Rear main seal
#16
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#18
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by cruiser54
7/16 socket. Use the FelPro blue gasket. easy.
#19
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 3
From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Hardest part of doing the valve cover gasket will be dettaching the CCV hoses or elbows (whichever you prefer). So here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/
I'd suggest putting on new CCV grommets while you have the valve cover off.
And yes, get a Felpro gasket or you'll be doing this job again in a year
And yes, the rear main is probably the most difficult oil leak to fix. So if you can do that, the valve cover will be a walk in the park.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/
I'd suggest putting on new CCV grommets while you have the valve cover off.
And yes, get a Felpro gasket or you'll be doing this job again in a year
And yes, the rear main is probably the most difficult oil leak to fix. So if you can do that, the valve cover will be a walk in the park.
#20
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,565
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#22
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 13
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by cruiser54
7/16 socket. Use the FelPro blue gasket. easy.
Stay away from the cheaper cork gasket. It sucks.
Actual name is FelPro Perma Dry. It's also reusable and do not use any rtv.
#23
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
From: maine
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 straight 6
I tryed bars leak rear main sealer in my old jeep and it took quite awhile longer for the oil to burn off and become low i dident have to add any oil for a month and a half.
i figured the jeep was old anyways so id try it dont notice any serious harm.
Might start harder in the winter if u used it.
Im not saying its a cure all but i only spent maybe 10 bucks at most and ive already saved on oil
i figured the jeep was old anyways so id try it dont notice any serious harm.
Might start harder in the winter if u used it.
Im not saying its a cure all but i only spent maybe 10 bucks at most and ive already saved on oil
Last edited by 4wheeldrivenewbie; 05-15-2012 at 12:50 AM.
#24
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Gas
#25
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by HCCAFan
This is how I ended up doing mine two or three times in a row.
#27
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
the little plastic thing that comes in the pack with the seal... or you can use a burger king straw... stick it in the side that your pushing... when it all gets tight the last little bit the block side will peel it back like a orange...
#28
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 1
From: Edmonton
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
the little plastic thing that comes in the pack with the seal... or you can use a burger king straw... stick it in the side that your pushing... when it all gets tight the last little bit the block side will peel it back like a orange...
#29
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
negative... there is a youtube video showing you if thatll help... its like a 1in long piece of straw split down the middle on one side... that goes on the block side as you push the seal around the crank... the video helped me a lot...