Sword

I have a 2001 jeep xj that the rear end is getting pretty low and takes bumps really bad. If I am not mistaken dont the rear ends have both leaf springs and shocks/coils? What is the determiner if you need new leaf springs vs can just replace the shocks/coils?

I watched a few vids about it and apparently the springs are a bit of a PITA because the bolts are often rusted in place.

Whats the easiest way to fix this, do the leafs have to come out, or any chance its just shot shocks?

exasemech

Easily answered

No, it's not the shocks although they are probably bad tooThere are no coil springs in back unless someone put in some "helper"springs... that don't help
Yes, the leaves are shot and yes they can be a pita

syncview

time to upgrade to OME

Saudade

Like he said..

If the back end is sagging, your leaf packs are worn out. I agree that your shocks are likely toast as well.

There are some "cheaper" alternatives to full replacement. Bear in mind these do not fix the problem, only coverup the symptom.

Extended shackles, "Add-a-Leaf" kits and even air shocks.

Leaf spring bolts and upper shock mounts can make you have a bad day depending on the level of rust. I would start soaking them in a good penetrating fluid right away.

Sword

Thanks for quick answer. So I should be doing some shocks too? I see people say the leafs sit flat even on new leafs, how do I know mine are bad? (Visually the tire is almost touching the wheel well).
What is the stock height, is it 2 or 4 inches?
Knowing I am going in, is it easier to just cut the bolts, or it looks like they are threaded into the body, so wouldnt cutting not help me?

Am Missing anything from this:
2 new springs
bushings
4 bolts (do I need more?)
2 sets of 2 u-bolts
rear shocks

BruceB

You may want to search You Tube with this query.... "replacing rear leaf springs jeep xj"
You will gather an incredible amount of insight and how to's.

exasemech

Unless you want to hate yourself forever DO NOT cut the front bolts. They screw into captive nuts in the "frame" and if you cut them off you make your life really difficult.
They are usually rusted and glued into the captive nut with red loctite. Heat is your friend.

Phydeaux33

Measure from top of axle tube to bottom of uniframe directly above:
Front- 6.75
Rear- 6
These are stock measurements.

Sword

Thanks for all responses. Is replacing the shackles recommended or not necessary?

Im looking at some dorman springs, those ok?

What size of bolts do I need for the replacement?

Sword

Well I got all the parts, except new shackles, are those good to repalce or no, I am confused if they are supposed to move as part of the cushion for the vehicle, if yes wouldnt these need to move easily?

Anyway, any tips on getting the two bolts out, I see the flame, hammering, pbblaster etc

exasemech

Don't know which two bolts you are talking about but if they're the front bolts on the springs:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/psa...-bolts-269464/

Sword

Thanks I read your post. What exactly is a 'spring eye'? My plan was to just heat up the bolt head, is that not sufficient? Someone mentions cutting it off 'at the eye' again what part is that?

Sword

Update and hope someone can give me some ideas.

6 hrs later I got the right side off, I did not replace the shackle but wondering if that was a bad idea. I undid the lower bolt, and took out the front bolt, bunch of fighting, but surprisingly that was the least bad part.
I ordered two of these 'https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1392897&cc=1373666&pt=10353&jsn=10 467' bolts as online its not clear what the right size is. These are the right size, but NOT the right thread/pitch. I could reuse the front bolt luckily.

Regardless, I got the old front bolt in but NOT the rear bolt. I got it through the bushing but it is not lining up correctly with the hole, it was a heck of a fight even getting it through the bushing. I saw a few vids where people slide those things in with just hand strength (lol) again is this a problem pointing to something wrong with the shackle? Any times for getting this thing centered in the hole and push it through? (And on other side should I be loosening the top of the shackle bolt?)

awg

Its not always easy to line up leaf spring bolts.

You need to jack the vehicle/axle/spring up or down, and use a prybar and tapered punch

You need several jacks to do that, and an assistant is a blessing

Sometimes they go back together quite easy, other times they fight till the bitter end

Sword

Well got the job done, about 20 hrs later. holy $... when people say this job is rough, that is for sure. Every step is a battle. Some of the hardest things were just getting the springs out, esp getting the rear shackle bolt, as its stuck and you dont have easy access. My recommendation is treat them with heat and lube, and if you can get it out of the nut, just cut that f'er off, but you need a grinder. I had a sawzall with heavy metal blades and it didn't go good at all. Also, check your bolt sizes! I ordered from rock auto and while they were nominally the same they did not fit ANYTHING, they didn't screw into the frame, nor actually even go through the leaf spring all the way. please check this, as it went in a little, but the shoulder seizes, lost tons of time to this too.

Anyone doing this in the future, some tools you really need are a heavy duty grinder/cutter (heavier duty than you think) and if you had a powerful 90degree impact racthet that would help huge too ratchet. I have seen different torque ratings, but basically the ubolts are supposed to be about 55-65, the front spring is ~115, and the rear spring/shackle ~85.