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Rear hatch glass rubber molding on late models XJ's?

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Old 04-06-2019 | 06:03 PM
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Jeepergirl's Avatar
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From: Keizer Oregon
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L (6 Cylinder)
Default Rear hatch glass rubber molding on late models XJ's?

Hiya, after washing my '99 Cherokee Sport (yes I do wash my Jeeps) I noticed the rear hatch glass peeled itself out of it's pinch-weld (Daisy is a Texas girl so I assuming the adhesive had dry-rotted) so I called a few window shops to have it reapplied but its either they don't want to do it altogether or charge an arm and a leg for it.

Will the rubber molding fit in a late model XJ?

I've heard of people using rubber molding instead of the polyurethane adhesive on Late model XJ's with success, can anyone confirm or deny this? I am trained to install either one but rubber molding is ALOT cheaper so any info is appreciated.

Last edited by Jeepergirl; 04-06-2019 at 06:12 PM.
Old 04-06-2019 | 06:21 PM
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https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/97-...z-help-250677/

may be helpful
Old 04-06-2019 | 06:29 PM
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Thank you for the heads up.
Old 04-06-2019 | 09:14 PM
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As referenced by awg in another post, I haven't tried a rope in moulding on a later model xj. Another pointed out that the later model moulding is still available from Mopar. I haven't tried to get the moulding from Mopar only from my wholesalers, PGW and Pilkington. A quick search on www.prp.com found almost every other moulding on an XJ except the hatch glass moulding.

At this point I feel like I should point out that a moulding is not required to reset the glass with urethane. The moulding is strictly cosmetic and does nothing in the retention of the glass. If cosmetics aren't an issue, you could simply clean the old urethane off the pinch weld and the glass, primer both surfaces and urethane the glass back in place.

Someone also posted that the early and late hatch glasses are significantly different in shape but I haven't verified that. I plan on researching all that on my next trip to the pull a part.

If the glass is not completely out already, you could finish removing it from the inside of the hatch with a razor knife. You would need to remove the inner panel and then simply use a razor knife to cut the urethane bond between the glass and the pinch weld. A little soapy water sprayed on the urethane surfaces will help the cut go smoother. Try to stay as close the pinch weld as possible to prevent damage to the outer moulding. I know this sounds crazy but I do it nearly everyday for body shops so they can repair body panels. After the repairs are completed to the body, I go back and urethane the glass back in.

Keep us posted on what you do, I certainly am curious about an older rope in moulding and glass in a newer model hatch.

Happy Jeepin'
TexasTaz38
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