Real honest opinions please< no filter!
#31
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 4,043
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
X2 on finding a good body. There just isn't anything left to weld the frame stiffeners to! As noted, a 2wd with a blown motor would be a god candidate. The body is the same, and you can swap over the trans, xfer case, drive shafts and front axle.
#32
CF Veteran
I've already invested $2,000 after the purchase price, welding is going to be another $2,000, so that would put me at $4,000 and that's still without fixing leaks in the roof, fixing the rockers, door jams and new fenders(front, rear and inner and outer), as well as with new insulation.
I'd really love to pull the axels, rebuild them, pull the transmission and rebuild it, same with the motor(add in solid performance upgrades), and lastly do the same with the transfer case, pull the lift, and salvage anything usable from the rest of it, and scrap the remaining.
I really just want to make the best choice in the long run, if that means taking 2+ years to properly locate, buy and build the proper Jeep, so be it, doing it right from the start without cutting corners, is going to have the end result of an outstanding Overlanding Family Rig.
I don't care where it is, if anyone knows of a rust free roller even, I will drive to it, pick it up and bring her back to Minnesota, Craigslist is ok, but I bet you all and other's have some off the books resources haha, or it may just be my wishful hoping and thinking.
I'd really love to pull the axels, rebuild them, pull the transmission and rebuild it, same with the motor(add in solid performance upgrades), and lastly do the same with the transfer case, pull the lift, and salvage anything usable from the rest of it, and scrap the remaining.
I really just want to make the best choice in the long run, if that means taking 2+ years to properly locate, buy and build the proper Jeep, so be it, doing it right from the start without cutting corners, is going to have the end result of an outstanding Overlanding Family Rig.
I don't care where it is, if anyone knows of a rust free roller even, I will drive to it, pick it up and bring her back to Minnesota, Craigslist is ok, but I bet you all and other's have some off the books resources haha, or it may just be my wishful hoping and thinking.
The following 2 users liked this post by Morat:
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lawsoncl (11-04-2021)
#36
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 4,043
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899 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
If it's the automatic, it probably doesn't need a rebuild. They easily go to 300-400k miles with zero issues besides solenoids. Just give it a good fluid change and replace the solenoids if they're bad.
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BlueRidgeMark (11-04-2021)
#37
::CF Administrator::
#40
Junior Member
Sounds great to me, I am absolutely ok with pulling the good parts and scraping the rest. I am much more comfortable putting the money into a build that doesn't require unwanted and unnecessary welding lol. I am looking at a few different options around the country and as soon as I make a choice, I will let you guys know. Thanks again and we'll see were this takes us all.
be patient you will find one and when you do spray that sucker down with por 15 or any oil based paint and bite the rust in the ***.. and hose that sucker down once every couple of weeks
#41
Newbie
Thread Starter
I bought it for $800 knowing the parts are worth over $2500, so it's not a big deal I didn't catch this stuff.
Plus 80% of what you can see in my pictures is after I pulled the carpet, and cut away and hammered out all the bad areas that WEREN'T visible.
Thanks guys, I'm looking for a all stock, clean body roller. Here's the Parts list of what I already have and will
**Money in as of 11-09-2021:
Purchase Price of $800.00 + $770.00(Miscellaneous Parts and Electrical) + Crossmember($158) + Frame Re-enforcement Kit($605), and JRC Classic Rock Sliders($650) = $3,000.00"
CAME WITH:
**LED Headlights
**33x12.5R15 BF GOODWRENCH MT’s
**3.5 Inch Suspension.
CURRENT PARTOctober 2021:
**New Alternator and Serpentine Belt.**
**Camshaft Sensor and the Female Pigtail.**
**Crankshaft Sensor.**
**Fuel Injectors EV6’s.**
**Fuel Pump.**
**Fuel Pump Relay.**
**Starter Relay.**
**ASD Relay.**
**New Battery Terminal Clamps.**
**Checked and Cleaned Grounds.**
**Replaced Starter Wire to Battery.**
**New Spark Plugs and Spark Plug Wires**
**Distributor Cap and Rotor**
**New Thermostat Housing**
**New Thermostat**
**New Thermostat Gasket**
**New Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses**
**New PCV Valves (Orifice Type)**
**New Radiator Cap**
**New Valve Cover Gasket
FUTURE PLANS:
I am going to pull the both axles, the engine and transmission(will rebuild interior if needed), and any other mechanical usable parts, put them with the parts that I haven't installed yet, then "Just give it a good fluid change and replace the solenoids if they're bad".
Then the build will really start coming together, and I'm going to name her "Providence", after George Washington's Life and start of Our Beloved United States of America.
Plus 80% of what you can see in my pictures is after I pulled the carpet, and cut away and hammered out all the bad areas that WEREN'T visible.
Thanks guys, I'm looking for a all stock, clean body roller. Here's the Parts list of what I already have and will
**Money in as of 11-09-2021:
Purchase Price of $800.00 + $770.00(Miscellaneous Parts and Electrical) + Crossmember($158) + Frame Re-enforcement Kit($605), and JRC Classic Rock Sliders($650) = $3,000.00"
CAME WITH:
**LED Headlights
**33x12.5R15 BF GOODWRENCH MT’s
**3.5 Inch Suspension.
CURRENT PARTOctober 2021:
**New Alternator and Serpentine Belt.**
**Camshaft Sensor and the Female Pigtail.**
**Crankshaft Sensor.**
**Fuel Injectors EV6’s.**
**Fuel Pump.**
**Fuel Pump Relay.**
**Starter Relay.**
**ASD Relay.**
**New Battery Terminal Clamps.**
**Checked and Cleaned Grounds.**
**Replaced Starter Wire to Battery.**
**New Spark Plugs and Spark Plug Wires**
**Distributor Cap and Rotor**
**New Thermostat Housing**
**New Thermostat**
**New Thermostat Gasket**
**New Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses**
**New PCV Valves (Orifice Type)**
**New Radiator Cap**
**New Valve Cover Gasket
FUTURE PLANS:
I am going to pull the both axles, the engine and transmission(will rebuild interior if needed), and any other mechanical usable parts, put them with the parts that I haven't installed yet, then "Just give it a good fluid change and replace the solenoids if they're bad".
Then the build will really start coming together, and I'm going to name her "Providence", after George Washington's Life and start of Our Beloved United States of America.
The following users liked this post:
Sirsyc0 (11-09-2021)
#43
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Pasquotank, NC
Posts: 1,735
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26 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have picked up two XJs and an MJ under $500 in my area that were just about mint bodies - not a lick of rust anywhere. One XJ for $400 that I drove home w/ a low miles rebuilt 4.0. The other XJ was $150 missing the front clip. The MJ was $400 and a roller. Point being - solid rollers are not hard to find down south in rust free condition. I regularly crawl the junk yards and see solid XJs out there. We don't have rust down here. Find someone selling a junker down here and drag it home. You will be well ahead doing so. Don't bother trying to find a solid jeep up your way, they will all be hiding rust somewhere. These XJs are unibody - meaning the frame is part of the body. There isn't much allowance for rot before you have structural issues.
Next suggestion - buy a mig welder and learn to weld. You will be money ahead doing your own welding. It will be cheaper to get the setup than to pay a pro, assuming you plan to dig deep into the jeep. Buy a quality wire feeder with a shielding gas - a Lincoln or a Hobart.
Next suggestion - buy a mig welder and learn to weld. You will be money ahead doing your own welding. It will be cheaper to get the setup than to pay a pro, assuming you plan to dig deep into the jeep. Buy a quality wire feeder with a shielding gas - a Lincoln or a Hobart.
The following 2 users liked this post by bad_idea:
doublechaz (11-10-2021),
GruntRig1776 (11-10-2021)
#44
Newbie
Thread Starter
I have picked up two XJs and an MJ under $500 in my area that were just about mint bodies - not a lick of rust anywhere. One XJ for $400 that I drove home w/ a low miles rebuilt 4.0. The other XJ was $150 missing the front clip. The MJ was $400 and a roller. Point being - solid rollers are not hard to find down south in rust free condition. I regularly crawl the junk yards and see solid XJs out there. We don't have rust down here. Find someone selling a junker down here and drag it home. You will be well ahead doing so. Don't bother trying to find a solid jeep up your way, they will all be hiding rust somewhere. These XJs are unibody - meaning the frame is part of the body. There isn't much allowance for rot before you have structural issues.
Next suggestion - buy a mig welder and learn to weld. You will be money ahead doing your own welding. It will be cheaper to get the setup than to pay a pro, assuming you plan to dig deep into the jeep. Buy a quality wire feeder with a shielding gas - a Lincoln or a Hobart.
Next suggestion - buy a mig welder and learn to weld. You will be money ahead doing your own welding. It will be cheaper to get the setup than to pay a pro, assuming you plan to dig deep into the jeep. Buy a quality wire feeder with a shielding gas - a Lincoln or a Hobart.
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