c1lonewolf

I was told I needed to fix the loose headlight switch on my 97 jeep Cherokee sport because it could cause electrical problems. After about 2 hours of study and trying to figure out which way was UP, I finally found the retaining button and was able to remove the switch and check the wiring to ensure everything was connected. The problem I have is that the switch was held in by a washer and there is very little plastic left on the trim to hold the switch in place. probably why it pushed through to begin with. Now I have a few questions: Apparently this wasn't the first time it's been messed with.
1. How to stabilize the switch and keep it from pushing through again?
2. When putting the switch back in place, does the retaining button point toward the steering column or the floorboard?
(had a rough time getting it out think it was backwards)
3. Is it OK to spray wd-40 dry lube on the rod? (hoping that would make it glide easier)
And one last one this is for forum control panel and need to know...
4. Is a 97 Jeep Cherokee Sport an XJ , SJ or ZJ? (I always just called it a sport)

Veeb0rg

I can answer 4. Its an XJ. Doesn't matter what package it is, Sport, Limited etc, they're all XJ's. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_(XJ)

and SJ is a FSJ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_SJ

and a ZJ is a Grand Cherokee from 93 to 98. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Grand_Cherokee_(ZJ)

MrTodd

This video will answer all your questions, except the WD-40 spray, which is ok to do if you've already done it, but I wouldn't do it again.


Todd

c1lonewolf

Thank you both for your answers...much needed and appreciated!
Thanks MrTodd, your video was a lot better than the other one I saw. However, the mounting brace that you talk about was broken in mine. It was held in by a metal washer and a really small piece of plastic. That's why it pushed through. Plus somehow it got turned sideways, the retainer button was pointing toward the left fender and the wiring connection was on the steering column side. Once I found out which way was up and could get it turned right, I was finally able to remove the rod. But I had to build a temporary brace to hold the switch into the back panel. Meaning I removed the trim in front of the gauges and behind the center Bezel. Since I had a metal washer that could pull the switch and the nut together I just had to build something in between so the switch wouldn't push through again. I used ye ol' duct tape. String yes but works. Just finished putting it back together a few minutes ago and tested switch and all lighting ops.

Also something I found out the hard way the you might want to mention in your videos is how to get the switch out easily. yes it takes a lil' but I found when putting the swicth back in, if you push the retainer button side of the switch into the slot first and maneuver slightly around the angle, the wiring connector all falls into place taking about 3-5 seconds. Took me two hours of fighting it to figure that out.

Again thanks you guys...my jeep needs more help than I know how to do, but light switch no longer moving is step in the right direction. Next to find out whay gauges aren't working (see other posts)heheh

Roler

A factory service manual is invaluable for any work you'd like to do yourself, plus it makes for a good read

Go have a look on Cruiser54.com and scroll down to the relevant section (technical manuals)

c1lonewolf

I finally have a copy and it's nothing but confusing to me. All that back and forth trying to find the things each section talks about...I could build a site that puts things together better and faster than that. Still haven't figured out how to read the fuse listings or find things that should be simple.