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Rear main seal

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Old 05-14-2012 | 09:37 AM
  #16  
cruiser54's Avatar
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Originally Posted by XJ Stryker
About 15 minutes and a 7/16 socket. Or is it 10mm i cant remember.

But it is one of the simplest thinks to do.
7/16 socket. Use the FelPro blue gasket. easy.
Old 05-14-2012 | 10:52 AM
  #17  
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Ok. So the rms is the hardest one ? Which I already have done
Old 05-14-2012 | 12:01 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

7/16 socket. Use the FelPro blue gasket. easy.
X2... The cork one sucks and bends wherever it was when it was in the box... Pita...
Old 05-14-2012 | 12:24 PM
  #19  
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Hardest part of doing the valve cover gasket will be dettaching the CCV hoses or elbows (whichever you prefer). So here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...ite-up-733669/

I'd suggest putting on new CCV grommets while you have the valve cover off.

And yes, get a Felpro gasket or you'll be doing this job again in a year

And yes, the rear main is probably the most difficult oil leak to fix. So if you can do that, the valve cover will be a walk in the park.
Old 05-14-2012 | 04:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by stang23456
Ok. So the rms is the hardest one ? Which I already have done
Yep. and the sad part is that it may not have been the real leak.
Old 05-14-2012 | 06:14 PM
  #21  
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or he didnt use the "straw" to install the new RMS... which just cuts it and it leaks again...
Old 05-14-2012 | 06:24 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

7/16 socket. Use the FelPro blue gasket. easy.
X2.
Stay away from the cheaper cork gasket. It sucks.

Actual name is FelPro Perma Dry. It's also reusable and do not use any rtv.
Old 05-15-2012 | 12:44 AM
  #23  
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I tryed bars leak rear main sealer in my old jeep and it took quite awhile longer for the oil to burn off and become low i dident have to add any oil for a month and a half.

i figured the jeep was old anyways so id try it dont notice any serious harm.

Might start harder in the winter if u used it.

Im not saying its a cure all but i only spent maybe 10 bucks at most and ive already saved on oil

Last edited by 4wheeldrivenewbie; 05-15-2012 at 12:50 AM.
Old 05-17-2012 | 11:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
or he didnt use the "straw" to install the new RMS... which just cuts it and it leaks again...
This is how I ended up doing mine two or three times in a row.
Old 05-18-2012 | 04:35 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by HCCAFan

This is how I ended up doing mine two or three times in a row.
Everyone does... Lol... It comea in the pack for a reason lol... My motor was on a stand when I did my first one... Watched it peel back clear as day... Then it clicked in my head and I punched it back out... Lol... Wasted $15 easily...
Old 05-18-2012 | 09:29 PM
  #26  
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What's the "straw" ?
Old 05-18-2012 | 09:33 PM
  #27  
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the little plastic thing that comes in the pack with the seal... or you can use a burger king straw... stick it in the side that your pushing... when it all gets tight the last little bit the block side will peel it back like a orange...
Old 05-18-2012 | 10:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
the little plastic thing that comes in the pack with the seal... or you can use a burger king straw... stick it in the side that your pushing... when it all gets tight the last little bit the block side will peel it back like a orange...
You lube it up and put it in the straw so the sharp edge of the block won't peel away the sealing edge or lip of the rms? Mine didn't come with a 'straw'....am I thinking right? Doing mine tomorrow morning.
Old 05-18-2012 | 10:25 PM
  #29  
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negative... there is a youtube video showing you if thatll help... its like a 1in long piece of straw split down the middle on one side... that goes on the block side as you push the seal around the crank... the video helped me a lot...
Old 05-18-2012 | 10:29 PM
  #30  
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Cool ill find it.


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