Rear Diff Noise?
#16
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Troutdale
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l straight 6
is there a write up on how to do this? because i have no idea what a bearing race even is haha sorry im a newbie.
#17
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Troutdale
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l straight 6
i didnt try to move the carrier, but i will tomorrow. are the bearings on the outer sides of the axle by the tire? and how hard are those to replace? thanks
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
i dont know much about the bearing stuff either, but before you put new fluid in your diff, get a can or two of brake cleaner and spray down everything to clean it. Then soak up any thats sitting in there with some shop rags or towel. Put on your gasket or make one with RTV and let it sit for how long the package says and fill up.
definitely wait for someone to comment about the bearings before you fill it up though.
definitely wait for someone to comment about the bearings before you fill it up though.
#20
The differential will be the most complex thing to repair, I suggest you pull your break drums, breaks and backing plate, the C clips (if equipped), slide your axles out and check the wheel bearings, while they axles are out unbolt the u-joint from the yoke, and see how much you can thrust the pinion, it should not be sloppy, let us know how much you can move it, also check the carrier for slop, laterally and for thrust. If it feels tight then just replace your axle shaft seals, and wheel bearings, reassemble everything and test drive it.
If you pull the carrier when it doesn't need it and do not get it reinstalled correctly with the proper preload adjustment (hard to adjust preload on a used bearing) you may cause the bearing to fail. If your differential uses spacers instead of a preload adjustment then it is not problem to pull the carrier and reinstall it. Do not pull the pinion unless you plan on replacing the seal AND you know how to reinstall it.
Differentials are not complex but you have to be damn careful when pulling it apart. IMHO, never pull a carrier unless you plan on replacing all the bearings.
#22
i dont know much about the bearing stuff either, but before you put new fluid in your diff, get a can or two of brake cleaner and spray down everything to clean it. Then soak up any thats sitting in there with some shop rags or towel. Put on your gasket or make one with RTV and let it sit for how long the package says and fill up.
definitely wait for someone to comment about the bearings before you fill it up though.
definitely wait for someone to comment about the bearings before you fill it up though.
Keep the brake cleaner away from the pinions seal.
#23
Bearings are at the outer end of the axle housing, remove the wheel, remove the break drum, you will see the end of the axle, round flange with the five lug bolts, shine a flash light behind that and see where it enters the axle housing, that is where the seal and bearings are. The is generic advice, you need to identify your differential and use the manual. Be careful, use that digital camera to take pictures of how it comes apart.
#24
I believe this is your rear end. Lots of parts, which is why I suggest troubleshooting it BEFORE taking it apart. If you need to change the carrier or pinion bearings you will want to verify you have the proper gear alignment when you reassembly it by using a paste on the ring gear and rotating the differential, the paste will show where the pinion meets the ring gear. If it isn't correct you will destroy your gear seat fairly quickly. It isn't a terribly hard job but you will need to read up on it and be very careful in following every step.
#25
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Troutdale
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l straight 6
well im hoping that the noise is either coming from the wheel bearings, or something like a u joint. i dont want to have to tear into the differential, if i have to do all that i might as well just upgrade to a dana 44 dont you think?
#26
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
#27
If you can find one, Dana 44's are solid.
#29
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: gurnee il
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The last thing you want to be doing is pulling the gut/ring and pinion because you have to set up for gear/pinion mesh and backlash. The bearings on the end of the axle arnt hard. There is a good video on youtube for jeep axles and a u-joint isnt hard either. You can change the rear pinion seal without getting inside the dif its self but you will need a torque wrench. I have the same going on with my 98xj. Get a hum when I give it gas but goes away when I let off the gas. Just need time to get and replace the u-joint, but hard with a 2 yr old daughter.