the T, the fluid comes out of the radiator cap and I'm afraid heaving sediments are not getting out.

 

Hey al2ride,
Not to hijack your post, but.. did the pressure regulator solve your starting problem?

 

No, the problem with starting is due to a leaky check valve on the fuel pump. Not going to replace the pump since the pressure is good. I'm working on installing an external check valve. I think it's a 5/16" hose coming out of the tank, just need to verify before I buy one.

 

I'd be very interested in the outcome. Where you placed the valve and from whom you purchased it.
Thanks

 

on my 2000, i got to the plug by taking off the passenger bumper cap, but it was still a pain in the ***

 

Remove the grille (8 screws on pre-97s) and the petcock/plug is right there.

 

The bad thing about the flush kits is you're putting water full of minerals into your cooling system.

 

I'll try to document the procedure once I get the right size valve...I'll also see about pictures.

 

I know, but it is definitely better than it was...a lot of dirty coolant came out of it. I actually flushed it until it was all clear, then added a cleaner, drove it about 30 miles, and flushed it again...a little more dirt came out, I then flushed with water, then used compressed air to blow most of it out...I know some still remains but it's best I could do. It took 2.5 gallons of 50/50 so I know that most of the water came out...Not perfect, but much better than it was.

 

Sounds like you were very thorough.

 

so does anybody have pictures of where the drain plug would be on a 2000

 

I just pull a radiator hose.

Easy, and a much larger opening.

 

There's a drain petcock?

I've never bothered to look for one. I just use the lower radiator hose like others on here have said.