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Rear brakes

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Old 02-05-2012 | 10:38 PM
  #16  
OOdynamite's Avatar
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From: York PA/State College PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee

Done with a bud at half-time. Easy burp (with a few of our own). No bubbles, no contam (besides normal for 175k). It's the wheel cylinder alright. Tomorrow morning...
Glad ya got it figured out
Old 02-05-2012 | 10:40 PM
  #17  
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From: Boston
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
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TY4tH
Old 02-11-2012 | 07:57 PM
  #18  
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From: Boston
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Finally found the time to replace the wheel cylinder. One thing leads to another - a real labor of love (NOT!). There's so much more I'd rather do with my Saturday but after running on three brakes for a week...

Stubborn steel line broke despite all the PB Blaster, torch-work and gentle twisting back and forth. Drilled-out the broken flare and cleaned the bore of the fitting. Attempted to stretch the original line for the inch I'd need to reflare and re-attach. Not a good idea. Bent-up and installed a new line then put together the self-bleeder I was talking about before - it worked like a champ.
Attached Thumbnails Rear brakes-img00735-20120211-1149.jpg   Rear brakes-img00742-20120211-1747.jpg  

Last edited by Cherryokee; 02-11-2012 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Add pics
Old 02-17-2012 | 12:05 PM
  #19  
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Everything seemed fine at first. Been driving on it for a week now. It seems to be back to three brakes again. Right rear either locks-up or makes a racket as it slows to a stop. Lines appear to be tight and right. No mush to the pedal either. What gives?
Old 02-17-2012 | 01:09 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee
Everything seemed fine at first. Been driving on it for a week now. It seems to be back to three brakes again. Right rear either locks-up or makes a racket as it slows to a stop. Lines appear to be tight and right. No mush to the pedal either. What gives?
Is this the one you did or the other one?
Old 03-05-2012 | 09:38 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mr white
Is this the one you did or the other one?
I did the left rear. A few days later, the right rear started locking-up (whenever I *****ed the pedal) or making a racket when slowing to a stop. The right self-adjuster got cranked and needed backing-off. The left self-adjuster cable (although new) appears out of spec. I think it's too long by 0.020-0.040" because the scraper is just shy of the adjuster wheel. I've been through this before...

I was prepared to replace the rubber line to the rear but after surveying the connections and the condition of the steal line I decided if it ain't broke don't fix it. A full system bleed was repeated (again) just for the sake of confidence. A significant amount of brake fluid (6-8 ozs total) was purged through to each of the rears this time - confirming healthy status of rubber line to axle and purity of fluid. Now I'm satisfied (and pleased) that I won't have to mess around with that rusted old steel line (yet).
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