RocketMouse

99 XJ
4.0L, w/AW4
I've got what appears to be the typical start of a RMS failure... it's not that bad right now... I've looked at the procedure and it seems pretty straight forward for a DIY.... but my question is this....

I'm sitting on a basic 2" lift... so nothing crazy. So for any of ya'll out there that have done this job.... is it fairly easy to get the pan off with an XJ that is only sitting on a short lift? I'm asking because I don't want to drain the oil, and start removing the pan only to find out that I'm screwed with no easy way to get the pan out.
So any tips or tricks from those who have done this one would be greatly appreciated.

Also a reputable source for accurate torque specs / procedure during reassembly would be awesome too.

ELC_AMX

I had to lift the front end of the jeep up and let the axle hang, then drop the pan enough to get my hands in there. It's not tremendously fun, but at least you get to look up into the crankcase and do some visual inspection while you're there.

It's worth mentioning that after I did my RMS, it appeared as though the seal was still bad after driving - but what was happening at that point was my oil filter adapter was weeping oil super badly and it would get blown back to where the oil dripped from the same place the RMS oil would drip. Mine is an 89, so I don't know if later model years still have the oil filter adapter leakage issue or not.

dzywicki

I did the RMS on a non lifted XJ. With a 2" lift, you should have plenty of room. the hardest part for me was getting the pan out and then back in. It kept hitting the axle no matter which way I turned it. I finally did some more reading and came across the tip to put a jack under the axle and lift it up once you get the pan unbolted. It will move the axle forward and give the pan room to be pulled out. Same for putting it back in. I spent a few hours trying to get it out and then back in before I came across that tip. Make sure you have the right sealant to put on the carrier. I don't recall what it was, but it was a special sealant I got from the local Jeep dealer. I believe any anaerobic sealant will do, but make sure you find the proper procedure.

cruiser54

Appears, but not verified? CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS

OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS EDIT

I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.

Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.

RocketMouse

Agreed...have already checked and addressed for the other common reasons for seeing a small leak at that exact place. I was aware of those but never hurts to refresh.
She's a pretty low mileage XJ with only 106k on the clock....but at 22 1/2 years old.... anything's possible I suppose. I've taken very good care of it in the last 4 years I've owned it. But hope all will look good on the bottom end when I see it up close for the first time.

RocketMouse

I'm hoping that with a very mild 2" lift will be enough to get it out without hitting the oil pump screen.
Now just need all the correct torque specs for each set of bolts that have to come off and correct procedure for the torquing process.