Rear disk brake conversion
#1
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 189
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From: DuPage, IL
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rear disk brake conversion
So I think I'm going to give it a try. I have read through a bunch of articles found here and I think I have all the parts. I found a guy with a wrecked ZJ and got the rear calipers, backing plate, parking brake hardware, caliper soft lines, pads, and all of the nuts and bolts to install it. The write up I studies and read through didnt cover removing the axles or opening up the diff. As far as I can tell from other websites you just pop the diff cover off, remove the locking pin and c-clips and the alxes should just slide out? I am a little hesitant to open up the differential because I know it's very difficult to install the gear and is a very precise job. I tried looking for threads about removing the rear axles but I didnt come up with much. If someone could start me in the right direction that would be great. Also, I saw a note on the disk brake swap website about putting in new axle seals. I've got 177k on the clock so I'm expecting the worst, and info on those as well? Thanks!!
It's a 95 XJ Sport with the 8.25
It's a 95 XJ Sport with the 8.25
#2
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 842
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From: Guilderland NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
Removing the axleshafts is really easy as long as you have an open diff. Just take the spider gears out, push the shafts in a hair and the clips should drop right off.
Other than that the swap is pretty straightforward, you might have to clearance the bolt holes on the backing plate a little with a grinder or a drill, mine didn't line up 100% perfect, and it takes a bit of experimenting to get the brakelines and parking brake the way you want it but the swap is 100% worth it.
I also put in a ZJ proportioning valve on mine, made a night and day difference, with the stock valve the brakes were really no better than before but now it stops better than it did with stock tires.
Other than that the swap is pretty straightforward, you might have to clearance the bolt holes on the backing plate a little with a grinder or a drill, mine didn't line up 100% perfect, and it takes a bit of experimenting to get the brakelines and parking brake the way you want it but the swap is 100% worth it.
I also put in a ZJ proportioning valve on mine, made a night and day difference, with the stock valve the brakes were really no better than before but now it stops better than it did with stock tires.
#3
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 189
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From: DuPage, IL
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Awesome, it looked pretty straight forward so I'm feeding good about it. Could you give me a few more details about the spider gears? This is the only part that worries me. Also, do I need to mark the axles so they go back in the same way they came out? Thanks for your help
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 842
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From: Guilderland NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
Awesome, it looked pretty straight forward so I'm feeding good about it. Could you give me a few more details about the spider gears? This is the only part that worries me. Also, do I need to mark the axles so they go back in the same way they came out? Thanks for your help
Unbolt the pinion shaft (the big silver rod that goes through the middle of the carrier, it's held in with a little 8mm bolt) and then they will fall out, done.
I've heard to make sure that the shafts end up back on the same side they started, not sure if it's necessary but it doesn't hurt to be sure, I always do it.
I honestly wouldnt worry, this is a pretty simple job all in all, nothing that can be screwed up too bad.
#7
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Stockbridge, GA
Year: 1998 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Here a good write up I found for the 8.25.
http://home.swbell.net/rriojas3/reardisk.html
As for replacing the axle seals, might as well while you have everything apart. You say you have 177k, wouldn't hurt to change them also.
http://home.swbell.net/rriojas3/reardisk.html
As for replacing the axle seals, might as well while you have everything apart. You say you have 177k, wouldn't hurt to change them also.
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#8
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 189
Likes: 1
From: DuPage, IL
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I got most of my parts today, calipers with bolts, backing plates with nuts, rotors, pads, and soft lines($120, thanks craigslist!). I still need to get new parking brake shoes, diff gasket, axle seals, and some fluid. I'm pretty sure I got everything listed here. I do have a few more questions tho, how do you connect the soft lines to the original hard lines? I haven't taken them apart, but I would imagine there is a fitting there? I just want to try and get all of the pieces together before I start. What kind of diff fluid should I use? Any additave? Other than those I think I'm set. I'm going to buy everything tomorrow and try to do it before work. Let me know if I'm missing anything here. Also, about the spider gears, do they go back in the way they come out? Sorry for all of the questions about them but I've never taken my axles off before. Thanks again
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 842
Likes: 2
From: Guilderland NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
So I got most of my parts today, calipers with bolts, backing plates with nuts, rotors, pads, and soft lines($120, thanks craigslist!). I still need to get new parking brake shoes, diff gasket, axle seals, and some fluid. I'm pretty sure I got everything listed here. I do have a few more questions tho, how do you connect the soft lines to the original hard lines? I haven't taken them apart, but I would imagine there is a fitting there? I just want to try and get all of the pieces together before I start. What kind of diff fluid should I use? Any additave? Other than those I think I'm set. I'm going to buy everything tomorrow and try to do it before work. Let me know if I'm missing anything here. Also, about the spider gears, do they go back in the way they come out? Sorry for all of the questions about them but I've never taken my axles off before. Thanks again
The fittings just screw together, no hassle at all, just make sure the fitting isnt rusted on or you will twist the line off.
For the diff use 85-140, only use an additive if you have a limited slip.
Basically the spiders go back in the way they came out, pop them in the side and walk them around and slip the pinion shaft back through, just make sure not to lose any of the washers in there.
You are gonna have to screw around with your parking brake cable to get it to work with the new brakes but other than that you should be fine.
#10
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6 (o yea!)
I have done this swap and it is very easy, You shouldn't have to take the spider gears out. Just the center pin and push axles inward till clips can be removed. If done carefully the spider gears should just sit there as long as they are not disturbed. If you are putting the brakes on an 8.25 you will have to clearance the center hole to fit over the axle tube. You will also need to replace the backing plate studs in the 8.25 with those from the ZJ (or new hardware) this can be done by hitting them firmly with a BFH. As far as disconnecting the brake lines there should be joints where the rubber meets the steel lines on the top of your axle. Two line wrenches should do the trick (I can't remember size I think 8mm or 10mm) just becareful not to strip them or you will be cutting and flaring new brake line (not much fun). While I was in there I was going to replace the proportioning valve in the master with the one from the ZJ to but I didn't get to that part I will do it next time I bleed my brakes. This has to be one of the best mods I have done. For me the stopping difference was night and day. Still need to work a few issues with parking brake though
#11
Rear brakes
For what it's worth I feel you may find your graphic answer on a site in Oz on
...Gojeep... something au.... This guy is some thinking engineer...and he has a Jeep soul... Piano!... I've just found Marcus's new URL ...http/www.gojeep.rockcrawler.com hosted in Norway... you could be on a winner! Regards, Bonehunter...
...Gojeep... something au.... This guy is some thinking engineer...and he has a Jeep soul... Piano!... I've just found Marcus's new URL ...http/www.gojeep.rockcrawler.com hosted in Norway... you could be on a winner! Regards, Bonehunter...
#12
I did this disk conversion to include the P-valve but was not able to lock up the rear brakes on gravel. Has anyone else been able to lock up the rear disk brakes? Or is this normal, though I wouldnt think it would be. I did recheck the bleed and everything was checking good.
#13
Originally Posted by sgtskid
I have done this swap and it is very easy, You shouldn't have to take the spider gears out. Just the center pin and push axles inward till clips can be removed. If done carefully the spider gears should just sit there as long as they are not disturbed. If you are putting the brakes on an 8.25 you will have to clearance the center hole to fit over the axle tube. You will also need to replace the backing plate studs in the 8.25 with those from the ZJ (or new hardware) this can be done by hitting them firmly with a BFH. As far as disconnecting the brake lines there should be joints where the rubber meets the steel lines on the top of your axle. Two line wrenches should do the trick (I can't remember size I think 8mm or 10mm) just becareful not to strip them or you will be cutting and flaring new brake line (not much fun). While I was in there I was going to replace the proportioning valve in the master with the one from the ZJ to but I didn't get to that part I will do it next time I bleed my brakes. This has to be one of the best mods I have done. For me the stopping difference was night and day. Still need to work a few issues with parking brake though
Randy in Wichita?
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