Rebuild won't start...
12-10-2016, 04:23 PM
#17
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
If you changed out anything that had been working before the work, you might try changing some back. Also, hope you installed the CPS for your year after you installed the engine. People have tried leaving the CPS in, then muck it on install.
12-10-2016, 05:20 PM
#18
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Model: Cherokee
rebuild wont crank
just rebuilt my 2000 Cherokee 4.0 fuel injected. Cranked over a couple of times then won't even crank. Just turn the key and click. Starter checks okay. Turned crank by hand and it turns so not seized. Brand new battery. Why would it stop cranking?
12-11-2016, 12:55 AM
#19
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Year: 90,84
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Hi Brett, and welcome to our forum! There ARE things though..myjeepbreaksalot started his "thread". It gets goofy and confusing pretty fast with another jumping in. Trying to tie just one shoe with chopsticks is challenging enough! You jumping in will not help.
Try this. Fill out your info so on each post we can see what you have. Nobody wants to need to search to see if you posted it somewhere else. Then feel free to start a new thread. Here is the page for OEM tech> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ found here from the main page > https://www.cherokeeforum.com/. I mention that because at first I had no clue myself. They seem to have terabits on the server here, But...see below first. >>>
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
Try this. Fill out your info so on each post we can see what you have. Nobody wants to need to search to see if you posted it somewhere else. Then feel free to start a new thread. Here is the page for OEM tech> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ found here from the main page > https://www.cherokeeforum.com/. I mention that because at first I had no clue myself. They seem to have terabits on the server here, But...see below first. >>>
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-11-2016 at 01:14 AM.
12-22-2016, 04:21 PM
#21
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Idk anymore
heres what I've changed so far (excluding items from the rebuild like Pistons and the like) crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, coil pack rail, intake air temp, coolant temp, tps, iac, and map sensor. I'm still not getting spark on a few cylinders and I'm not sure why. I have no codes and the engine will only crank. I've tried to set the fuel synchronization tons of times and it still doesn't get better.
When i set the synchronization i put the first piston at tdc on the compression stroke, put the oil pump slot at 10 o clock, insert the cmps while using a small Allen wrench to keep alignment. When I go to start it it will only crank. I checked and I'm only getting what I'm assuming as proper spark on a few cylinders.
Maybe the pcm needs to be reflashed or replaced? I can't get it open to check if there are any shorts.
When i set the synchronization i put the first piston at tdc on the compression stroke, put the oil pump slot at 10 o clock, insert the cmps while using a small Allen wrench to keep alignment. When I go to start it it will only crank. I checked and I'm only getting what I'm assuming as proper spark on a few cylinders.
Maybe the pcm needs to be reflashed or replaced? I can't get it open to check if there are any shorts.