rear 4 link?
02-16-2009, 01:28 AM
#16
I'm doing a wishbone 3-link in the rear of my MJ when I'm to that point. the upper link will have it's body side mounts behind the axle, with a trussed mount and a superflex joint at the center of the axle, and the lowers will be coming from towards the front of the truck to the axle, with the superflex joints on the axle and bushings on the body.
that design is so that I don't have to move my gas tank, and it should perform extremely well under stress. it will be coil-over shocks rather than coils with buckets.
that design is so that I don't have to move my gas tank, and it should perform extremely well under stress. it will be coil-over shocks rather than coils with buckets.
I have seen similar setups in the front of some street queens. gonna be curious to how it works offroad and in a rear application.
02-16-2009, 02:13 AM
#17
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my response was directly geared towards the following statement by you:
the fab work for coil buckets is SIMPLE. that's easy as hell.
the fab work for your mounting points isn't too hard as long as you're a good welder and fabricator.
the geometry of the setup is the hardest part, but frankly I don't think it's too hard to get right. if you do your setup correctly, you may be off by 1" or less. and if you're smart in your design, they're adjustable to make up for that 1" without stressing the joints too much more.
I don't see why everyone craps over building longarms. fabrication is NOT that big of a deal. cut, grind, fit, repeat until it fits, then copy for the other side.
I'm doing a wishbone 3-link in the rear of my MJ when I'm to that point. the upper link will have it's body side mounts behind the axle, with a trussed mount and a superflex joint at the center of the axle, and the lowers will be coming from towards the front of the truck to the axle, with the superflex joints on the axle and bushings on the body.
that design is so that I don't have to move my gas tank, and it should perform extremely well under stress. it will be coil-over shocks rather than coils with buckets.
the fab work for coil buckets is SIMPLE. that's easy as hell.
the fab work for your mounting points isn't too hard as long as you're a good welder and fabricator.
the geometry of the setup is the hardest part, but frankly I don't think it's too hard to get right. if you do your setup correctly, you may be off by 1" or less. and if you're smart in your design, they're adjustable to make up for that 1" without stressing the joints too much more.
I don't see why everyone craps over building longarms. fabrication is NOT that big of a deal. cut, grind, fit, repeat until it fits, then copy for the other side.
I'm doing a wishbone 3-link in the rear of my MJ when I'm to that point. the upper link will have it's body side mounts behind the axle, with a trussed mount and a superflex joint at the center of the axle, and the lowers will be coming from towards the front of the truck to the axle, with the superflex joints on the axle and bushings on the body.
that design is so that I don't have to move my gas tank, and it should perform extremely well under stress. it will be coil-over shocks rather than coils with buckets.
To the OP, what experience do you have with 4-linking and coil setups? Welding? Fabricating?
Last edited by muddeprived; 02-16-2009 at 02:16 AM.
02-16-2009, 08:07 AM
#18
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i helped a bud to a 4 link in a Nissan with a full size d44. it wasn't terribly hard but it was VERY time consuming!! I'm talking months in the garage!! If you can't weld good or fabricate then i wouldn't do it. or just save the money to buy the kit. or you can bring it to Maine and i will weld it up for you!!!
02-16-2009, 09:26 AM
#19
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with suspensions i havent messed around too much but i have found some calculators and read up alot about it the last few days and i dont think it will be too bad. im a decent welder and as far as fabbing stuff up im plannin on pullin a 44 out of a wrangler since it will allready have buckets mounted then ill move them as needed and also ill grabber the upper spring buckets off a wrangler, but thats all assuming i dont run coil overs i havent made up my mind about that yet tho. but also im thinkin bout just buying the kit, since im in the military it can be a pain to get stuff into a garage let alone a shop to work on it. i figure with the kit and the auto shop on post ill be able to do it in a few days aslong as i can get the time to do it between family and the army life
02-16-2009, 05:36 PM
#20
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some people with limited knowledge of suspension setups and limited welding experience often go at it, and the results are often scary.
if i am getting this right. you are running the long lower arms from the axle to the front of the truck. and the upper wishbone from the top center of the axle to BEHIND the axle?
I have seen similar setups in the front of some street queens. gonna be curious to how it works offroad and in a rear application.
if i am getting this right. you are running the long lower arms from the axle to the front of the truck. and the upper wishbone from the top center of the axle to BEHIND the axle?
I have seen similar setups in the front of some street queens. gonna be curious to how it works offroad and in a rear application.
yes. the upper wishbone (body side) will mount circa the shackle mounts, directly below the frame. the upper axle side will use one RE superflex joint with a mount built on a truss that doesn't weld to the diff but does to the tubes. the mount will be reinforced by a plate which bolts to the upper 4 diff cover bolts as well, so as to reduce stress.
the lower mounts will come from inside the frame from the back of the cab to the front of the axle (not under the axle).
coilover shocks will be triangulated, though the upper mounting locations may turn out somewhat interesting to allow for flex...they may actually mount to the wishbone. the wishbone will be be triangulated and reinforced crossways, and will have two air bags above it between it and the body.
should keep the axle centrally located, and not allow it to roll when flexing. I have a feeling that I'm missing one part of the design to reduce axle wrap...may need a small stub link with limited motion between the upper axle end mount and the wishbone itself.
the air bags will be manually controlled individually from inside the cab via some solenoids and pressure switches that I can get through work. these will allow me to adjust ride height by around 4 to 6 inches for hill climbs and such.
somewhere I have a link to a similar 4-link setup I'll try and dig it up. may give you guys some ideas
02-16-2009, 06:21 PM
#21
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02-16-2009, 08:43 PM
#24
that is the weirdest suspension setup i have ever seen. i dont even know if i can follow how its supposed to work. I just see more links than there needs to be
those shocks do nothing mounted that close to center either
no idea what those big stupid green arms do
Last edited by ktmracer419; 02-16-2009 at 08:45 PM.
02-16-2009, 09:08 PM
#26
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the big green arms are overbuilt upper arms, and supposedly they keep the axle from wrapping even with those upper links.
I agree about the shocks...I wouldn't be using that setup.
just a general design I'm planning out and measuring. I don't want to move my gas tank, exhaust, or worry about my driveshaft with putting the link on the front side.
I agree about the shocks...I wouldn't be using that setup.
just a general design I'm planning out and measuring. I don't want to move my gas tank, exhaust, or worry about my driveshaft with putting the link on the front side.
02-16-2009, 09:50 PM
#29
if you look closely you will see 2 rusty arms mounting to the top of the diff
those hold the axle in place
there is no way a link attatched to a small link via heims on each end will keep the axle in place.
no need to get an attitude. gonna feel silly once you realize you are incorrect
those hold the axle in place
there is no way a link attatched to a small link via heims on each end will keep the axle in place.
no need to get an attitude. gonna feel silly once you realize you are incorrect
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