Cherryokee

If it's not one thing, it's another...

I thought that braking felt funny, especially after releasing the brake then moving to the go pedal. When I arrived at my destination all I could smell was hot steel so I felt each wheel and nearly burned my hand on the drivers side rear wheel. I guessed that it must be dragging a shoe - that was on Wednesday night. The pic shows what I found yesterday. I'm discouraged because I rebuilt both rear assemblies in early December.

I bought another new spring kit and replaced only the one broken (leading shoe return) spring. I put it all back together and made the brake adjustments with the axle in the air. Started it and put it in gear to observe spin. When I stepped on the brake pedal the drivers rear wheel kept spinning and the passenger side stopped. WTF?

Now I'm getting ready to replace the wheel cylinder again (new spare on the shelf) - after I determine that it's not a rubber line issue - for which I haven't a spare part.

DFlintstone

An issue with the drum('s)? You might take them in to be checked/turned. Driving with that one dragging could have done something.

Under light petal pressure one might stop first, depending on adjustment and the resistance the spring provides. I would suppose new spring's on one side would make that side "second".

OOdynamite

Turn the jeep off. Pull up on the e brake, release the e brake. Turn jeep on, put in gear, observe tires spinning (with the axle up in the air, of course), apply brakes. If it stuff isn't working, replace cylinder. BLEED ALL THE BRAKES, not just to one you worked on. And if you have a problem with the soft line (like a leak or something) your entire brake system would fail, not just one wheel.

Cherryokee

Oh yeah, thanks for reminding me. I put it on the lathe and made a fresh cut because I was afraid that overheating may have warped the drum. Surprisingly, there was no warpage.

BTW: When I did the "spin and brake check" I did it more than once and used more and more pressure on the pedal but the wheel kept spinning.

Q: Isn't there only one rubber line to the rear plumbing "tee"? I haven't stuck my nose in there yet...

Cherryokee

...because if there's only one rubber line then the cause is going to be a bad wheel cylinder.

mr white

Is the hardline clogged, kinked? Something seized up now on that side since you got it hot as ****?

Cherryokee

Thank You Dynomite, you just confirmed my suspicion.

Your response didn't show-up until I refreshed the forum...

And yes, I did the e-brake step as well.

mr white

Also: you still need to bleed all four if you screw with the fluid on any of them.

Cherryokee

Thanks to all of you. I'm going in/under now...

Cherryokee

Good thought Mr. White,

I think I'll bleed and burp that wheel first. That would tell me if there's a clog/kink.

What a brilliant collective you/we all are!

stockli

You only need to bleed if you have opened up the line in some way to let air in.


Is your cylinder all boogered up?

OOdynamite

Let us know how it turns out!

Cherryokee

I thought I could burp it alone after cobbling together some tubing that fit the nipple at one end, immersed in brake fluid within a clear container at the other end (to prevent air from back-drawing into the line/cylinder when I release the pedal). As it turns out, the little things are stacking up against my getting this done. I have a 8mm box wrench which has only a slightly angled head and the depth of the bleeder inside the recess of the backing plate allows only a few degrees of wrenching at-a-time. The tubing fit tightly over the nipple but interferes with box wrench removal and re-application so I removed the tubing/bottle. I know I only wanted to burp it as proof of an unclogged line but now I'm reluctant to open wide the bleeder without being able to arrest air from back-drawing (if). Bottom line: A second body is needed to accomplish even this small task...

mr white

get your wife or someone out there to push down on the brake while you have the bleeder open. Make sure she doesn't let the pedal go until you close the bleeder. Do that until the air bubbles are gone.

Cherryokee

Done with a bud at half-time. Easy burp (with a few of our own). No bubbles, no contam (besides normal for 175k). It's the wheel cylinder alright. Tomorrow morning...