Really need help
01-06-2018, 08:44 PM
#31
CF Veteran
I've got ARP bolts in my cylinder head too, and they don't look like that. I've always used ARP bolts in all of my engines. Did these come with the titan head? All the head bolts for a 4.0 on the driver's stud have studs that stick up 1 inch. The plastic that the fuel injector harnesses come out of mount on top of them.
Okay, what is going on with your engine. Why was it rebuilt? Did you have a cracked head? Look on top of the head around the 3rd and 4th cylinders and tell me if you see the numbers 0331 on that head from Titan. I wouldn't put it past them to sell one of those heads.
Okay, what is going on with your engine. Why was it rebuilt? Did you have a cracked head? Look on top of the head around the 3rd and 4th cylinders and tell me if you see the numbers 0331 on that head from Titan. I wouldn't put it past them to sell one of those heads.
01-06-2018, 08:48 PM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: colorado
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I've got ARP bolts in my cylinder head too, and they don't look like that. I've always used ARP bolts in all of my engines. Did these come with the titan head? All the head bolts for a 4.0 on the driver's stud have studs that stick up 1 inch. The plastic that the fuel injector harnesses come out of mount on top of them.
Okay, what is going on with your engine. Why was it rebuilt? Did you have a cracked head? Look on top of the head around the 3rd and 4th cylinders and tell me if you see the numbers 0331 on that head from Titan. I wouldn't put it past them to sell one of those heads.
Okay, what is going on with your engine. Why was it rebuilt? Did you have a cracked head? Look on top of the head around the 3rd and 4th cylinders and tell me if you see the numbers 0331 on that head from Titan. I wouldn't put it past them to sell one of those heads.
01-06-2018, 08:51 PM
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: colorado
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
no the bolts didn't come from titan, I don't remember the part number unfortunately, the engine was tired (280000 miles) and the head gasket was slowly leaking, when I pulled the head and cleaned it i found a crack between 3-4 And it was a 0331 casting, the head they sent me is not a 0331, I would have sent it right back if I had seen the stamp
01-06-2018, 08:53 PM
#34
CF Veteran
If you have to put your foot on the pedal to start it, pull the IAC valve off the throttle body. Make sure it isn't sticking closed, if it is, clean it with CARB cleaner. You might need to use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it up since you're in a cold environment. I had to do that myself.
Okay, you need to not drive that vehicle anymore. That hole is probably leaking coolant. One overheat on a 4.0 and the thing is toast. It doesn't take long, and because the sensor is up top in the head it's not going to give you the Check Gauges warning until long after the coolant has drained out and potentially damaged your engine.
Find a properly thread sized bolt to fill that plug in the back and use Loctite 592.
DON'T BE IN A RUSH. Rushing to get something working to get it back on the road is a fast ticket to destroying an engine. If you have to wait a few days or a week, so be it. The alternative is it's destroyed and it's down for 4 or more weeks and you have to spend several thousand to fix it. If it ever gives you the Check Gauges warning and the CTS is telling you it's hot, pull over and shut it off ASAP. Get it towed, do not keep driving it. I've done it twice and both times it caused engine damage. I was an idiot for doing it. One time I kept trying to fill it up with coolant while it was snowing outside on a long trip from Florida to NC. Another time I only drove it half a mile and I was lucky I only got a bent push rod. I still pulled the whole engine to check the cam and lifters because historically those always wipe out when it overheats.
Does it say TUPY under the oil fill cap? I hope it does. I would hate to find out they do some janky junk like drill holes into the side of the head to make it compatible with the 2000 and later heads with the coil packs, but I wouldn't put it past them.
They only warranty "Workmanship." Meaning if you try to take them to court their LLC *** is covered because if a part breaks... that's the part. You can't prove it was their faulty working on it (which is precisely what causes the parts to break to begin with, bad engineering and sloppy work in a dirty facility). I know this because the guy that helped me install it who builds race engines said I needed to take them to court. When I mentioned it Chuck (Manis) seemed to be all too familiar with the process.
Okay, you need to not drive that vehicle anymore. That hole is probably leaking coolant. One overheat on a 4.0 and the thing is toast. It doesn't take long, and because the sensor is up top in the head it's not going to give you the Check Gauges warning until long after the coolant has drained out and potentially damaged your engine.
Find a properly thread sized bolt to fill that plug in the back and use Loctite 592.
DON'T BE IN A RUSH. Rushing to get something working to get it back on the road is a fast ticket to destroying an engine. If you have to wait a few days or a week, so be it. The alternative is it's destroyed and it's down for 4 or more weeks and you have to spend several thousand to fix it. If it ever gives you the Check Gauges warning and the CTS is telling you it's hot, pull over and shut it off ASAP. Get it towed, do not keep driving it. I've done it twice and both times it caused engine damage. I was an idiot for doing it. One time I kept trying to fill it up with coolant while it was snowing outside on a long trip from Florida to NC. Another time I only drove it half a mile and I was lucky I only got a bent push rod. I still pulled the whole engine to check the cam and lifters because historically those always wipe out when it overheats.
Does it say TUPY under the oil fill cap? I hope it does. I would hate to find out they do some janky junk like drill holes into the side of the head to make it compatible with the 2000 and later heads with the coil packs, but I wouldn't put it past them.
They only warranty "Workmanship." Meaning if you try to take them to court their LLC *** is covered because if a part breaks... that's the part. You can't prove it was their faulty working on it (which is precisely what causes the parts to break to begin with, bad engineering and sloppy work in a dirty facility). I know this because the guy that helped me install it who builds race engines said I needed to take them to court. When I mentioned it Chuck (Manis) seemed to be all too familiar with the process.
Last edited by CoffeeCommando; 01-06-2018 at 08:57 PM.
01-06-2018, 09:00 PM
#35
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: colorado
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If you have to put your foot on the pedal to start it, pull the IAC valve off the throttle body. Make sure it isn't sticking closed, if it is, clean it with CARB cleaner. You might need to use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it up since you're in a cold environment. I had to do that myself.
Okay, you need to not drive that vehicle anymore. That hole is probably leaking coolant. One overheat on a 4.0 and the thing is toast. It doesn't take long, and because the sensor is up top in the head it's not going to give you the Check Gauges warning until long after the coolant has drained out and potentially damaged your engine.
Find a properly thread sized bolt to fill that plug in the back and use Loctite 592.
DON'T BE IN A RUSH. Rushing to get something working to get it back on the road is a fast ticket to destroying an engine. If you have to wait a few days or a week, so be it. The alternative is it's destroyed and it's down for 4 or more weeks and you have to spend several thousand to fix it. If it ever gives you the Check Gauges warning and the CTS is telling you it's hot, pull over and shut it off ASAP. Get it towed, do not keep driving it. I've done it twice and both times it caused engine damage. I was an idiot for doing it. One time I kept trying to fill it up with coolant while it was snowing outside on a long trip from Florida to NC. Another time I only drove it half a mile and I was lucky I only got a bent push rod. I still pulled the whole engine to check the cam and lifters because historically those always wipe out when it overheats.
Okay, you need to not drive that vehicle anymore. That hole is probably leaking coolant. One overheat on a 4.0 and the thing is toast. It doesn't take long, and because the sensor is up top in the head it's not going to give you the Check Gauges warning until long after the coolant has drained out and potentially damaged your engine.
Find a properly thread sized bolt to fill that plug in the back and use Loctite 592.
DON'T BE IN A RUSH. Rushing to get something working to get it back on the road is a fast ticket to destroying an engine. If you have to wait a few days or a week, so be it. The alternative is it's destroyed and it's down for 4 or more weeks and you have to spend several thousand to fix it. If it ever gives you the Check Gauges warning and the CTS is telling you it's hot, pull over and shut it off ASAP. Get it towed, do not keep driving it. I've done it twice and both times it caused engine damage. I was an idiot for doing it. One time I kept trying to fill it up with coolant while it was snowing outside on a long trip from Florida to NC. Another time I only drove it half a mile and I was lucky I only got a bent push rod. I still pulled the whole engine to check the cam and lifters because historically those always wipe out when it overheats.
01-06-2018, 09:03 PM
#36
CF Veteran
Did you get paint inside your coolant temperature sensor? I am sensing you might be in over your head for an engine build. You didn't get spray paint inside bolt holes on the surface of the block and head did you? A number of things ground through the bolts that go to the block, such as spark plugs and if you had a distributor your ignition coil. The negative from the batter grounds to the block as well.
01-06-2018, 09:03 PM
#37
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: colorado
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If you have to put your foot on the pedal to start it, pull the IAC valve off the throttle body. Make sure it isn't sticking closed, if it is, clean it with CARB cleaner. You might need to use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it up since you're in a cold environment. I had to do that myself.
Okay, you need to not drive that vehicle anymore. That hole is probably leaking coolant. One overheat on a 4.0 and the thing is toast. It doesn't take long, and because the sensor is up top in the head it's not going to give you the Check Gauges warning until long after the coolant has drained out and potentially damaged your engine.
Find a properly thread sized bolt to fill that plug in the back and use Loctite 592.
DON'T BE IN A RUSH. Rushing to get something working to get it back on the road is a fast ticket to destroying an engine. If you have to wait a few days or a week, so be it. The alternative is it's destroyed and it's down for 4 or more weeks and you have to spend several thousand to fix it. If it ever gives you the Check Gauges warning and the CTS is telling you it's hot, pull over and shut it off ASAP. Get it towed, do not keep driving it. I've done it twice and both times it caused engine damage. I was an idiot for doing it. One time I kept trying to fill it up with coolant while it was snowing outside on a long trip from Florida to NC. Another time I only drove it half a mile and I was lucky I only got a bent push rod. I still pulled the whole engine to check the cam and lifters because historically those always wipe out when it overheats.
Does it say TUPY under the oil fill cap? I hope it does. I would hate to find out they do some janky junk like drill holes into the side of the head to make it compatible with the 2000 and later heads with the coil packs, but I wouldn't put it past them.
They only warranty "Workmanship." Meaning if you try to take them to court their LLC *** is covered because if a part breaks... that's the part. You can't prove it was their faulty working on it (which is precisely what causes the parts to break to begin with, bad engineering and sloppy work in a dirty facility). I know this because the guy that helped me install it who builds race engines said I needed to take them to court. When I mentioned it Chuck (Manis) seemed to be all too familiar with the process.
Okay, you need to not drive that vehicle anymore. That hole is probably leaking coolant. One overheat on a 4.0 and the thing is toast. It doesn't take long, and because the sensor is up top in the head it's not going to give you the Check Gauges warning until long after the coolant has drained out and potentially damaged your engine.
Find a properly thread sized bolt to fill that plug in the back and use Loctite 592.
DON'T BE IN A RUSH. Rushing to get something working to get it back on the road is a fast ticket to destroying an engine. If you have to wait a few days or a week, so be it. The alternative is it's destroyed and it's down for 4 or more weeks and you have to spend several thousand to fix it. If it ever gives you the Check Gauges warning and the CTS is telling you it's hot, pull over and shut it off ASAP. Get it towed, do not keep driving it. I've done it twice and both times it caused engine damage. I was an idiot for doing it. One time I kept trying to fill it up with coolant while it was snowing outside on a long trip from Florida to NC. Another time I only drove it half a mile and I was lucky I only got a bent push rod. I still pulled the whole engine to check the cam and lifters because historically those always wipe out when it overheats.
Does it say TUPY under the oil fill cap? I hope it does. I would hate to find out they do some janky junk like drill holes into the side of the head to make it compatible with the 2000 and later heads with the coil packs, but I wouldn't put it past them.
They only warranty "Workmanship." Meaning if you try to take them to court their LLC *** is covered because if a part breaks... that's the part. You can't prove it was their faulty working on it (which is precisely what causes the parts to break to begin with, bad engineering and sloppy work in a dirty facility). I know this because the guy that helped me install it who builds race engines said I needed to take them to court. When I mentioned it Chuck (Manis) seemed to be all too familiar with the process.
01-06-2018, 09:06 PM
#38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: colorado
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Did you get paint inside your coolant temperature sensor? I am sensing you might be in over your head for an engine build. You didn't get spray paint inside bolt holes on the surface of the block and head did you? A number of things ground through the bolts that go to the block, such as spark plugs and if you had a distributor your ignition coil. The negative from the batter grounds to the block as well.
01-06-2018, 09:08 PM
#39
CF Veteran
I'll check the iac out real quick and see what it's doing, lol no I'm not driving it until it's ready, I'm a journey man diesel mechanic, which translates into I don't know **** about the electrical system of gasers, just enough to get myself into trouble at least lol, but I guess the real question here is there suppose to be coolant in the bolt hole or do I need to yank the head and tell titan they suck?
If you spray painted everything yourself and you didn't plug the holes with something to protect them you have electrical problems, everywhere. Everything grounds to the block just about, and the block receives ground from the battery. If you didn't block off the ports for at least the grounds I can gaurantee you that is your electrical problem. You should be lucky the thing has the power to turn the lights on on the cluster to even tell you there is "No Bus".
Pull every ground off the block and off the cylinder head. Get a detailed thread chaser kit and clean those holes out, then try again.
01-06-2018, 09:11 PM
#40
CF Veteran
Just ground that strap to the block then. I had the head bolts confused. I have Victor Reinz bolts and they have the OEM design. ARP doesn't. ARP appears to be missing the studs on the driver side, and that is what that braided ground strap is supposed to go to. That's a body ground and anything grounded to the body won't have electrical functionality. I am guessing that is interfering with your TCU somehow. It's metal and it does mount to the chassis inside so maybe that's how it grounds. I'm not sure but it sounds like that could be it.
01-06-2018, 09:49 PM
#45
CF Veteran
Not on my 2000 XJ it isn't, isn't that what yours is?
Mine uses the CTS up at the front. Different model years will have difference nuances. I can tell by the green MAP sensor on the firewall above it that's a Renix era 4.0 from the 80's, and it has all the dirt and grime of a vehicle that old to prove it. Look for that electrical plug and I bet you won't find it. If you do, send me a picture because I want to see it on mine. I have been intimate with my engine bay with my own engine swap the past few weeks and I've never seen that connector. Neither in my 98 in the past, nor the 1996 I had before it.
Mine uses the CTS up at the front. Different model years will have difference nuances. I can tell by the green MAP sensor on the firewall above it that's a Renix era 4.0 from the 80's, and it has all the dirt and grime of a vehicle that old to prove it. Look for that electrical plug and I bet you won't find it. If you do, send me a picture because I want to see it on mine. I have been intimate with my engine bay with my own engine swap the past few weeks and I've never seen that connector. Neither in my 98 in the past, nor the 1996 I had before it.